Destination
Bogota
The story
Papitas criollas are Colombia's contribution to the world of bar snacks: tiny yellow potatoes (papa criolla, a specifically Colombian variety with a thin edible skin and a bright yellow flesh) cooked whole in their skins until deep gold and slightly shrivelled, then tossed in butter and coarse salt and served hot. Ordered by the bowl at every Bogotá bar, boteco and small restaurant. Impossible to stop eating.
Method
Place the potatoes (still whole, with skins on) in a saucepan with cold salted water. Bring to a boil and cook 8 to 10 minutes, until just fork-tender. If using frozen papa criolla, add straight from frozen. Drain well and pat dry.
Spread the drained potatoes on a plate and leave to air-dry for 5 minutes. Dry surface fries better than wet.
Heat the oil in a wide, heavy pan or shallow fryer to 180°C (355°F). Fry the potatoes in a single layer (in batches if needed) for 4 to 5 minutes, until deep golden and slightly shrivelled. Some will burst open. Shake the pan occasionally.
Lift out with a slotted spoon and drain briefly on kitchen paper.
While the potatoes are still hot, tip into a serving bowl. Add the butter and let it melt over the top. Sprinkle over the flake salt, coriander and merkén if using. Toss gently to coat.
Serve immediately with a small dish of ají picante or hogao for dipping. Toothpicks on the side.
Tips
- Frozen papa criolla is a great convenience. Colombian grocers sell them frozen, whole and peeled, ready to boil straight from the bag. Baby new potatoes are the honest substitute but taste a shade less rich.
- Two-step method (boil, then fry) is essential. Boiling first cooks the middle through gently; frying hot gives the shrivelled, caramelised exterior. Skipping the boil gives you either raw middles or over-fried outsides.
- Dry the potatoes before frying. Water on the surface causes oil to spit dangerously and stops the exterior from crisping. Five minutes on a plate is enough.
- Skin on, always. The thin skin of papa criolla is edible and browns beautifully. Peeling is unnecessary and takes away the classic look and texture.
- Serve immediately. Papitas criollas soften as they cool. Fry to order or fry in the 10 minutes before guests arrive.
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