Welcome to the new home of A Chef's Tour. Bigger, bolder and tastier than ever.

Ethiopia

Follow the smoke, the scent of cumin, the sound of dough being slapped and stretched. Every alley has a kitchen. Every kitchen has a story.

Salting Atlantic sardines
No. 042Salting Atlantic sardinesEthiopia, 2026, 5.20pm

01  Food tours

Original food tours, curated with our local tastemakers to showcase the neighbourhood kitchens, markets and family-run eateries that define Ethiopia.

Berbere Bites
Lunch Food TourNo. 001

Berbere Bites

Ethiopia

US $49(NEW)

Eat Addis Ababa at lunchtime — injera, doro wat and kitfo bright with berbere.

4 Hours14+ Tastings
Addis Eats
Supper Food TourNo. 002

Addis Eats

Ethiopia

US $49(NEW)

Venture beyond the guidebooks into Addis Ababa's rich culinary traditions, flavours and neighbourhoods.

4 Hours12+ Tastings

02  Meet the tastemakers

The local food experts who help us research, refine and lead every A Chef's Tour.

Fitsum Kostre

head guide

Desalegn Genebo

guide

Seid Mouanie

guide

03  Field archive

Archived photographs from our tours and the Ethiopia food scene that tell you what the city actually tastes like.

Salting Atlantic sardines
No. 042Salting Atlantic sardinesBab Doukkala, 2026
Mint tea, poured slowly
No. 118Mint tea, poured slowlyDjemaa el-Fnaa, 2025
Charcoal smoke and tagine
No. 273Charcoal smoke and tagineMellah, 2024
Spice market, dusk
No. 057Spice market, duskRahba Kedima, 2026
Slow-cooked lamb, seven hours
No. 199Slow-cooked lamb, seven hoursRiad Zitoun, 2025
The souk before opening
No. 314The souk before openingSouk Semmarine, 2024
Flatbreads, still warm
No. 086Flatbreads, still warmBab Doukkala, 2025
Cumin and clay
No. 245Cumin and clayKasbah, 2026
Kitchen off the medina
No. 167Kitchen off the medinaDerb Dabachi, 2024
Riad courtyard, morning prep
No. 093Riad courtyard, morning prepSidi Mimoun, 2025

04  The pantry

  • Preserved lemon
  • Argan oil (the good stuff, from Essaouira)
  • Ras el hanout — a blend, never bought pre-mixed by locals
  • Green olives, cracked
  • Almonds, saffron, dates
  • Charmoula — fresh herb + spice paste

05  In the kitchen

  • Tagine cooking — slow braise in a conical earthenware pot
  • Charcoal-grilling in makeshift alley grills — mechoui, kebab, sardines
  • Pounding chermoula in mortars, never in a food processor
  • Sweet-and-savoury pairings — chicken with prunes, lamb with dates

06  Eat this first

  • Sardines chermoula — the fisherman's version, char-grilled hard
  • Tagine of lamb with prunes and almonds
  • Harira soup at sundown — the Ramadan tradition, year-round classic
  • Msemen — square, layered pancakes with honey and butter

08  Stories

Dispatches from the kitchens of Ethiopia.

What happens inside a hammam kitchen

A morning with the cooks who feed the neighbourhood before dawn. Charcoal, dough, the smell of a bakery working its second oven.

The bread that fed the medina

Field report

The bread that fed the medina

Learning to pour mint tea

Field report

Learning to pour mint tea

09  Recipes

A collection of authentic recipes we couldn't leave behind.

More recipes
Duba Quanta
Recipe 196Ethiopia

Squash with dried beef

Duba Quanta

Roast pumpkin simmered slowly with pieces of dried spiced beef and berbere. Ethiopia's autumn-into-winter stew, richer than it looks.

1 hr 30 min · Serves 6
Awaze
Recipe 201Ethiopia

Berbere chili paste

Awaze

Berbere blended with tej or red wine and a splash of oil into a fiery, glossy red paste. Ethiopia's essential condiment, on every table.

20 min · Serves 12
Bekolt
Recipe 195Ethiopia

Spiced barley toast

Bekolt

Roasted barley, chickpeas, peanuts and sunflower seeds tossed with a little salt. Ethiopia's coffee-ceremony snack, portable, endlessly refillable.

40 min · Serves 8
Gomen
Recipe 202Ethiopia

Ethiopian collard greens

Gomen

Collard greens braised slowly with onion, garlic, ginger and a spoon of niter kibbeh. The everyday Ethiopian side that shows up on every plate.

45 min · Serves 4
Ergo
Recipe 200Ethiopia

Ethiopian fresh yogurt

Ergo

Whole milk fermented overnight into a thick, tangy Ethiopian yogurt. Served with kitfo, drizzled with honey, or spooned into fitfit dishes.

12 hrs · Serves 6
Pasti
Recipe 199Ethiopia

Ethiopian spiced pasta

Pasti

Spaghetti tossed with berbere-spiced tomato sauce, awaze and a spoon of niter kibbeh. Ethiopia's café pasta, born of the Italian occupation and made unmistakably Addis.

30 min · Serves 4