Destination
Da Nang
The story
Cà phê trứng is Hanoi's most famous coffee and one of the most-photographed drinks in Southeast Asia. A small glass is filled halfway with strong Vietnamese black coffee. On top, a thick fluffy foam is whisked from egg yolk, sweetened condensed milk and vanilla until pale, fluffy and hot. Served in a warm-water bath (the glass sits in a small bowl of hot water so the coffee stays hot). The eater spoons through the fluffy custard layer while sipping the coffee below; the custard slowly sinks into the coffee, transforming the drink. Invented in 1946 by Nguyen Van Giang, a bartender at the old Hanoi Sofitel Metropole hotel, when fresh milk was scarce during the wartime shortage and egg yolk foam was the ingenious substitute. His family still runs the original café, Cafe Giang, in the Hanoi old quarter.
Method
Brew strong Vietnamese coffee using a phin filter (Vietnamese drip): put grounds in the filter, pour hot water on top, wait 5 minutes for the coffee to drip through. Alternatively, brew 4 shots of strong espresso.
Pour just-boiled water into a wide bowl. Place the coffee glasses in the water so they stay hot. Set an empty medium mixing bowl over another shallow pan of gently simmering water (or use a metal bowl over a pan of hot water) for whisking the egg foam.
In the warm bowl, whisk egg yolks, condensed milk, vanilla and sugar (if using) with an electric hand whisk on high speed for 4 to 5 minutes until the mixture is pale, thick, fluffy and hot (about 60C). It should hold soft peaks and roughly triple in volume.
Divide the hot coffee between the two prepared glasses (in the hot-water bath). Spoon the hot fluffy foam generously on top, mounding it above the rim.
Dust with a whisper of cocoa powder or fine coffee grounds. Serve immediately with the glass still in the hot-water bath.
Sip through the foam with a small spoon. The classical eating position is to spoon a small amount of foam onto the tongue, then take a sip of the coffee below. The foam slowly sinks into the coffee over the next 10 minutes, transforming the drink.
Tips
- Very fresh eggs. Non-negotiable. The dish uses raw egg yolks that are only briefly heated; fresh eggs are essential for both safety and flavour.
- Warm-bowl whisking. This gently warms the yolks while whisking, which gives the classical fluffy foam. Cold whisking gives a runny foam.
- Strong coffee. Vietnamese phin coffee is strong; espresso works well as substitute. Weak coffee makes weak cà phê trứng.
- Hot-water bath for serving. Keeps the coffee hot while you drink through the foam.
- Do not stir. The classical experience is spooning through layers, not mixing.
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