Destination
Pattaya
The story
Khao mok is Thailand's version of biryani — a turmeric-yellow rice dish that arrived in Thailand with the Muslim Indian and Persian trade communities of the 17th-19th centuries and became a defining dish of Bangkok's Muslim neighbourhoods. Long-grain rice is cooked with chicken (or beef or goat), cardamom, cinnamon, cumin and coriander in ghee or chicken fat until every grain is stained yellow with turmeric and infused with spice. Served with a scatter of crispy fried shallots and a small dish of a specifically Thai-Muslim dipping sauce called "nam jim ajad" — a sweet-sour-spicy blend of green chili, garlic, lime and sugar. Sold at every Bangkok Muslim quarter counter (Ban Krua, Nana, and around the Golden Mount); the classical Sunday-lunch dish.
Method
Combine yogurt, turmeric, curry powder, coriander, cumin, cardamom, cinnamon, salt, garlic and ginger. Rub all over the chicken. Marinate 30 minutes to 2 hours.
Blend green chilies, garlic, sugar, vinegar, lime juice, salt and water into a smooth sauce. Adjust for balance — should be sharp, sweet, salty and mildly spicy.
Fry sliced shallots in 3 tbsp neutral oil until deep gold and crispy (about 4 minutes). Drain on paper.
Warm ghee in a large heavy pot. Brown marinated chicken pieces in batches, 6 minutes total. Reserve.
In the same pot, cook sliced onions 6 minutes until soft and golden. Add cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, star anise and extra turmeric. Toast 60 seconds.
Add drained basmati rice. Toss to coat in oil and spices. Pour in chicken stock and salt. Bring to a simmer.
Return browned chicken and any marinade to the pot. Cover tightly and cook over the lowest heat 25 minutes without lifting the lid.
Off the heat, rest 10 more minutes covered. Fluff with a fork. Serve on plates with a piece of chicken, topped with fried shallots. Serve nam jim ajad, cucumber slices, coriander and lime wedges on the side.
Tips
- Basmati, not jasmine. Long-grain basmati is the classical biryani rice. Jasmine turns clumpy in this cook.
- Nam jim ajad is essential. The Thai green-chili sauce is what makes khao mok specifically Thai-Muslim. Do not skip.
- Do not lift the lid. The rice cooks by trapped steam. Every peek releases the moisture and undercooks the rice.
- Fried shallots on top. This is the classical Thai-Muslim finish. Do not substitute raw sliced shallots — the fried are crunchy and sweet.
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