Welcome to the new home of A Chef's Tour. Bigger, bolder and tastier than ever.

Chiang Mai

Pots of khao soi bubble gently, pork skewers hiss over charcoal and fragrant herbs are torn fresh into fiery northern curries.

Clay pot roasted pork.
No. 659Clay pot roasted pork.Chiang Mai, 2019
“ It was genuinely a surreal, beautiful, intimate, and delicious experience.”

— Jeremy, 2026

01  Food tours

Original food tours, curated with our local tastemakers to showcase the neighbourhood kitchens, markets and family-run eateries that define Chiang Mai.

Lanna Kingdom
Lunch Food TourNo. 001

Lanna Kingdom

Chiang Mai

US $59(NEW)

Eat Chiang Mai at lunchtime — khao soi, sai ua and nam prik ong.

4 Hours15+ Tastings
Northern Flavours
Supper Food TourNo. 002

Northern Flavours

Chiang Mai

US $59(NEW)

Discover northern Thai — khao soi, sai ua herbal sausage and sticky rice from bamboo.

4 Hours15+ Tastings

02  Meet the tastemakers

The local food experts who help us research, refine and lead every A Chef's Tour.

Waraporn Tipsribud

head guide

Aim

guide

Laphatrada Chaikaewmay

guide

Noi

guide

Montree

guide

03  Field archive

Archived photographs from our tours and the Chiang Mai food scene that tell you what the city actually tastes like.

Crisp pork belly.
No. 653Crisp pork belly.Chiang Mai , 2019
Roasting in clay pots.
No. 023Roasting in clay pots.Chiang Mai , 2019
Spatchcocked gai yang.
No. 982Spatchcocked gai yang.Chiang Mai, 2019
Gaeng hang lae curry.
No. 081Gaeng hang lae curry.Chiang Mai, 2019
Slow-cooked khao kha moo.
No. 831Slow-cooked khao kha moo.Chang Puak Market, 2019
Evening market.
No. 718Evening market.Chang Puak Market, 2019
Vendor at work.
No. 844Vendor at work.Chiang Mai, 2019
Glistening pomelo.
No. 909Glistening pomelo.Siri Wattana Market, 2019
Pounded nam prik.
No. 389Pounded nam prik.Siri Wattana Market, 2019
Trays of Northern gaeng.
No. 635Trays of Northern gaeng.Siri Wattana Market, 2019
Night markets.
No. 073Night markets.Chiang Mai, 2019
Fermented rice sai krok.
No. 912Fermented rice sai krok.Sanpakhoi Market, 2019
Grilling sai oua sausage.
No. 541Grilling sai oua sausage.Sanpakhoi Market, 2019
Herbal Northern sausage.
No. 605Herbal Northern sausage.Sanpakhoi Market, 2019
Coconut khanom krok.
No. 132Coconut khanom krok.Sanpakhoi Market, 2019
Almost ready.
No. 426Almost ready.
Night time is the right time.
No. 500Night time is the right time.Sanpakhoi Market, 2019
Kanom jeen rice noodles.
No. 078Kanom jeen rice noodles.Sanpakhoi Market, 2019
A restaurant shrine.
No. 422A restaurant shrine.Chiang Mai, 2019
Steamed dumplings.
No. 491Steamed dumplings.Siri Wattana Market, 2019
Sticky rice and larb.
No. 169Sticky rice and larb.Chiang Mai, 2019
Leaf wrapped.
No. 453Leaf wrapped.Siri Wattana Market, 2019
End of the night.
No. 076End of the night.Chiang Mai, 2019
Grilled over charcoal.
No. 112Grilled over charcoal.Chiang Mai, 2019
Crisp khanom buang.
No. 452Crisp khanom buang.Chiang Mai, 2019
Land of a thousand temples.
No. 602Land of a thousand temples.Chiang Mai, 2019
Dark soy khao khao moo.
No. 286Dark soy khao khao moo.Chang Puak Market, 2019
Hanging ducks.
No. 824Hanging ducks.Chang Puak Market, 2019
Duck ban mee with greens.
No. 414Duck ban mee with greens.Chiang Mai, 2019
Roasting meats.
No. 780Roasting meats.Chiang Mai, 2019

Khao soi curry noodles crowned with crispy shallots, sai ua herbal sausage, nam prik ong tomato dip, sticky rice from bamboo baskets. Northern Thai cooks with more ferment and less chilli than Bangkok.

