Welcome to the new home of A Chef's Tour. Bigger, bolder and tastier than ever.

Merida

Sour orange perfumes slow-roasted pork, tortillas puff on hot comales and habanero chillies wait patiently beside every plate.

Kneading achiote.
No. 810Kneading achiote.Merida, 2025
“Wonderful way to get a feel for the city and a beautiful introduction to Yucatan flavors!”

— Courtney, 2025

01  Food tours

Original food tours, curated with our local tastemakers to showcase the neighbourhood kitchens, markets and family-run eateries that define Merida.

Yucatan Flavours
Lunch Food TourNo. 001

Yucatan Flavours

Merida

US $59(NEW)

A 4-hour guided journey through Mérida’s most authentic Yucatecan flavours.

4 Hours15+ Tastings
Twilight Tastes
Supper Food TourNo. 002

Twilight Tastes

Merida

US $59(NEW)

Discover the Yucatán's Mayan table — cochinita pibil, sopa de lima and xnipec.

4 Hours15+ Tastings

02  Meet the tastemakers

The local food experts who help us research, refine and lead every A Chef's Tour.

Nestor Alfredo Duran Dzul

head guide

Adrian Diaz

guide

03  Field archive

Archived photographs from our tours and the Merida food scene that tell you what the city actually tastes like.

Tacos árabes.
No. 180Tacos árabes.Merida, 2025
Horchata on tap.
No. 707Horchata on tap.Merida, 2025
Market friends.
No. 911Market friends.Merida, 2025
Plaza Grande flag.
No. 961Plaza Grande flag.Merida, 2025
Tortillas conveyor.
No. 694Tortillas conveyor.Merida, 2025
Crisp marquesita.
No. 641Crisp marquesita.Merida, 2025
Marquesita vendor.
No. 982Marquesita vendor.Merida, 2025
Frying the panuchos.
No. 595Frying the panuchos.Merida, 2025
Salbutes al plato.
No. 623Salbutes al plato.Merida, 2025
Recado kitchen.
No. 005Recado kitchen.Merida, 2025
Sorbete chamoy.
No. 852Sorbete chamoy.Merida, 2025
Frida on the wall.
No. 123Frida on the wall.Merida, 2025
Sorbete station.
No. 407Sorbete station.Merida, 2025
Kibis in the case.
No. 957Kibis in the case.Merida, 2025
Kibi Tradición.
No. 637Kibi Tradición.Merida, 2025
Empanadas & salsas.
No. 052Empanadas & salsas.Merida, 2025
Empanada queso pull.
No. 733Empanada queso pull.Merida, 2025
Portales del mercado.
No. 313Portales del mercado.Merida, 2025
Horchata rosa.
No. 544Horchata rosa.Merida, 2025
Drinks vendor at the market.
No. 118Drinks vendor at the market.Merida, 2025
Tortilla press.
No. 684Tortilla press.Merida, 2025
Tortilleria conveyor.
No. 905Tortilleria conveyor.Merida, 2025
Weighing the tortillas.
No. 443Weighing the tortillas.Merida, 2025
Aunty of the plátanos.
No. 669Aunty of the plátanos.Merida, 2025
La Yucateca stall.
No. 368La Yucateca stall.Merida, 2025
Yucatan paste maker.
No. 162Yucatan paste maker.Merida, 2025
Jars of the mercado.
No. 114Jars of the mercado.Merida, 2025
Lime on tacos.
No. 849Lime on tacos.Merida, 2025
Wall of luchadores.
No. 448Wall of luchadores.Merida, 2025
Cantina Modelo.
No. 096Cantina Modelo.Merida, 2025
Botana spread with beer.
No. 865Botana spread with beer.Merida, 2025
Concha tray.
No. 340Concha tray.Merida, 2025
Hojaldras stacked.
No. 711Hojaldras stacked.Merida, 2025
Lime over the tacos.
No. 712Lime over the tacos.Merida, 2025
Cochinita pibil.
No. 599Cochinita pibil.Merida, 2025
Marquesita, mid-roll.
No. 812Marquesita, mid-roll.Merida, 2025

Cochinita pibil buried under banana leaf, sopa de lima with turkey, xnipec habanero salsa, papadzules in pumpkin seed sauce. The Yucatan table is Mayan first, Mexican second.

