Destination
Hue
The story
Hến xào is one of Hue's most-loved river-food dishes. Hến are small freshwater clams (about 1cm across) harvested from the Perfume River (Sông Hương) that runs through Hue. The clams are boiled briefly in salted water to open the shells, then the tiny meat is picked out by hand (a laborious task, done by dedicated Hue clam families). The shelled clam meat is stir-fried hard with sliced lemongrass, minced garlic, sliced shallot, sliced chili and a splash of fish sauce until the water has all evaporated and the clams are slightly caramelised. Served with a plate of crispy sesame rice crackers (bánh tráng nướng), lettuce leaves, sliced star fruit, sliced green banana and fresh herbs. The eater breaks off a piece of rice cracker, tops with lettuce and a spoon of the clams, wraps and eats.
Method
Soak clams in salted water for 30 minutes to purge sand. Drain and rinse thoroughly.
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Add clams. Cook 3 to 4 minutes until all shells open. Drain, reserving 100ml of the cooking liquid. Discard any unopened clams.
Working over a bowl, pick the meat out of each shell with a fingernail or the tip of a spoon. Discard the shells. Rinse the meat briefly in the reserved cooking liquid to remove any grit.
Toast each rice cracker over an open flame or under a hot grill for 60 seconds per side until deep golden and crispy. Break into rough pieces.
Warm oil in a wide heavy pan or wok over high heat.
Add lemongrass, shallots, garlic, chili and ginger. Stir-fry 90 seconds until fragrant and starting to colour.
Add the shelled clam meat, turmeric and shrimp paste mixture. Toss over high heat for 2 minutes. Add fish sauce, sugar and pepper. Continue stir-frying 3 more minutes until the water has all evaporated and the clams are slightly caramelised and glossy.
Off the heat, fold in spring onion, Vietnamese coriander and half the crushed peanuts. Slide onto a plate. Scatter with remaining peanuts. Serve with toasted rice crackers, lettuce, herbs, star fruit, green banana, cucumber and lime.
Tips
- Small clams. The classical hến are tiny. If using larger clams, chop the meat into pea-sized pieces.
- Vietnamese coriander (rau răm). This is the classical herb; it has a specific peppery-lemony bite that regular coriander does not. Any Vietnamese grocer sells it.
- Stir-fry hard. High heat, fast tossing. Aim for slightly caramelised, not steamed.
- Toasted sesame crackers. This is the eating vessel. Do not substitute plain rice paper.
- Wrap-and-eat format. Break a piece of cracker, top with lettuce and clams, wrap in the lettuce leaf.
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