04  The pantry

  • Nam prik, table chilli pastes that anchor every northern meal
  • Sticky rice, glutinous grain steamed in bamboo baskets
  • Sai ua, herbal Chiang Mai sausage packed with lemongrass and galangal
  • Makhwaen, prickly-ash berries that give northern curries their citrus lift
  • Thua nao, fermented soybean discs used like miso in the hills

05  In the kitchen

  • Grilling meats and river fish over long banana-leaf smoke
  • Fermenting soybeans into thua nao discs for the pantry
  • Pounding nam prik from grilled shallots, garlic and chillies
  • Simmering khao soi curry broth with hand-cracked spices
  • Serving rice from woven baskets to be eaten by hand

06  Eat this first

  • Khao soi, curry noodles crowned with crispy shallots and pickled mustard greens
  • Sai ua, herbal sausage grilled over charcoal
  • Nam prik ong, tomato and pork dip eaten with raw vegetables
  • Kanom jeen nam ngiaw, rice noodles in a rich pork and tomato broth
  • Gaeng hang lay, slow-braised Burmese-influenced pork belly curry
Map of Chiang Mai

Field Guide

Our curated eating guide to Chiang Mai. Independent spots chosen by our local tastemakers.

Coming soon

08  Stories

Dispatches from the kitchens of Chiang Mai.

What happens inside a hammam kitchen

A morning with the cooks who feed the neighbourhood before dawn. Charcoal, dough, the smell of a bakery working its second oven.

The bread that fed the medina

Field report

The bread that fed the medina

Learning to pour mint tea

Field report

Learning to pour mint tea

09  Recipes

A collection of authentic recipes we couldn't leave behind.

More recipes
Ma'quda Sandwich
Recipe 477Chiang Mai

Thai Muslim potato-egg sandwich

Ma'quda Sandwich

A thick potato-and-egg omelette sandwiched inside soft roti or crusty bread with chili sauce. Bangkok's Muslim-quarter breakfast snack.

45 min · Serves 4
Gai Yang
Recipe 473Chiang Mai

Isaan grilled chicken

Gai Yang

Butterflied chicken marinated in garlic, coriander root, fish sauce and palm sugar, then grilled hard over charcoal. Isaan's roadside classic, served with sticky rice.

4 hrs · Serves 4
Guay Teow Neua
Recipe 474Chiang Mai

Thai beef noodle soup

Guay Teow Neua

Clear beef broth over rice noodles with slow-braised beef shin, meatballs, bean sprouts and fresh coriander. Bangkok's iconic noodle lunch.

3 hrs · Serves 6
Namkhaeng Sai
Recipe 437Chiang Mai

Thai shaved ice dessert

Namkhaeng Sai

A pile of shaved ice drenched in sweetened coconut cream, topped with a customer-chosen selection of jelly, tapioca pearls, sweetened beans and jackfruit. Bangkok's summertime cooler.

45 min · Serves 4
Porpia Sod
Recipe 475Chiang Mai

Thai fresh spring rolls

Porpia Sod

Soft rice paper rolls filled with lettuce, coriander, cooked prawn, glass noodles and sweet Chinese sausage, dipped in a tangy plum-tamarind sauce. Bangkok's lightest starter.

1 hr · Serves 6
Som Tum Khao Pod
Recipe 466Chiang Mai

Corn papaya salad

Som Tum Khao Pod

Fresh corn kernels pounded with garlic, chili, palm sugar and lime instead of green papaya — a modern Bangkok variation of the classical som tum.

20 min · Serves 4

10  Field Notes

Quick field notes to help you get accustomed to Chiang Mai.

Making khanom buang.
No. 992Making khanom buang.Siri Wattana Market, 2022
1

Weather

Cooler than the south year-round. The November–February dry season is pleasant (20–28°C), March–April is hot and smoky (crop burning), and June–October is warm and wet.

2

Currency

The Thai baht (THB). Cash for markets, tuk-tuks, and street food; cards in restaurants and cafés. ATMs are common in the old town.

3

Language

Thai is universal. Northern Thai (kham mueang) is heard among older locals. English works well in the old town and Nimman.

4

Etiquette

Cover shoulders and knees in temples; the same rules as elsewhere in Thailand. The old-town temples are active. Be quiet and respectful during ceremonies.

5

Getting around

The old town is compact and walkable. Songthaews (red shared trucks) cover the wider city cheaply. Grab works, renting a scooter is common but only if you're licensed and confident.

6

Prayer

Deeply Buddhist. Over 300 temples in the city. Monks collect alms at dawn, and Doi Suthep on the hill is the spiritual heart. Dress modestly for temple visits.