Welcome to the new home of A Chef's Tour. Bigger, bolder and tastier than ever.

Bogota

Corn cakes toast on hot griddles, chocolate steams beside melting cheese and hearty pots of ajiaco bubble slowly through the afternoon.

Shredding the lechona.
No. 474Shredding the lechona.Bogotá, 2025
“It wasn’t just about eating, it was a beautiful way to connect with the culture and truly get to know Colombia through its gastronomy.”

— Liliana, 2026

01  Food tours

Original food tours, curated with our local tastemakers to showcase the neighbourhood kitchens, markets and family-run eateries that define Bogota.

Viejo Bogota
Lunch Food TourNo. 001

Viejo Bogota

Bogota

US $55(NEW)

Climb into Bogotá's plateau kitchen — ajiaco, tamales santafereños and changua at daybreak.

4 Hours12+ Tastings
Sierra Suppers
Supper Food TourNo. 002

Sierra Suppers

Bogota

US $59(NEW)

A curated food tour through the streets, markets and family kitchens of the destination — flavour by flavour.

4 HoursMultiple Tastings

02  Meet the tastemakers

The local food experts who help us research, refine and lead every A Chef's Tour.

Andres Galan

head guide

Jorge Vasquez

guide

03  Field archive

Archived photographs from our tours and the Bogota food scene that tell you what the city actually tastes like.

Amazonian fish fritters.
No. 443Amazonian fish fritters.Bogotá, 2025
Steamy aromatica.
No. 014Steamy aromatica.Bogotá, 2025
Aromatica infusion.
No. 267Aromatica infusion.Bogotá, 2025
Vendor at night.
No. 142Vendor at night.Bogotá, 2025
La Candelaria bell tower.
No. 191La Candelaria bell tower.Bogotá, 2025
Plates of pandebono.
No. 189Plates of pandebono.Bogotá, 2025
Callejón del Embudo.
No. 118Callejón del Embudo.Bogotá, 2025
Lime on sancocho.
No. 206Lime on sancocho.Bogotá, 2025
Food heroes of Bogotá.
No. 496Food heroes of Bogotá.Bogotá, 2025
Empanadas with salsas.
No. 101Empanadas with salsas.Bogotá, 2025
Arepa cheese pull.
No. 606Arepa cheese pull.Bogotá, 2025
Tejo social club.
No. 400Tejo social club.Bogotá, 2025
Setting up the tejo.
No. 926Setting up the tejo.Bogotá, 2025
Crisp chicharrón.
No. 972Crisp chicharrón.Bogotá, 2025
Chicharrón cook.
No. 178Chicharrón cook.Bogotá, 2025
Tamales with chocolate.
No. 382Tamales with chocolate.Bogotá, 2025
Changua with arepa boyacense.
No. 134Changua with arepa boyacense.Bogotá, 2025
Bocadillo and panela.
No. 179Bocadillo and panela.Bogotá, 2025
Candelaria at night.
No. 855Candelaria at night.Bogotá, 2025
Herbal-medicine shelf.
No. 463Herbal-medicine shelf.Bogotá, 2025
Templete del Libertador.
No. 831Templete del Libertador.Bogotá, 2025
Buñuelos from oven.
No. 889Buñuelos from oven.Bogotá, 2025
Pandebono and buñuelo.
No. 163Pandebono and buñuelo.Bogotá, 2025
Downtown street market.
No. 953Downtown street market.Bogotá, 2025
Empanadas with ají.
No. 778Empanadas with ají.Bogotá, 2025
Shredding lechona.
No. 830Shredding lechona.Bogotá, 2025
Pitaya and lulo.
No. 903Pitaya and lulo.Bogotá, 2025
Tuber and bean cocido boyacense.
No. 315Tuber and bean cocido boyacense.Bogotá, 2025
Aunty at the stove.
No. 777Aunty at the stove.Bogotá, 2025
Chicha aunty.
No. 938Chicha aunty.Bogotá, 2025
La Perseverancia market.
No. 564La Perseverancia market.Bogotá, 2025
Bogotá supper.
No. 622Bogotá supper.Bogotá, 2025
Coca-leaf tasting.
No. 354Coca-leaf tasting.Bogotá, 2025
A dram of aguardiente.
No. 251A dram of aguardiente.Bogotá, 2025
Candelaria and cerros.
No. 432Candelaria and cerros.Bogotá, 2025
Pandequeso from oven.
No. 812Pandequeso from oven.Bogotá, 2025
Book vendor.
No. 399Book vendor.Bogotá, 2025
Chagua milk soup with egg.
No. 082Chagua milk soup with egg.Bogotá, 2025
Almojábana and buñuelo.
No. 275Almojábana and buñuelo.Bogotá, 2025

Ajiaco chicken and potato stew crowned with capers, tamales santafereños, changua milk soup, aguardiente in the evenings. Bogota eats the cool Andean plateau.

