Destination
Hue
The story
Nộm bò khô is one of Hanoi's most-loved street salads and a specifically-northern-Vietnamese take on the wider Southeast Asian green papaya salad tradition. Shredded firm green papaya is tossed with strips of Vietnamese-style beef jerky (bò khô, dark, deeply-spiced, slightly chewy), roasted peanuts, fresh mint, coriander, sliced red chili, and a sharp fish sauce dressing with lime juice and sugar. Finished with fried shallots and a small drizzle of the beef jerky's soaking oil. Sold at every Hanoi pavement stall from about 3pm to 10pm, especially popular as an after-school or after-work snack. Every Hanoi 4pm hour has queues at the best nộm bò khô stalls in the old quarter.
Method
Peel the green papaya. Shred with a Vietnamese julienne peeler or grate on the coarse side of a box grater. Aim for thin ribbons.
Toss shredded papaya and carrot with 1 tsp of salt. Rest 10 minutes. Squeeze out excess water and drain.
Tear or shred the beef jerky into small strips (about 5cm long, 5mm wide).
Whisk fish sauce, lime, sugar and warm water until sugar dissolves. Stir in garlic and chili. Taste; should be sharp, salty, sweet and sour.
In a large bowl, combine drained papaya and carrot, sliced red onion, shredded beef jerky and half the crushed peanuts. Pour dressing over. Toss well.
Rest 5 minutes to let the papaya absorb the dressing.
Tear the mint, Vietnamese coriander and regular coriander coarsely. Fold through the salad.
Pile the salad on a platter. Scatter with remaining peanuts, fried shallots, and a drizzle of beef jerky soaking oil if using. Serve with lime wedges and rice crackers on the side.
Tips
- Firm green papaya. Ripe papaya is a completely different dish. Ask an Asian grocer for green.
- Ready-made bò khô is a legitimate shortcut. Any Vietnamese grocer sells excellent versions.
- Fresh mint is the northern Vietnamese signature. Do not skip.
- Salt the papaya first. This tenderises it and pulls out excess water so the salad is not watery.
- Serve immediately. Green papaya salad softens within an hour.
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