Destination
Krabi
The story
Southern kaeng som (also called kaeng leung in the deep south) is one of Thailand's fiercest and most-defining regional curries: a bright yellow-orange broth built on a paste of fresh chilies, shallots, garlic, turmeric and shrimp paste, cooked with tamarind for aggressive sourness and packed with fish (typically snakehead or catfish, but any firm white fish works) and vegetables (bamboo shoot, papaya, morning glory, long bean). No coconut milk — this is the specifically dry, hot, sour southern-Thai curry that shows up on every southern Thai restaurant menu. Sold at every southern Thai food counter in Bangkok and every restaurant in Phuket, Krabi and Hat Yai; a fierce dish that non-Southerners often need to be introduced to gently.
Method
Pound all paste ingredients in a mortar into a smooth paste. Or blend in a food processor with a splash of water.
Warm oil in a heavy pot. Fry paste 3 minutes until fragrant.
Pour in water and tamarind. Bring to a simmer.
Add fish sauce and palm sugar. Taste — should be sharp, sour, salty, mildly sweet, fierce with chili.
Add bamboo shoot, papaya (or daikon) and long beans. Simmer 5 minutes.
Add fish pieces and tomato. Simmer 5 more minutes until fish is just cooked.
In the last 60 seconds, add morning glory. Simmer until just wilted.
Ladle into bowls. Serve with jasmine rice, lime wedges and extra chili on the side. Best with a plate of raw vegetables and a small amount of nam pla prik.
Tips
- No coconut milk. Southern kaeng som is dry — no coconut. This distinguishes it from central Thai curries.
- Fierce sourness. Tamarind should be aggressive. Adjust to your palate but don't underdo it.
- Fresh turmeric if possible. Ground works but fresh gives a brighter flavour.
- Fierce heat. The classical southern version is aggressively spicy. Reduce chilies for milder version.
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