Destination
Hue
The story
Bún riêu is one of Hanoi's most beloved noodle soups and one of the country's most distinctive tomato-based broths. The broth is built on freshwater crabs (traditionally pounded and strained to make crab paste), tomato, tamarind, fermented shrimp paste (mắm tôm), and pork stock. Rice vermicelli sits at the base of the bowl, and the soup is topped with the crab paste that has floated up during cooking (called riêu, the eponymous fluffy crab clouds), fried tofu cubes, tomato wedges, cooked pork blood (in the classical version), and a spoon of fried shallots. Served with a plate of fresh Vietnamese herbs, banana blossom, water spinach and lime for the diner to add at will.
Method
Blanch pork bones 5 minutes in boiling water. Drain. Return to a clean pot with fresh water, halved onion and salt. Simmer 60 to 90 minutes. Strain.
In a bowl, combine crab meat, minced pork, shallots, garlic, fish sauce, shrimp paste mixture, black pepper and eggs. Mix thoroughly.
In a large heavy pot, warm oil. Cook shallots 3 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook 2 minutes. Add fresh tomatoes and cook 8 minutes until they break down.
Pour in the pork stock. Add fish sauce, tamarind, sugar and chili sauce. Bring to a simmer.
With the broth at a gentle simmer, spoon the crab-and-pork mixture in dollops (each about 2 tablespoons) into the broth. Do not stir. The dollops will slowly rise to the surface and form fluffy riêu clouds. Simmer 8 to 10 minutes until fully cooked.
Gently add fried tofu cubes and pork blood cubes (if using). Simmer 3 more minutes.
Cook fresh vermicelli 30 seconds in boiling water; drain. Divide between 6 large deep bowls.
Ladle broth over the noodles, making sure each bowl gets riêu clouds, tofu, tomato wedges and (if using) blood. Top with fried shallots. Serve immediately with the plate of herbs, bean sprouts, banana blossom, water spinach, lime and chili on the side. Diners tear herbs into the soup and squeeze lime to taste.
Tips
- Fermented shrimp paste is the flavour marker. Thinned with lime juice and stirred in gives bún riêu its specific pungent depth. Do not skip.
- Do not stir the riêu clouds. Once you spoon in the crab-pork mixture, let it rise to the surface undisturbed. Stirring breaks the clouds into fragments.
- Tamarind for the sour edge. This is what makes bún riêu tangy rather than plain tomato.
- Fresh vermicelli if you can find it. Fresh rice noodles have a bounce that dried versions lack.
- Herbs generously. This is a very herb-forward soup.
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