Welcome to the new home of A Chef's Tour. Bigger, bolder and tastier than ever.

Hanoi

Bowls of broth simmer through the night, herbs are gathered by the handful and smoke rises from charcoal grills before dawn.

Vintage eatery.
No. 370Vintage eatery.Hanoi, 2025
“If you're looking for an authentic local food experience and want to discover places you would never find on your own, this tour is an absolute must.”

— Awtiger, 2026

01  Food tours

Original food tours, curated with our local tastemakers to showcase the neighbourhood kitchens, markets and family-run eateries that define Hanoi.

Hungry Hanoi
Lunch Food TourNo. 001

Hungry Hanoi

Hanoi

US $45(NEW)

Explore Hanoi with a chef — phở, bún chả over charcoal and chả cá tableside.

4 Hours15+ Tastings
Hanoi Dusk
Supper Food TourNo. 002

Hanoi Dusk

Hanoi

US $45(NEW)

Discover northern Vietnamese restraint — phở, bún chả, chả cá with dill and egg coffee.

4 Hours15+ Tastings

02  Meet the tastemakers

The local food experts who help us research, refine and lead every A Chef's Tour.

Ly Bui

head guide

Huong Tu Nguyen

guide

Thanh Tung Trinh

guide

03  Field archive

Archived photographs from our tours and the Hanoi food scene that tell you what the city actually tastes like.

Bún chả set.
No. 258Bún chả set.Hanoi, 2025
Alley bún stall.
No. 496Alley bún stall.Hanoi, 2025
Nước mía hàng diếu.
No. 815Nước mía hàng diếu.Hanoi, 2025
Chili and lime vendor.
No. 282Chili and lime vendor.Hanoi, 2025
Phở bò, quẩy.
No. 198Phở bò, quẩy.Hanoi, 2025
Family altar.
No. 941Family altar.Hanoi, 2025
Bánh gối.
No. 968Bánh gối.Hanoi, 2025
Sugarcane press.
No. 445Sugarcane press.Hanoi, 2025
Generation's past.
No. 231Generation's past.Hanoi, 2025
Lantern-lit shopfront.
No. 243Lantern-lit shopfront.Hanoi, 2025
Phở tái.
No. 171Phở tái.Hanoi, 2025
Nhà thờ Lớn.
No. 661Nhà thờ Lớn.Hanoi, 2025
Thuốc lào, wild tobacco.
No. 613Thuốc lào, wild tobacco.Hanoi, 2025
Old Quarter café.
No. 439Old Quarter café.Hanoi, 2025
Phở kitchen.
No. 848Phở kitchen.Hanoi, 2025
Streetside kitchen.
No. 673Streetside kitchen.Hanoi, 2025
Đậu phụ and bia hơi.
No. 989Đậu phụ and bia hơi.Hanoi, 2025
Café gallery wall.
No. 935Café gallery wall.Hanoi, 2025
Hoa quả dầm.
No. 408Hoa quả dầm.Hanoi, 2025
Bia hơi table.
No. 728Bia hơi table.Hanoi, 2025
Bún chả dắc kim.
No. 283Bún chả dắc kim.Hanoi, 2025
Bamboo vendor.
No. 831Bamboo vendor.Hanoi, 2025
Bún đậu stall.
No. 134Bún đậu stall.Hanoi, 2025
Cầu Thê Húc light at night.
No. 440Cầu Thê Húc light at night.Hanoi, 2025
Ô Quan Chưởng.
No. 153Ô Quan Chưởng.Hanoi, 2025
Bún chả with herbs.
No. 676Bún chả with herbs.Hanoi, 2025
Quyết tử monument.
No. 337Quyết tử monument.Hanoi, 2025
Bánh cuốn maker.
No. 742Bánh cuốn maker.Hanoi, 2025
Đền Ngọc Sơn.
No. 827Đền Ngọc Sơn.Hanoi, 2025
Streetside lunch tray.
No. 057Streetside lunch tray.Hanoi, 2025
Bánh xèo, bánh khọt.
No. 680Bánh xèo, bánh khọt.Hanoi, 2025
Chinese-Vietnamese shrine.
No. 851Chinese-Vietnamese shrine.Hanoi, 2025
Hotpot with herbs.
No. 683Hotpot with herbs.Hanoi, 2025
Café wall art.
No. 273Café wall art.Hanoi, 2025
Frying bánh gối.
No. 161Frying bánh gối.Hanoi, 2025
Ancestor portraits.
No. 016Ancestor portraits.Hanoi, 2025
Chè bowl.
No. 502Chè bowl.Hanoi, 2025
Bia hơi cheers.
No. 751Bia hơi cheers.Hanoi, 2025
Bánh cuốn nóng.
No. 286Bánh cuốn nóng.Hanoi, 2025

Phở steaming from the pot, bún chả smoking over charcoal, chả cá sizzled tableside with dill, egg coffee whipped stiff at Giảng. Northern Vietnamese cooking is restrained, herbaceous and cold-weather clean, more mắm tôm than sugar, more herb than chilli.

