01 Food tours
Original food tours, curated with our local tastemakers to showcase the neighbourhood kitchens, markets and family-run eateries that define Ayutthaya.
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Boat noodles in dark broth, roti sai mai candy floss, kung pao river prawns, palace style curries. Ayutthaya still cooks the old Siamese capital's table.
04 The pantry
- River prawns, huge freshwater specimens from the Chao Phraya
- Palm sugar, unrefined coconut sugar from central Thai groves
- Coconut cream, first-press cream pressed from grated flesh
- Fresh basil, holy, sweet and lemon varieties all used liberally
- Roti sai mai, thread candy floss folded into thin flatbreads
05 In the kitchen
- Grilling river prawns over glowing charcoal in the shell
- Simmering kuay teow reua boat noodle broth with spice bags
- Reducing palace curries with hand-cracked spice and coconut cream
- Spinning sugar into fine threads for roti sai mai
- Cooking food from tiny riverbank boats to serve on the water
06 Eat this first
- Kuay teow reua, boat noodles in dark broth thick with offal
- Goong pao, giant river prawns grilled in the shell over charcoal
- Roti sai mai, candy floss wrapped in thin pandan-scented flatbreads
- Gaeng som, sour orange curry with tamarind and freshwater fish
- Kanom bueang, crisp Thai tacos filled with sweet or savoury toppings
What happens inside a hammam kitchen
A morning with the cooks who feed the neighbourhood before dawn. Charcoal, dough, the smell of a bakery working its second oven.
09 Recipes
A collection of authentic recipes we couldn't leave behind.
A thick potato-and-egg omelette sandwiched inside soft roti or crusty bread with chili sauce. Bangkok's Muslim-quarter breakfast snack.
Butterflied chicken marinated in garlic, coriander root, fish sauce and palm sugar, then grilled hard over charcoal. Isaan's roadside classic, served with sticky rice.
Clear beef broth over rice noodles with slow-braised beef shin, meatballs, bean sprouts and fresh coriander. Bangkok's iconic noodle lunch.
A pile of shaved ice drenched in sweetened coconut cream, topped with a customer-chosen selection of jelly, tapioca pearls, sweetened beans and jackfruit. Bangkok's summertime cooler.
Soft rice paper rolls filled with lettuce, coriander, cooked prawn, glass noodles and sweet Chinese sausage, dipped in a tangy plum-tamarind sauce. Bangkok's lightest starter.
Fresh corn kernels pounded with garlic, chili, palm sugar and lime instead of green papaya — a modern Bangkok variation of the classical som tum.
10 Field Notes
Quick field notes to help you get accustomed to Ayutthaya.
Weather
Tropical. Hot and humid year-round (28–35°C). The cool, dry season (November–February) is by far the best time to cycle the ruins.
Currency
The Thai baht (THB); cash is standard for tuk-tuks, street food, and market stalls; cards for hotels and some restaurants.
Language
Thai is universal; basic English works at guesthouses and tourist sights. A wai (palms together, slight bow) as a greeting goes a long way.
Etiquette
Cover shoulders and knees when entering the temples. Sarongs are usually available at the gate. Never climb on Buddha images or point your feet at one.
Getting around
The ruins are spread out. Hire a bicycle for the day or a tuk-tuk driver by the hour. Trains from Bangkok run several times a day and take about 90 minutes.
Prayer
Predominantly Theravada Buddhist. Monks collect alms at dawn, and evening chanting drifts from the temples. Dress modestly and remove shoes at temple thresholds.