04  The pantry

  • Achiote paste, brick-red annatto seasoning for cochinita pibil
  • Sour orange, bitter naranja agria for marinades
  • Habanero, blistering-hot chilli for xnipec salsa
  • Pumpkin seeds, ground into pipian and papadzules sauce
  • Chaya leaves, spinach-like Mayan green

05  In the kitchen

  • Marinating pork in achiote and sour orange before wrapping in banana leaf
  • Pit-cooking cochinita pibil in a covered fire underground
  • Grinding pumpkin seeds into a green sauce for papadzules
  • Roasting habaneros for the xnipec pickled-onion salsa
  • Cooking salbutes and panuchos fresh on the comal

06  Eat this first

  • Cochinita pibil, achiote pork slow-cooked in banana leaves under a pit
  • Sopa de lima, turkey broth soured with local sour lime
  • Panuchos, refried tortillas stuffed with black beans and topped with cochinita
  • Papadzules, tortillas rolled around egg under pumpkin-seed sauce
  • Poc chuc, sour-orange marinated pork grilled fast over charcoal
Map of Merida

Field Guide

Our curated eating guide to Merida. Independent spots chosen by our local tastemakers.

Coming soon

08  Stories

Dispatches from the kitchens of Merida.

What happens inside a hammam kitchen

A morning with the cooks who feed the neighbourhood before dawn. Charcoal, dough, the smell of a bakery working its second oven.

The bread that fed the medina

Field report

The bread that fed the medina

Learning to pour mint tea

Field report

Learning to pour mint tea

09  Recipes

A collection of authentic recipes we couldn't leave behind.

More recipes
Tamal Rojo de Puerco
Recipe 302Merida

Red pork tamal

Tamal Rojo de Puerco

Fluffy corn masa filled with pork shredded in red guajillo-ancho salsa, wrapped in corn husks and steamed. The classical Mexican tamal, red edition.

4 hrs · Serves 8
Tostiesquite
Recipe 105Merida

Topped street nachos

Tostiesquite

Oaxaca's street mash-up: a crunchy tostada base piled with hot esquite corn, mayo, cheese, lime and chile. The prehispanic dish gets a modern platform.

40 min · Serves 4
Panuchos de Pavo
Recipe 309Merida

Turkey bean-stuffed tortilla

Panuchos de Pavo

Fried tortillas stuffed with black beans and topped with shredded turkey, pickled red onion and avocado — the Yucatán's crunchy answer to the tostada.

1 hr 30 min · Serves 4
Agua Fresca
Recipe 282Merida

Fresh fruit water

Agua Fresca

Fresh fruit blended with water and a splash of lime — the mercado thirst-quencher. Jamaica, horchata, tamarindo, sandía or piña, poured from big glass tanks.

30 min · Serves 8
Flan Napolitano
Recipe 298Merida

Mexican caramel custard

Flan Napolitano

A silky caramel-topped custard, richer and denser than the European original. Mexico's most-eaten dessert, born in nuns' kitchens 300 years ago.

1 hr 30 min · Serves 6
Tacos al Pastor
Recipe 295Merida

Spit-grilled pineapple pork tacos

Tacos al Pastor

Pineapple-marinated pork carved off a spinning vertical trompo, caught on a small tortilla with a flick of chopped pineapple, onion and coriander. Mexico City's most famous taco.

8 hrs · Serves 6

10  Field Notes

Quick field notes to help you get accustomed to Merida.

Tortilla maker.
No. 965Tortilla maker.Merida, 2025
1

Weather

Hot and humid year-round. Yucatán is the sunniest and hottest part of Mexico. December to February is milder; May before the rains is brutal.

2

Currency

The Mexican peso (MXN). Cash for markets and taxis; cards for restaurants and hotels. Small notes are useful.

3

Language

Spanish. Yucatec Maya is spoken widely in the region and heard in Mérida markets. English coverage is decent in the tourist centre.

4

Etiquette

Warm and traditional. Modest dress at cenotes and Mayan sites; sit-and-chat culture is strong. Plazas fill in the evenings.

5

Getting around

The historic centre is walkable. Uber and DiDi both work. Colectivos and ADO buses reach the coast, cenotes, and Mayan ruins.

6

Prayer

Predominantly Catholic layered over deep Mayan traditions. Hanal Pixán (the Yucatec Day of the Dead) is a major community observance.