Destination
Ayutthaya
The story
Khao kha moo is Bangkok's most-loved Chinese-Thai comfort dish and one of the country's most-eaten weekday lunches: pork leg (both meat and skin) slow-braised in a soy-and-five-spice master stock for 3 hours until every fibre is silky and the skin has turned to a rich, gelatinous, deeply-flavoured jelly. Sliced over jasmine rice with a spoon of the braising sauce, topped with a soy-braised egg, blanched Chinese cabbage or pak gard (pickled mustard greens), a drizzle of fresh coriander and — the classical Bangkok topping — a small dish of chili-vinegar (fresh green chili + garlic + vinegar) for eaters to spoon in. Sold at every Bangkok street cart in Chinatown, at the specialised khao kha moo stalls at Chatuchak Market, and — most famously — at the "cowboy hat" khao kha moo lady at Chang Phueak Gate in Chiang Mai, who has appeared on Netflix's Street Food.
Method
Bring a pot of water to a boil with the salt. Add pork chunks and blanch 3 minutes to clean impurities. Drain and rinse briefly.
In a large heavy pot, combine all master stock ingredients. Bring to a simmer, cook 15 minutes to develop flavours.
Add blanched pork to the master stock. Bring back to a simmer. Cook covered on lowest heat 2.5 to 3 hours until pork is falling-off-the-bone tender and skin is silky.
Add hard-boiled peeled eggs in the last 30 minutes so they colour deeply.
Blend green chilies, garlic, vinegar, lime, salt and sugar into a rough salsa. Taste and adjust.
Lift pork out of the stock. Slice pork meat into thick pieces; slice the skin into strips. Reserve the master stock — reduce by half for a saucier version.
Divide warm jasmine rice between 6 shallow bowls. Top with sliced pork meat + skin + a halved soy egg. Spoon reduced master stock generously over. Add a bit of blanched cabbage or pickled mustard on the side.
Scatter with fried garlic, coriander and spring onion. Serve immediately with a small dish of chili-vinegar on the side. Eaters spoon chili-vinegar to taste.
Tips
- Skin on. The gelatinous silky skin is half the dish. Skinless pork leg gives you a lesser version.
- Long braise. Three hours minimum. Under-braised is chewy; properly braised is silky.
- Save the master stock. Strain, cool, refrigerate up to a week or freeze. Reuse for next batch — the flavour deepens with age.
- Chili-vinegar is essential. Do not serve without. The sharp acid cuts the richness of the pork.
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