Destination
Hue
The story
Chả cá Lã Vọng is Hanoi's most famous and most theatrical dish, invented in the 19th century by the Doan family who still run the original restaurant on the street now named after it (Chả Cá Street in the old quarter). Chunks of white fish (traditionally freshwater snakehead, now often catfish or cod) are marinated in a bright yellow turmeric-and-galangal paste with a spoon of fermented shrimp paste (mắm tôm), then pan-fried at the table on a small tabletop stove. Just before serving, a mountain of fresh dill and sliced spring onion is added to the sizzling pan; the herbs wilt into the hot fish. The dish is served with rice vermicelli, roasted peanuts, fresh herbs, lime and a small dish of the pungent mắm tôm dipping sauce.
Method
Whisk all marinade ingredients into a bright yellow paste. Add fish and toss to coat. Refrigerate 4 to 24 hours.
Whisk mắm tôm with lime juice, sugar and rice wine until the sauce becomes fluffy and lighter in colour. Stir in warm water and chili. Divide between small bowls. Warning: mắm tôm is aggressively pungent; small amounts are enough.
Arrange rice vermicelli, herbs, lettuce and peanuts on the table. Wash the dill and cut into 5cm lengths.
Warm oil and pork fat in a wide heavy skillet or cast-iron pan over medium-high heat until shimmering.
Add fish pieces in a single layer. Cook 3 minutes without moving; then flip and cook another 3 minutes. The fish should be deep yellow-gold and cooked through.
With the pan still on the heat, add all the dill and spring onions on top of the fish. Stir gently for 30 seconds until the herbs wilt but remain green.
Carry the pan directly to the table on a trivet.
Each diner places a small handful of rice vermicelli in a bowl, adds fish and wilted herbs from the pan, scatters with roasted peanuts, adds fresh herbs and lettuce, and drizzles with dipping sauce. Eat immediately.
Tips
- Do not skimp on dill. This is a dill-forward dish. Three large bunches for four people is not too much.
- Fermented shrimp paste. Non-negotiable for the classical flavour. Whisk with lime juice to make it fluffy and less aggressive.
- Fresh turmeric if possible. Grated fresh turmeric gives a brighter flavour than ground. Any Vietnamese grocer sells it fresh.
- Serve at the table on a portable stove if possible. The theatrical hot-pan finish is half the dish.
- Warn guests about the mắm tôm. First-timers can find the aroma overwhelming. Offer regular fish sauce as an alternative for those who prefer.
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