Destination
Ayutthaya
The story
Pa tong ko is Thailand's version of Chinese youtiao (fried dough sticks) — long paired sticks of fried yeasted dough, deep-fried until deep golden and slightly puffed, sold at every Bangkok dawn-market food stall from 5am to 10am. The Thai difference from the Chinese version is in the serving: pa tong ko is dipped into hot sangkhaya custard (a sweet coconut-egg-pandan dip) or drizzled with sweetened condensed milk, whereas Chinese youtiao is dipped in hot soy milk or eaten with congee. The classical Bangkok breakfast pairing is pa tong ko + hot cha yen (Thai iced tea) or coffee. Every Bangkok neighbourhood has multiple dawn food stalls with pa tong ko carts.
Method
In a bowl, whisk flour, cornstarch, yeast, baking powder, baking soda, salt and sugar. Add egg, warm milk and oil. Mix and knead 8 minutes until smooth and elastic. Rest 60 minutes covered.
In a saucepan, warm coconut cream, palm sugar and pandan until sugar dissolves. Whisk egg yolks in a bowl. Slowly pour warm coconut into yolks while whisking. Return to pan; cook 5 minutes stirring until thickened to a custard. Off the heat, add salt. Cover and keep warm.
Punch down dough. Divide in half. Roll each half into a thin rectangle 5mm thick. Cut into strips 2cm wide and 12cm long. You should have 24 strips.
Lay 2 strips on top of each other. Press a bamboo skewer or chopstick down the middle lengthways so the strips stick together in the centre but keep their identity as pairs. Rest 15 minutes.
Warm oil in a deep heavy pot to 180C.
Working with 3 or 4 paired strips at a time, drop into the hot oil. They'll puff up and float within 5 seconds. Fry 90 seconds, turning constantly with chopsticks, until deep golden and puffed.
Lift onto a wire rack.
Serve immediately, with warm sangkhaya in small bowls for dipping (or drizzle with sweetened condensed milk). Best eaten with hot coffee. Fresh from the fryer is the classical way.
Tips
- Baking soda + baking powder + yeast. This specific combination is what gives pa tong ko its distinctive puffy-crackly texture. Do not skip either.
- 180C oil, fast fry. High heat is essential for the puff.
- Serve immediately. Pa tong ko softens within 20 minutes.
- Sangkhaya is the classical dip. Sweetened condensed milk is the shortcut alternative.
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