04  The pantry

  • Guasca, Andean herb essential for ajiaco
  • Corn on the cob, floated whole in ajiaco broth
  • Papa criolla, small yellow potatoes that dissolve into the soup
  • Capers, salty berry from the coast, spooned over ajiaco
  • Panela, unrefined cane sugar for agua de panela drinks

05  In the kitchen

  • Simmering ajiaco with three potato varieties and guasca herb
  • Steaming tamal santafereno in banana leaves with pork, chicken and rice
  • Cooking changua milk-and-egg soup for the cold Bogota mornings
  • Grilling chorizo santarrosano paisa sausages over charcoal
  • Melting panela into agua de panela with lime

06  Eat this first

  • Ajiaco, chicken and three-potato soup with capers, cream and corn
  • Tamal santafereno, sturdy tamal with chicken, pork and yellow rice
  • Changua, milk soup with poached egg and scallion for breakfast
  • Chocolate santafereno, hot chocolate dunked with cheese
  • Almojabana, cheesy corn bread from the Andean bakeries
Map of Bogota

Field Guide

Our curated eating guide to Bogota. Independent spots chosen by our local tastemakers.

Coming soon

08  Stories

Dispatches from the kitchens of Bogota.

Follow in the footsteps of Anthony Bourdain in Colombia

Eat at the same spots that the late, great travelling chef did on his travels through Colombia.

12 Colombian desserts and where to find them

Field report

12 Colombian desserts and where to find them

09  Recipes

A collection of authentic recipes we couldn't leave behind.

More recipes
Empanada de Pollo
Recipe 155Bogota

Fried chicken empanada

Empanada de Pollo

Yellow corn dough wrapped around a filling of shredded chicken, potato and hogao, deep-fried until deep gold and crackly. Colombia's small crunchy street empanada.

1 hr 30 min · Serves 6
Ceviche de Camarón
Recipe 173Bogota

Shrimp cocktail ceviche

Ceviche de Camarón

Poached shrimp tossed in ketchup, mayo, lime and finely diced onion, chilled and served in a cup with soda crackers. Cartagena's beachside cocktail, distinctly Colombian.

30 min · Serves 4
Chicharrón
Recipe 153Bogota

Crispy fried pork belly

Chicharrón

Pork belly slow-cooked in its own fat until the meat is tender and the skin has puffed to a crackling. The centrepiece of the Paisa bandeja and Medellín's proudest export.

2 hr 30 min · Serves 6
Cayeye
Recipe 172Bogota

Mashed green banana

Cayeye

Green plantain boiled and mashed with butter, hogao and crumbled cheese, topped with a fried egg. Santa Marta's Caribbean breakfast, cheap, filling and ancient.

30 min · Serves 4
Mondongo
Recipe 168Bogota

Beef tripe stew

Mondongo

Beef tripe slow-cooked with pork ribs, chorizo, potato, plantain and corn in a spiced broth. The Paisa Sunday soup, always eaten with rice and a slice of avocado.

5 hrs · Serves 8
Arepa de Chocolo
Recipe 167Bogota

Sweet corn arepa

Arepa de Chocolo

Fresh sweet corn ground into a soft paste, formed into thick discs and cooked on a griddle until deep golden. Split open, buttered and stuffed with white cheese.

30 min · Serves 4

10  Field Notes

Quick field notes to help you get accustomed to Bogota.

Empanada cook.
No. 076Empanada cook.La Candelaria, 2019
1

Weather

Cool highland climate at 2,600 m. Spring-like year-round (14–20°C) with sudden showers common. Layers are essential. The altitude makes sunburn easy.

2

Currency

The Colombian peso (COP). Cash for markets and taxis; cards for restaurants and hotels. Amounts look huge. 10,000 COP is only a couple of dollars.

3

Language

Spanish (Colombian Spanish is famously clear). English coverage is decent in the historic Candelaria and Zona T, thin elsewhere.

4

Etiquette

Modest dress at churches. Bogotá is safer than its reputation but stay street-smart. Don't display phones or valuables in busy areas, and use Uber or Cabify after dark.

5

Getting around

TransMilenio (BRT buses) is cheap and covers the whole city but often crowded. Uber and Cabify are the reliable ride options. Cycling on Sundays (Ciclovía) is a joy.

6

Prayer

Predominantly Catholic. Sundays fill the churches, particularly the Sanctuary at Monserrate on the hill. Growing Evangelical presence too.