Destination
Koh Samui
The story
Ma'quda sandwich is a specifically Bangkok Muslim-Thai preparation — a legacy of the Persian-Arab trade communities that shaped Bangkok's Muslim quarters (Ban Krua, Nana, around the Golden Mount). The dish is a thick potato-and-egg omelette (ma'quda — from the Arabic word for a set custard), studded with onion, garlic, coriander and turmeric, cooked in a heavy pan until firm all through and golden on both sides. Cut into thick wedges and served as the filling for a sandwich — either between two slices of soft roti (Thai-Muslim flatbread) or inside a crusty bread roll with a scatter of coriander, sliced onion and a squeeze of lime. A small dish of Thai chili sauce or sweet chili is served on the side. Sold at every Bangkok Muslim quarter breakfast counter.
Method
Warm 3 tbsp oil in a heavy wide non-stick pan (about 22cm) over medium heat. Cook onion 4 minutes until soft. Add grated potato and garlic. Cook 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until potato is soft and lightly golden.
Add turmeric, cumin, salt and pepper. Toss 60 seconds to coat.
In a bowl, whisk eggs with chopped coriander and parsley.
Pour the egg mixture evenly over the potato in the pan. Reduce heat to low. Cover with a lid.
Cook 12 to 15 minutes over low heat until the top is set and the bottom is deep golden.
Slide the omelette onto a large flat plate. Invert the pan over the plate; flip the plate so the omelette lands in the pan uncooked-side down. Add remaining 1 tbsp oil. Cook another 5 minutes until the second side is set and golden.
Slide the finished ma'quda onto a chopping board. Cut into 4 or 8 wedges.
Split each roti or roll. Spread with a smear of sweet chili sauce (and mayo if using). Insert a wedge of ma'quda. Top with sliced onion, cucumber and coriander. Squeeze lime. Serve immediately.
Tips
- Slow-set the omelette. This is the difference between a scrambled mess and a proper ma'quda. Medium-low heat, covered, 12 to 15 minutes.
- Flip with a plate. The classical technique: slide onto a plate, invert the pan on top, flip. Practice on the first one — you'll master it by the second.
- Turmeric for colour and flavour. This is the Persian-Arab-Muslim signature. Do not skip.
- Serve warm. Cold ma'quda is edible but the classical sandwich is warm from the pan.
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