Welcome to the new home of A Chef's Tour. Bigger, bolder and tastier than ever.

Tangier

Fresh fish hisses over charcoal, warm khobz emerges from neighbourhood ovens and cumin drifts through the morning air.

Making warqa dough.
No. 433Making warqa dough.Tangier, 2025
“We visited a number of spots we have returned to in subsequent days.”

— Katherine, 2026

01  Food tours

Original food tours, curated with our local tastemakers to showcase the neighbourhood kitchens, markets and family-run eateries that define Tangier.

Tangier Tastes
Lunch Food TourNo. 001

Tangier Tastes

Tangier

US $59(NEW)

Eat Tangier at lunchtime — chorba, tangia and Spanish-inflected mezze from the medina.

4 Hours15+ Tastings
Souk Secrets
Supper Food TourNo. 002

Souk Secrets

Tangier

US $59(NEW)

Discover Tangier's Moroccan-Spanish table — chorba, tangia in urns and boubous sweet couscous.

4 Hours15+ Tastings

02  Meet the tastemakers

The local food experts who help us research, refine and lead every A Chef's Tour.

Thami Elasri

head guide

Reda Brahmi

guide

03  Field archive

Archived photographs from our tours and the Tangier food scene that tell you what the city actually tastes like.

Wood-fired khobz.
No. 622Wood-fired khobz.Tangier, 2025
Fruit-shop uncle.
No. 500Fruit-shop uncle.Tangier, 2025
Kalinté slice.
No. 892Kalinté slice.Tangier, 2025
Kasbah road.
No. 155Kasbah road.Tangier, 2025
Café Porto Rico.
No. 193Café Porto Rico.Tangier, 2025
Bissara table, khobz and olives.
No. 882Bissara table, khobz and olives.Tangier, 2025
Lemon over oyster.
No. 153Lemon over oyster.Tangier, 2025
Seafood vendor.
No. 733Seafood vendor.Tangier, 2025
Medina communal oven.
No. 651Medina communal oven.Tangier, 2025
Tangier lunch.
No. 217Tangier lunch.Tangier, 2025
Wood fired fish with potatoes.
No. 295Wood fired fish with potatoes.Tangier, 2025
Tagine into the fire.
No. 730Tagine into the fire.Tangier, 2025
Vintage coffee grinders.
No. 182Vintage coffee grinders.Tangier, 2025
Sidi Bou Abid minaret.
No. 556Sidi Bou Abid minaret.Tangier, 2025
Old-Tangier posters.
No. 818Old-Tangier posters.Tangier, 2025
Medina market.
No. 460Medina market.Tangier, 2025
Warqa dough sheets.
No. 222Warqa dough sheets.Tangier, 2025
The olive vendor.
No. 050The olive vendor.Tangier, 2025
Chebakia and Tangier pastries.
No. 884Chebakia and Tangier pastries.Tangier, 2025
Full Moroccan lunch.
No. 083Full Moroccan lunch.Tangier, 2025
Grilled sardines with peppers.
No. 645Grilled sardines with peppers.Tangier, 2025
Communal oven cook.
No. 830Communal oven cook.Tangier, 2025
Nougat du Tangier est. 1952.
No. 105Nougat du Tangier est. 1952.Tangier, 2025
Skewers on charcoal.
No. 724Skewers on charcoal.Tangier, 2025
Pouring bissara.
No. 888Pouring bissara.Tangier, 2025
Briny olives.
No. 478Briny olives.Tangier, 2025
Atlantic prawns for sale.
No. 055Atlantic prawns for sale.Tangier, 2025
Beans cooked overnight.
No. 649Beans cooked overnight.Tangier, 2025
Seafood vendor.
No. 687Seafood vendor.Tangier, 2025
Old-school bakery.
No. 443Old-school bakery.Tangier, 2025
Jben mountain cheese.
No. 014Jben mountain cheese.Tangier, 2025
Eatery interior.
No. 664Eatery interior.Tangier, 2025
Sticky chebakia.
No. 254Sticky chebakia.Tangier, 2025
Oysters on ice.
No. 258Oysters on ice.Tangier, 2025
Prepping lunch.
No. 324Prepping lunch.Tangier, 2025
House roasted coffee beans.
No. 323House roasted coffee beans.Tangier, 2025
Eatery est. 1955.
No. 859Eatery est. 1955.Tangier, 2025
Archway into the medina.
No. 121Archway into the medina.Tangier, 2025
Jben seller.
No. 190Jben seller.Tangier, 2025
Marché Central de Poisson.
No. 060Marché Central de Poisson.Tangier, 2025

Chorba fish soup, tangia slow cooked in urn under embers, boubous sweet couscous, mint tea at every moment. Tangier's cooking picked up Spanish and French inflections in the international era.

