Welcome to the new home of A Chef's Tour. Bigger, bolder and tastier than ever.

Buenos Aires

Parrillas glow beneath glowing embers, butchers salt thick cuts with practised ease and smoke curls from sizzling strips of entraña.

Asado awaits.
No. 352Asado awaits.San Telmo, 2025
“I felt like I had a proper dive into local cuisine through this tour. Would highly recommend to a lover of street and local food.”

— Chyna, 2026

01  Food tours

Original food tours, curated with our local tastemakers to showcase the neighbourhood kitchens, markets and family-run eateries that define Buenos Aires.

Chimichurri Trails
Lunch Food TourNo. 001

Chimichurri Trails

Buenos Aires

US $99(NEW)

Eat your way through Buenos Aires at lunchtime — parrilla smoke, empanadas and provoleta.

4 Hours12+ Tastings
Barrio Bites
Supper Food TourNo. 002

Barrio Bites

Buenos Aires

US $99(NEW)

Follow the parrilla smoke through Buenos Aires: asado, provoleta and chimichurri off the fire.

4 Hours12+ Tastings

02  Meet the tastemakers

The local food experts who help us research, refine and lead every A Chef's Tour.

Victoria Gabriela Krull

head guide

Ana Belen Ponce

guide

Catalina Caamaño

guide

03  Field archive

Archived photographs from our tours and the Buenos Aires food scene that tell you what the city actually tastes like.

The parilla.
No. 622The parilla.Mercado San Telmo, 2025
House made jamon.
No. 310House made jamon.San Telmo, 2025
Generations-old.
No. 216Generations-old.San Telmo, 2025
Ribs.
No. 678Ribs.San Telmo, 2026
Sticky pastries.
No. 207Sticky pastries.San Telmo, 2025
Baked empanadas.
No. 130Baked empanadas.Mercado San Telmo, 2026
Fresh produce.
No. 790Fresh produce.Mercado San Telmo, 2026
A feast from the grill.
No. 785A feast from the grill.San Telmo, 2025
Open for over a century.
No. 673Open for over a century.San Telmo, 2025
Sausage off the parilla.
No. 286Sausage off the parilla.San Telmo, 2026
At work.
No. 795At work.San Telmo, 2025
Historic architecture.
No. 473Historic architecture.San Telmo, 2025
Pastelito.
No. 825Pastelito.San Telmo, 2026
Grilled provoleta.
No. 015Grilled provoleta.San Telmo, 2025
Stacked pizza boxes.
No. 625Stacked pizza boxes.San Telmo, 2025
Evita.
No. 552Evita.San Telmo, 2026
Historic.
No. 457Historic.San Telmo, 2026
Morning breakfast.
No. 813Morning breakfast.San Telmo, 2026
Cured jamon.
No. 836Cured jamon.San Telmo, 2026
Pair with a vermouth.
No. 529Pair with a vermouth.San Telmo, 2026
Sliced jamon.
No. 395Sliced jamon.San Telmo, 2025
Argetine beef.
No. 290Argetine beef.San Telmo, 2026
Historic eateries.
No. 612Historic eateries.San Telmo, 2026
Bola de fraile.
No. 771Bola de fraile.San Telmo, 2026
Craftsmanship.
No. 126Craftsmanship.San Telmo, 2025
Baked empanadas.
No. 136Baked empanadas.Mercado San Telmo, 2025
Provoleta ready for grill.
No. 047Provoleta ready for grill.San Telmo, 2026
Boulevard in autumn.
No. 354Boulevard in autumn.San Telmo, 2025
Faina and fugazza.
No. 797Faina and fugazza.San Telmo, 2025
Frozen in time.
No. 064Frozen in time.San Telmo, 2025
Flan.
No. 129Flan.San Telmo, 2025

Asado over quebracho charcoal, provoleta bubbling in cast iron, chimichurri sharp with garlic and vinegar, dulce de leche in everything. Beef and fire are the whole language.

