Destination
Koh Samui
The story
Khao soi is Chiang Mai's most-loved noodle dish and one of Thailand's most-photographed foods: soft egg noodles in a rich coconut-curry broth built on a specifically Lanna curry paste (dried chilies, shallots, garlic, coriander root, ginger, turmeric, curry powder and Chinese black cardamom), served with braised chicken (bone-in thighs) or beef, and topped with a nest of crispy deep-fried egg noodles for textural contrast. Served with three mandatory side dishes: pickled mustard greens (pak dong), thin-sliced shallots, and lime wedges — the eater squeezes and stirs these into the broth to build the classical five-flavour balance. Sold at every Chiang Mai neighbourhood eatery; Khao Soi Khun Yai and Khao Soi Nimman are two of the most-visited addresses.
Method
Make from scratch (pound in mortar 20 minutes) or measure 5 tbsp store-bought khao soi paste.
In a heavy pot, warm 300ml coconut cream over medium heat. Cook 5 minutes until reduced, thickened and split (oil separating).
Add the khao soi paste. Fry 5 minutes until deep red-orange and fragrant.
Add chicken legs. Toss to coat. Cook 3 minutes to seal.
Pour in coconut milk, chicken stock, fish sauce, palm sugar, dark soy and extra curry powder. Bring to a simmer.
Simmer partially covered 40 to 50 minutes over low heat until chicken is falling off the bone. Taste and adjust seasoning.
Heat 500ml oil to 175C. Deep-fry the reserved 80g of raw egg noodles in small handfuls for 30 to 60 seconds until deep gold and puffed. Drain on paper.
Boil the fresh egg noodles for 2 minutes. Drain and divide between 4 large deep bowls. Top each with a chicken leg. Ladle hot broth generously over. Top with a nest of crispy fried noodles, chopped pickled mustard, sliced shallots, spring onions and coriander. Serve immediately with lime wedges and chili powder on the side. Diners squeeze lime, stir in pickle and shallots, and add chili to taste.
Tips
- Both cooked and fried noodles. This is the classical Lanna textural signature. Fried noodles on top, soft noodles below. Skipping the fried topping loses the identity.
- Pickled mustard greens on the side, not stirred in. Every eater adjusts to their own preference. Providing them pre-mixed ruins the interactive experience.
- Bone-in chicken. The bone gives depth to the broth and the classical Lanna presentation is a whole braised chicken leg standing up in the bowl.
- Chinese black cardamom. This specific spice (not the green Indian variety) is a key part of the khao soi paste. Toast whole, remove seeds. Any Thai or Chinese grocer stocks it.
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