04  The pantry

  • Nước mắm, northern fish sauce, lighter and cleaner than the south's
  • Mắm tôm, pungent violet shrimp paste Hanoi loves like nowhere else in Vietnam
  • Thì là, fresh dill folded into chả cá and every serious fish dish
  • Rau thơm, fistfuls of perilla, mint, coriander and Vietnamese balm served with every meal
  • Giấm bỗng, fermented rice-wine vinegar that gives bún ốc its distinctive tang
  • Bún, rice vermicelli cut fresh each morning for bún chả and bún riêu

05  In the kitchen

  • Grilling chả pork patties over hand-fanned charcoal for bún chả
  • Simmering phở broth overnight with beef bones, charred ginger and onion
  • Steaming bánh cuốn rice-paper crepes on cloth stretched across a wok
  • Wrapping nem cua bể square crab rolls tight for a snappy deep-fry
  • Ageing mắm tôm shrimp paste until it turns violet and heady

06  Eat this first

  • Phở bò, the clear-broth beef noodle Hanoi taught the world
  • Bún chả, grilled pork patties in sweet-sour nước chấm with cold vermicelli and herbs
  • Chả cá, turmeric-marinated catfish sizzled tableside with mountains of dill and spring onion
  • Bánh cuốn, silk-thin rice-paper rolls filled with minced pork and wood-ear mushroom
  • Cà phê trứng, the whipped egg-yolk coffee born at Giảng in 1946
Map of Hanoi

Field Guide

Our curated eating guide to Hanoi. Independent spots chosen by our local tastemakers.

Coming soon

08  Stories

Dispatches from the kitchens of Hanoi.

What happens inside a hammam kitchen

A morning with the cooks who feed the neighbourhood before dawn. Charcoal, dough, the smell of a bakery working its second oven.

The bread that fed the medina

Field report

The bread that fed the medina

Learning to pour mint tea

Field report

Learning to pour mint tea

09  Recipes

A collection of authentic recipes we couldn't leave behind.

More recipes
Chè Thập Cẩm
Recipe 524Hanoi

Vietnamese mixed dessert soup

Chè Thập Cẩm

A tall glass layered with mung bean, red bean, tapioca, lotus seed, pandan jelly and coconut cream over crushed ice. The classical Vietnamese "mixed everything" dessert.

3 hrs · Serves 6
Chè Khúc Bạch
Recipe 551Hanoi

White milk pudding dessert

Chè Khúc Bạch

Cubes of soft white milk pudding, cool almond-scented syrup, poached longan and crushed almonds. Ho Chi Minh City's modern minimalist chè.

2 hrs · Serves 4
Trứng Ngải Cứu
Recipe 527Hanoi

Egg omelette with mugwort

Trứng Ngải Cứu

A soft fluffy omelette bulked out with chopped fresh mugwort leaves, seasoned lightly with fish sauce. Northern Vietnam's traditional restorative dish for post-illness recovery.

20 min · Serves 2
Chuối Nếp Nướng
Recipe 538Hanoi

Grilled banana in sticky rice

Chuối Nếp Nướng

Whole bananas wrapped in coconut sticky rice and banana leaves, then grilled over charcoal until dark caramelised. Ho Chi Minh City's late-night street dessert, drenched in sweet coconut cream.

2 hr 30 min · Serves 4
Gỏi Cá Nam Ô
Recipe 549Hanoi

Da Nang raw fish salad

Gỏi Cá Nam Ô

Thin slices of raw anchovy cured briefly in lime, tossed with rice powder, roasted peanuts and mixed herbs, then wrapped in rice paper with vegetables. Da Nang's coastal specialty.

1 hr · Serves 4
Bánh Nậm
Recipe 548Hanoi

Hue steamed flat dumplings

Bánh Nậm

Thin flat rice-flour cakes topped with a small mound of pork and shrimp, wrapped in banana leaves and steamed. Hue's flat cousin to bánh bột lọc.

1 hr 30 min · Serves 6

10  Field Notes

Quick field notes to help you get accustomed to Hanoi.

Serving supper.
No. 260Serving supper.Hanoi, 2025
1

Weather

Four sharp seasons. Hot, humid summers (32°C-plus) with sudden storms, cool damp winters (near 10°C), and short, glorious spring and autumn windows. October and April are the sweet spots.

2

Currency

The Vietnamese dong (VND). Cash for markets, xe om (motorbike taxis), and street food. Cards in restaurants and hotels. ATMs are plentiful.

3

Language

Vietnamese; English coverage is decent in the Old Quarter and around hotels, thin elsewhere. A translation app helps enormously.

4

Etiquette

Modest dress at temples and pagodas. Bargain gently at markets; remove shoes when entering homes and some restaurants.

5

Getting around

The Old Quarter is best on foot, the traffic is chaotic but crossable if you walk steadily. Grab (bike or car) is the go-to ride option; taxis are cheap but insist on the meter.

6

Prayer

A mix of Buddhist, Confucian, and folk-religion rhythms, pagodas sit in every neighbourhood. Sundays fill the Catholic cathedral downtown.