04  The pantry

  • Salted anchovies, cured Mediterranean fish for the mezze plate
  • Kefta, hand-minced spiced meat for skewers
  • Preserved lemons, salt-cured in blue Andalusi pots
  • Green olives, cured from the Rif hills
  • Mint, bushy Moroccan spearmint for the constant tea

05  In the kitchen

  • Slow-cooking tangia in urn buried in embers at the hammam furnace
  • Grilling fresh Mediterranean catch on quayside charcoal
  • Rolling briouat filo pastries with spiced fish and cheese
  • Blending Andalusian and Moroccan spice palates in one kitchen
  • Pouring atay mint tea from a height for the perfect foam

06  Eat this first

  • Tangia Tangaouia, slow-cooked beef and preserved lemon urn stew
  • Chorba, Andalusian-style fish soup with tomato and coriander
  • Kefta brochettes, cumin-heavy minced beef skewers over charcoal
  • Bocadillo, Spanish-influenced sandwich with tuna and olive
  • Chebakia, sesame-and-honey pastries eaten with mint tea
Map of Tangier

Field Guide

Our curated eating guide to Tangier. Independent spots chosen by our local tastemakers.

Coming soon

08  Stories

Dispatches from the kitchens of Tangier.

What happens inside a hammam kitchen

A morning with the cooks who feed the neighbourhood before dawn. Charcoal, dough, the smell of a bakery working its second oven.

The bread that fed the medina

Field report

The bread that fed the medina

Learning to pour mint tea

Field report

Learning to pour mint tea

09  Recipes

A collection of authentic recipes we couldn't leave behind.

More recipes
Baghrir
Recipe 317Tangier

Thousand-hole semolina pancakes

Baghrir

Soft yeasted semolina pancakes covered in a thousand tiny bubbles, cooked on a hot skillet on one side only. Morocco's spongy honey-soaked breakfast.

1 hr 30 min · Serves 6
Bocadillo Merguez
Recipe 327Tangier

Merguez sausage sandwich

Bocadillo Merguez

Spicy merguez lamb sausages grilled hard, tucked into a crusty baguette with sliced tomato, chili sauce and pickles. Tangier's Spanish-Moroccan street lunch.

30 min · Serves 4
Lobia
Recipe 313Tangier

Moroccan white bean stew

Lobia

Cannellini or white beans simmered in tomato, garlic, cumin and paprika until soupy-tender. The Moroccan winter one-pot, eaten with khobz.

1 hr 30 min · Serves 6
Briouat
Recipe 328Tangier

Filo-wrapped fried parcels

Briouat

Small triangular or cigar-shaped pastries stuffed with spiced meat, cheese or almond paste, fried crisp. Morocco's cocktail-party appetiser, sold at every souk stand.

1 hr 30 min · Serves 8
Raib
Recipe 324Tangier

Moroccan set yogurt

Raib

Sweet, thick set yogurt made from whole milk and rennet, scented with orange blossom. Morocco's oldest dessert, spooned from small clay jars.

8 hrs · Serves 6
Tajine de Poulet
Recipe 331Tangier

Chicken preserved-lemon tagine

Tajine de Poulet

Slow-cooked chicken tagine with preserved lemons, cracked green olives and a saffron-onion sauce. Morocco's Friday-lunch classic, eaten with khobz.

2 hrs · Serves 6

10  Field Notes

Quick field notes to help you get accustomed to Tangier.

The pastry maker of Tangier.
No. 582The pastry maker of Tangier.Tangier, 2025
1

Weather

Mediterranean climate softened by two seas. Mild winters (12–17°C) and warm, breezy summers (25–28°C). Spring and autumn are the best months.

2

Currency

The Moroccan dirham (MAD). Cards accepted in mid-range spots, cash in the medina and cafés. Euros also circulate near the ferry port.

3

Language

Moroccan Arabic (Darija) is spoken everywhere; Spanish and French are both widely understood. Tangier has been a crossroads for centuries. Basic English works in tourism.

4

Etiquette

Cosmopolitan and relaxed by Moroccan standards, but still modest dress in the medina. Ask before photographing people.

5

Getting around

The medina is walking-only. Petits taxis (blue) are cheap for the newer city. Ferries run daily to Spain from the port; grand taxis link to Chefchaouen and Tetouan.

6

Prayer

Five calls to prayer daily. The medina's mosques sit close together so the call rolls across the quarter. Friday afternoons briefly slow the city.