Destination
Da Nang
The story
Bún ngan măng is one of northern Vietnam's most-loved winter noodle soups. Ngan is Vietnamese for Muscovy duck (a distinct species from Peking duck, with darker meat and a more gamey flavour), and măng is bamboo shoot (specifically pickled or fresh sour bamboo, not the plain tinned kind). The broth is a clear duck-and-bone simmer flavoured with ginger, cardamom, star anise and cinnamon, with sliced pickled bamboo shoots giving it a specific tangy edge. Rice vermicelli, sliced cooked duck meat, cubes of pork blood tofu, and generous herbs finish the bowl. Sold at every Hanoi neighbourhood noodle shop that specialises in duck, especially popular in winter when the rich duck broth feels restorative.
Method
Rub the duck inside and out with salt and smashed ginger. Rest 15 minutes. Rinse briefly under cold water.
Char the halved onion directly on a gas flame or under a grill 5 minutes until blackened at the edges.
Place duck in a large pot with water, charred onion, ginger, star anise, cinnamon, cardamom, cloves and peppercorns. Bring to a gentle simmer, skim foam, and cook 90 minutes until the duck is completely tender.
Lift the duck out. Cool briefly. Remove meat from bones and slice thin. Reserve.
Strain broth into a clean pot. Add fish sauce, sugar and salt. Taste and adjust.
Rinse pickled bamboo shoots thoroughly under cold water. Squeeze dry. In a pan, warm oil and cook garlic 30 seconds. Add bamboo shoots and fish sauce. Cook 5 minutes until fragrant. Add to the broth. Simmer 15 minutes.
If using pork blood tofu, add cubes to the broth in the last 5 minutes.
Boil fresh vermicelli 30 seconds. Drain and divide between 4 bowls. Top each with sliced duck. Ladle broth with bamboo and blood over. Scatter with spring onion and coriander. Serve with herbs, water spinach, bean sprouts, lime and chili on the side.
Tips
- Muscovy duck if you can find it. The classical Hanoi version uses a specific gamey darker duck. Regular duck works but flavour is slightly different.
- Rinse the pickled bamboo. Straight from the jar it is aggressively sour and salty. Rinse thoroughly and sauté before adding to the broth.
- Char the onion. This gives the broth its specific caramelised base note.
- Fermented shrimp paste on the side. Some Hanoi eaters add a small spoonful to their bowl; others do not. Offer it and let diners choose.
- Serve very hot. Duck fat sets when cool, and cold duck broth is unpleasant.
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