Welcome to the new home of A Chef's Tour. Bigger, bolder and tastier than ever.

Chiang Rai

Sticky rice steams inside bamboo baskets, nam prik relishes are pounded fresh in heavy mortars and smoke curls from roadside charcoal grills.

Salting Atlantic sardines
No. 042Salting Atlantic sardinesChiang Rai, 2026, 5.20pm

01  Food tours

Original food tours, curated with our local tastemakers to showcase the neighbourhood kitchens, markets and family-run eateries that define Chiang Rai.

No tours listed for Chiang Rai yet — check back soon.

03  Field archive

Archived photographs from our tours and the Chiang Rai food scene that tell you what the city actually tastes like.

Salting Atlantic sardines
No. 042Salting Atlantic sardinesBab Doukkala, 2026
Mint tea, poured slowly
No. 118Mint tea, poured slowlyDjemaa el-Fnaa, 2025
Charcoal smoke and tagine
No. 273Charcoal smoke and tagineMellah, 2024
Spice market, dusk
No. 057Spice market, duskRahba Kedima, 2026
Slow-cooked lamb, seven hours
No. 199Slow-cooked lamb, seven hoursRiad Zitoun, 2025
The souk before opening
No. 314The souk before openingSouk Semmarine, 2024
Flatbreads, still warm
No. 086Flatbreads, still warmBab Doukkala, 2025
Cumin and clay
No. 245Cumin and clayKasbah, 2026
Kitchen off the medina
No. 167Kitchen off the medinaDerb Dabachi, 2024
Riad courtyard, morning prep
No. 093Riad courtyard, morning prepSidi Mimoun, 2025

Kanom jeen nam ngiaw noodle soup, larb tossed with roasted rice powder, jinsom mushroom soup, sticky rice at every meal. Chiang Rai leans deeper into the Lanna kitchen than its bigger sister.

04  The pantry

  • Kaeng khae herbs, wild greens picked from the northern forests
  • Sticky rice, glutinous grain from the terraced hills
  • Nam pu, fermented rice-field crab paste
  • Prik lab, roasted-chilli powder blended with warming spices
  • Bamboo shoots, fresh and pickled from the surrounding forests

05  In the kitchen

  • Roasting rice grains and grinding them into khao khua powder
  • Fermenting crab and shrimp into pungent northern seasoning pastes
  • Grilling river fish wrapped in banana leaf over open embers
  • Preparing lab with fresh raw beef and a dozen aromatics
  • Eating everything with sticky rice pinched from a woven basket

06  Eat this first

  • Lab, minced meat salad tossed with roasted rice powder and mint
  • Jinsom, wild mushroom soup from the northern forests
  • Kanom jeen nam ngiaw, rice noodles in a spiced pork broth
  • Nam prik num, roasted green chilli dip with sticky rice
  • Kaeng khae, herbal country curry with jungle greens
Map of Chiang Rai

Field Guide

Our curated eating guide to Chiang Rai. Independent spots chosen by our local tastemakers.

Coming soon

08  Stories

Dispatches from the kitchens of Chiang Rai.

What happens inside a hammam kitchen

A morning with the cooks who feed the neighbourhood before dawn. Charcoal, dough, the smell of a bakery working its second oven.

The bread that fed the medina

Field report

The bread that fed the medina

Learning to pour mint tea

Field report

Learning to pour mint tea

09  Recipes

A collection of authentic recipes we couldn't leave behind.

More recipes
Ma'quda Sandwich
Recipe 477Chiang Rai

Thai Muslim potato-egg sandwich

Ma'quda Sandwich

A thick potato-and-egg omelette sandwiched inside soft roti or crusty bread with chili sauce. Bangkok's Muslim-quarter breakfast snack.

45 min · Serves 4
Gai Yang
Recipe 473Chiang Rai

Isaan grilled chicken

Gai Yang

Butterflied chicken marinated in garlic, coriander root, fish sauce and palm sugar, then grilled hard over charcoal. Isaan's roadside classic, served with sticky rice.

4 hrs · Serves 4
Guay Teow Neua
Recipe 474Chiang Rai

Thai beef noodle soup

Guay Teow Neua

Clear beef broth over rice noodles with slow-braised beef shin, meatballs, bean sprouts and fresh coriander. Bangkok's iconic noodle lunch.

3 hrs · Serves 6
Namkhaeng Sai
Recipe 437Chiang Rai

Thai shaved ice dessert

Namkhaeng Sai

A pile of shaved ice drenched in sweetened coconut cream, topped with a customer-chosen selection of jelly, tapioca pearls, sweetened beans and jackfruit. Bangkok's summertime cooler.

45 min · Serves 4
Porpia Sod
Recipe 475Chiang Rai

Thai fresh spring rolls

Porpia Sod

Soft rice paper rolls filled with lettuce, coriander, cooked prawn, glass noodles and sweet Chinese sausage, dipped in a tangy plum-tamarind sauce. Bangkok's lightest starter.

1 hr · Serves 6
Som Tum Khao Pod
Recipe 466Chiang Rai

Corn papaya salad

Som Tum Khao Pod

Fresh corn kernels pounded with garlic, chili, palm sugar and lime instead of green papaya — a modern Bangkok variation of the classical som tum.

20 min · Serves 4

10  Field Notes

Quick field notes to help you get accustomed to Chiang Rai.

Field notes
No. 189Carving roasted mechoui lambMedina
1

Weather

Similar to Chiang Mai but slightly cooler — November–February is cool and pleasant, March–April is hot and smoky, June–October is warm and rainy.

2

Currency

The Thai baht (THB); cash for markets, songthaews, and street food; cards in mid-range restaurants and hotels.

3

Language

Thai and Northern Thai; some hill-tribe languages heard in the surrounding villages. English coverage is thinner than Chiang Mai — a translation app helps.

4

Etiquette

Cover shoulders and knees in the White Temple (Wat Rong Khun) and other Buddhist sites — the White Temple is strict about dress code.

5

Getting around

The town is small and walkable. Songthaews cover the wider area cheaply; scooter or tuk-tuk hire is the easiest way to reach the temples and the Golden Triangle.

6

Prayer

Deeply Buddhist, with Wat Rong Khun (White Temple), Wat Rong Suea Ten (Blue Temple), and Wat Huay Pla Kang (White Big Buddha) all major spiritual sites. Dress modestly.