Welcome to the new home of A Chef's Tour. Bigger, bolder and tastier than ever.

Puerto Vallarta

Fish crackles over open flames, tortillas land warm from the comal and smoky seafood grills perfume the evening air.

Working the tortilla dough.
No. 277Working the tortilla dough.Puerto Vallarta, 2025

01  Food tours

Original food tours, curated with our local tastemakers to showcase the neighbourhood kitchens, markets and family-run eateries that define Puerto Vallarta.

Vallarta Flavours
Lunch Food TourNo. 001

Vallarta Flavours

Puerto Vallarta

US $69(NEW)

A curated food tour through the streets, markets and family kitchens of the destination — flavour by flavour.

4 Hours14+ Tastings
Vallarta Tales
Supper Food TourNo. 002

Vallarta Tales

Puerto Vallarta

US $69(NEW)

A curated food tour through the streets, markets and family kitchens of the destination — flavour by flavour.

4 Hours14+ Tastings

02  Meet the tastemakers

The local food experts who help us research, refine and lead every A Chef's Tour.

Renato Ruiz Hernández

head guide

Ulices Delgado Mora

guide

03  Field archive

Archived photographs from our tours and the Puerto Vallarta food scene that tell you what the city actually tastes like.

Pozole rojo with accompaniments.
No. 316Pozole rojo with accompaniments.Puerto Vallarta, 2025
Tacos de carnitas.
No. 064Tacos de carnitas.Puerto Vallarta, 2025
Comal-toasted tortillas.
No. 412Comal-toasted tortillas.Puerto Vallarta, 2025
Stirring the pot.
No. 616Stirring the pot.Puerto Vallarta, 2025
Soaked pambazo.
No. 046Soaked pambazo.Puerto Vallarta, 2025
Tacos de cabeza stand.
No. 121Tacos de cabeza stand.Puerto Vallarta, 2025
Bici-cart umbrella.
No. 410Bici-cart umbrella.Puerto Vallarta, 2025
Gordita, 'little fat one'.
No. 804Gordita, 'little fat one'.Puerto Vallarta, 2025
Queso over gorditas.
No. 392Queso over gorditas.Puerto Vallarta, 2025
Flipping gorditas.
No. 027Flipping gorditas.Puerto Vallarta, 2025
Old-school tortilleria.
No. 784Old-school tortilleria.Puerto Vallarta, 2025
Tortilla-press machine.
No. 318Tortilla-press machine.Puerto Vallarta, 2025
Tortillero at work.
No. 542Tortillero at work.Puerto Vallarta, 2025
Shaving the pastor.
No. 151Shaving the pastor.Puerto Vallarta, 2025
Cementerio papel picado.
No. 706Cementerio papel picado.Puerto Vallarta, 2025
Aguas frescas cart.
No. 533Aguas frescas cart.Puerto Vallarta, 2025
Nixtamalizing the corn.
No. 939Nixtamalizing the corn.Puerto Vallarta, 2025
Lime over suadero.
No. 167Lime over suadero.Puerto Vallarta, 2025
Beef-cheek tacos.
No. 131Beef-cheek tacos.Puerto Vallarta, 2025
Tacos, after dark.
No. 760Tacos, after dark.Puerto Vallarta, 2025
Late-night taquería.
No. 133Late-night taquería.Puerto Vallarta, 2025
Talavera salsa station.
No. 809Talavera salsa station.Puerto Vallarta, 2025
Taco toppings.
No. 752Taco toppings.Puerto Vallarta, 2025
Aunties at the cart.
No. 298Aunties at the cart.Puerto Vallarta, 2025
Filled gorditas.
No. 853Filled gorditas.Puerto Vallarta, 2025
A glass of pulque.
No. 575A glass of pulque.Puerto Vallarta, 2025
Salsa over fish tacos.
No. 990Salsa over fish tacos.Puerto Vallarta, 2025
Nieves chamoy.
No. 621Nieves chamoy.Puerto Vallarta, 2025
Al pastor with charred pineapple.
No. 898Al pastor with charred pineapple.Puerto Vallarta, 2025
Burritos and salsa.
No. 588Burritos and salsa.Puerto Vallarta, 2025

Aguachile with wild shrimp, pescado zarandeado over mangrove wood, birria de res, tuba coconut wine from a bamboo. Vallarta cooks Nayarit and Jalisco at the shore.