04  The pantry

  • Quebracho, hardwood charcoal for the asado grill
  • Provoleta, provolone cheese grilled in cast iron
  • Chimichurri, parsley, garlic, oregano and vinegar sauce
  • Malbec, Mendoza grape that fuels every asado
  • Dulce de leche, caramelised milk for every dessert

05  In the kitchen

  • Building an asado over quebracho embers and cooking meat low and slow
  • Griddling choripan chorizo sandwiches at every football stadium
  • Baking Argentine empanadas with beef, olive and hard-boiled egg
  • Pouring boiling water over yerba mate for the shared gourd
  • Layering alfajores with dulce de leche and dusting them in coconut

06  Eat this first

  • Asado, wood-fire feast of ribs, sweetbreads, morcilla and chorizo
  • Milanesa napolitana, breaded steak topped with ham, tomato and cheese
  • Empanadas mendocinas, hand-cut beef pastries with olive and cumin
  • Provoleta, whole provolone grilled in cast iron with oregano
  • Dulce de leche, spread on toast, alfajores and every dessert going
Map of Buenos Aires

Field Guide

Our curated eating guide to Buenos Aires. Independent spots chosen by our local tastemakers.

Coming soon

08  Stories

Dispatches from the kitchens of Buenos Aires.

What happens inside a hammam kitchen

A morning with the cooks who feed the neighbourhood before dawn. Charcoal, dough, the smell of a bakery working its second oven.

The bread that fed the medina

Field report

The bread that fed the medina

Learning to pour mint tea

Field report

Learning to pour mint tea

09  Recipes

A collection of authentic recipes we couldn't leave behind.

More recipes
Fugazza
Recipe 109Buenos Aires

Onion cheese pizza

Fugazza

Buenos Aires' Genoese-immigrant pizza. Thick, doughy base under a mountain of sweet onions, mozzarella and oregano.

2 hr 30 min · Serves 6
Alfajores
Recipe 116Buenos Aires

Dulce de leche cookies

Alfajores

Two crumbly cornstarch shortbreads sandwiched with dulce de leche, edges rolled in coconut. Argentina's tea-time cookie: one in each hand, gone before you notice.

1 hr 45 min · Serves 12
Empanada
Recipe 112Buenos Aires

Baked stuffed pastry

Empanada

Half-moon pastries of knife-cut beef, sweet onion, cumin, hard-boiled egg and one green olive. The most portable meal in Argentina.

2 hrs · Serves 6
Flan Casero
Recipe 108Buenos Aires

Homemade caramel custard

Flan Casero

Baked custard with bitter caramel, dulce de leche and crema chantilly. The Sunday-lunch dessert every Argentine grandmother makes.

2 hrs · Serves 8
Argentine Pizza
Recipe 117Buenos Aires

Cheesy Argentine pizza

Argentine Pizza

Thick, spongy dough buried under a thick blanket of mozzarella, topped with oregano and a whole green olive. The Buenos Aires bar-counter pizza, not the Neapolitan kind.

2 hr 30 min · Serves 6
Chimichurri
Recipe 113Buenos Aires

Herb steak sauce

Chimichurri

The green sauce that rides shotgun with every grilled meat in Argentina. Parsley, garlic, oregano, chilli, red wine vinegar and olive oil.

45 min · Serves 8

10  Field Notes

Quick field notes to help you get accustomed to Buenos Aires.

Generation's old fainá.
No. 542Generation's old fainá.San Telmo, 2024
1

Weather

Temperate. Hot, humid summers (December–February, 30°C) and mild winters (5–15°C in July). Spring (October–November) and autumn (April–May) are the sweet spots.

2

Currency

The Argentine peso (ARS). Rampant inflation makes cash calculation tricky. Cards work in restaurants and shops but check the exchange rate, the 'blue dollar' rates matter.

3

Language

Spanish (with the distinct rioplatense accent and 'vos' instead of 'tú'). English coverage is decent in Palermo and Recoleta, thinner elsewhere.

4

Etiquette

Warm, physical, and late. Dinner rarely starts before 9 pm, nights end past 3 am. Kiss on one cheek in greeting.

5

Getting around

The Subte (metro) is cheap but limited. Colectivos (buses) cover everywhere but require the SUBE card. Uber, Cabify, and DiDi all work. Walking Palermo and San Telmo is a joy.

6

Prayer

Predominantly Catholic. The birthplace of Pope Francis. Sundays fill the churches. Small but old Jewish and Muslim communities in Once and elsewhere.