04  The pantry

  • Chiltepin, tiny wild chilli grown along the Pacific coast
  • Wild shrimp, sweet crustaceans from the Bay of Banderas
  • Tuba, coconut palm wine tapped from bamboo canes
  • Fresh mahi mahi, from the Pacific fleet
  • Sour orange, for marinades and dressings

05  In the kitchen

  • Curing aguachile shrimp raw in lime and green chilli
  • Grilling pescado zarandeado whole butterflied fish over mangrove wood
  • Slow-cooking birria de res in guajillo and ancho broth
  • Tapping tuba coconut wine at dawn from palm inflorescences
  • Roasting corn elotes at the beachfront with lime and chile

06  Eat this first

  • Aguachile, wild shrimp cured raw in lime, green chilli and cucumber
  • Pescado zarandeado, butterflied fish grilled over mangrove wood
  • Birria tatemada, dry-braised Jalisco birria on a hot comal
  • Tuba, coconut palm wine drunk cold with peanuts
  • Raspados, shaved-ice cones drizzled with fruit syrups
Map of Puerto Vallarta

Field Guide

Our curated eating guide to Puerto Vallarta. Independent spots chosen by our local tastemakers.

Coming soon

08  Stories

Dispatches from the kitchens of Puerto Vallarta.

What happens inside a hammam kitchen

A morning with the cooks who feed the neighbourhood before dawn. Charcoal, dough, the smell of a bakery working its second oven.

The bread that fed the medina

Field report

The bread that fed the medina

Learning to pour mint tea

Field report

Learning to pour mint tea

09  Recipes

A collection of authentic recipes we couldn't leave behind.

More recipes
Tamal Rojo de Puerco
Recipe 302Puerto Vallarta

Red pork tamal

Tamal Rojo de Puerco

Fluffy corn masa filled with pork shredded in red guajillo-ancho salsa, wrapped in corn husks and steamed. The classical Mexican tamal, red edition.

4 hrs · Serves 8
Tostiesquite
Recipe 105Puerto Vallarta

Topped street nachos

Tostiesquite

Oaxaca's street mash-up: a crunchy tostada base piled with hot esquite corn, mayo, cheese, lime and chile. The prehispanic dish gets a modern platform.

40 min · Serves 4
Panuchos de Pavo
Recipe 309Puerto Vallarta

Turkey bean-stuffed tortilla

Panuchos de Pavo

Fried tortillas stuffed with black beans and topped with shredded turkey, pickled red onion and avocado — the Yucatán's crunchy answer to the tostada.

1 hr 30 min · Serves 4
Agua Fresca
Recipe 282Puerto Vallarta

Fresh fruit water

Agua Fresca

Fresh fruit blended with water and a splash of lime — the mercado thirst-quencher. Jamaica, horchata, tamarindo, sandía or piña, poured from big glass tanks.

30 min · Serves 8
Flan Napolitano
Recipe 298Puerto Vallarta

Mexican caramel custard

Flan Napolitano

A silky caramel-topped custard, richer and denser than the European original. Mexico's most-eaten dessert, born in nuns' kitchens 300 years ago.

1 hr 30 min · Serves 6
Tacos al Pastor
Recipe 295Puerto Vallarta

Spit-grilled pineapple pork tacos

Tacos al Pastor

Pineapple-marinated pork carved off a spinning vertical trompo, caught on a small tortilla with a flick of chopped pineapple, onion and coriander. Mexico City's most famous taco.

8 hrs · Serves 6

10  Field Notes

Quick field notes to help you get accustomed to Puerto Vallarta.

Queso fresco.
No. 191Queso fresco.Puerto Vallarta, 2025
1

Weather

Tropical Pacific. Hot and humid year-round (26–32°C). Dry season November to May (peak). Wet season June to October brings dramatic afternoon storms.

2

Currency

The Mexican peso (MXN). US dollars widely accepted in tourist areas but at poorer rates than pesos. Cards work almost everywhere.

3

Language

Spanish. English is widely spoken thanks to tourism.

4

Etiquette

Warm and casual. Modest dress at churches; the beach is more relaxed. The city has one of the most vibrant LGBTQ+ scenes in Latin America.

5

Getting around

The Malecón is walkable end-to-end. Local buses are cheap and cover the whole bay. Uber and taxis both work. Water taxis reach the beaches south of town.

6

Prayer

Predominantly Catholic. Our Lady of Guadalupe (with the crown atop the church) is the town's spiritual landmark. The daily pilgrimage in December fills the streets.