Welcome to the new home of A Chef's Tour. Bigger, bolder and tastier than ever.

Sao Paulo

Pastéis crackle in bubbling oil, mortadella is carved into towering sandwiches and garlic perfumes sizzling pans.

Carving the pernil.
No. 717Carving the pernil.São Paulo, 2025
“This was an absolutely outstanding food tour!”

— Shanuka, 2026

01  Food tours

Original food tours, curated with our local tastemakers to showcase the neighbourhood kitchens, markets and family-run eateries that define Sao Paulo.

Paulista Plates
Lunch Food TourNo. 001

Paulista Plates

Sao Paulo

US $89(NEW)

Eat São Paulo at lunchtime — Mercadão mortadella, coxinha, pastel de feira and feijoada.

4 Hours12+ Tastings
Sao Suppers
Supper Food TourNo. 002

Sao Suppers

Sao Paulo

US $95(NEW)

Taste Sampa on a plate — feijoada, Mercadão mortadella and coxinha from Bela Vista.

4 Hours12+ Tastings

02  Meet the tastemakers

The local food experts who help us research, refine and lead every A Chef's Tour.

Sabrina Cordeiro

head guide

David Arruda

guide

Leandro Zonaro Stumpf

guide

Michelle Macedo

guide

03  Field archive

Archived photographs from our tours and the Sao Paulo food scene that tell you what the city actually tastes like.

Coxinhas and moela.
No. 376Coxinhas and moela.São Paulo, 2025
Feijão over rice.
No. 833Feijão over rice.São Paulo, 2025
Catching the subway.
No. 809Catching the subway.São Paulo, 2025
Crisp pastel.
No. 708Crisp pastel.São Paulo, 2025
Chocolate brigadeiros.
No. 875Chocolate brigadeiros.São Paulo, 2025
Old-São Paulo photos.
No. 266Old-São Paulo photos.São Paulo, 2025
Brazilian coffee.
No. 110Brazilian coffee.São Paulo, 2025
Queijadinha and café.
No. 172Queijadinha and café.São Paulo, 2025
Linguiça in nets.
No. 055Linguiça in nets.São Paulo, 2025
Catedral da Sé.
No. 574Catedral da Sé.São Paulo, 2025
Steamed corn cart.
No. 201Steamed corn cart.São Paulo, 2025
Downtown graffiti.
No. 236Downtown graffiti.São Paulo, 2025
Cachaça flight.
No. 961Cachaça flight.São Paulo, 2025
Bandeirante mural.
No. 625Bandeirante mural.São Paulo, 2025
Cheers.
No. 505Cheers.São Paulo, 2025
Mortadela com queijo.
No. 744Mortadela com queijo.São Paulo, 2025
Moela mise en place.
No. 173Moela mise en place.São Paulo, 2025
Bar da Santa.
No. 745Bar da Santa.São Paulo, 2025
Cutting the corn.
No. 822Cutting the corn.São Paulo, 2025
Feira checkers.
No. 479Feira checkers.São Paulo, 2025
Espetinhos y queijo.
No. 069Espetinhos y queijo.São Paulo, 2025
Pernil sandwich.
No. 457Pernil sandwich.São Paulo, 2025
Estadão sandwiches.
No. 304Estadão sandwiches.São Paulo, 2025
Pão de queijo case.
No. 195Pão de queijo case.São Paulo, 2025
Brazilian cheese bread.
No. 222Brazilian cheese bread.São Paulo, 2025
Bravo Café baker.
No. 129Bravo Café baker.São Paulo, 2025
Aboud Síria owner.
No. 045Aboud Síria owner.São Paulo, 2025
Lombo missô and feijão.
No. 657Lombo missô and feijão.São Paulo, 2025
Kibbeh and sfihas.
No. 687Kibbeh and sfihas.São Paulo, 2025
Shawarma spit.
No. 796Shawarma spit.São Paulo, 2025
Cúpula da Cachaça.
No. 196Cúpula da Cachaça.São Paulo, 2025
Cachaça shelves.
No. 438Cachaça shelves.São Paulo, 2025
Pouring the cachaça.
No. 759Pouring the cachaça.São Paulo, 2025
Decades of recognition.
No. 483Decades of recognition.São Paulo, 2025
Sun-dried beef and fried rice.
No. 703Sun-dried beef and fried rice.São Paulo, 2025
Café canelina and brigadeiro.
No. 515Café canelina and brigadeiro.São Paulo, 2025
Pastel cook.
No. 577Pastel cook.São Paulo, 2025
Miso pork cutlet.
No. 300Miso pork cutlet.São Paulo, 2025
Brazilian sausage on the plancha.
No. 525Brazilian sausage on the plancha.São Paulo, 2025
The food heroes.
No. 097The food heroes.São Paulo, 2025

Feijoada slow cooked with pork and beans, mortadella sandwiches at Mercadao, pastel do feira, coxinha shredded chicken in dough. Sao Paulo eats Brazil, Italy, Japan and Lebanon all in one lunch.

04  The pantry

  • Feijao preto, black beans for the classic feijoada
  • Dende, palm oil used for northeastern dishes
  • Farofa, toasted cassava flour scattered over every plate
  • Mortadella, folded high into the market sandwich
  • Aji de rocoto, imported Peruvian chillies in the new-wave kitchens

05  In the kitchen

  • Slow-cooking feijoada with black beans and salted pork parts on Wednesdays and Saturdays
  • Building the Mercadao mortadella sandwich to a wobbling stack
  • Grilling picanha over the churrascaria's rotating spits
  • Baking coxinhas teardrop chicken croquettes with a shattering crust
  • Layering pastel de feira pastries at the weekly street markets

06  Eat this first

  • Feijoada, black bean and pork stew with rice, kale and orange
  • Mortadella sandwich, Mercadao Municipal's mile-high classic
  • Coxinha, teardrop-shaped shredded-chicken croquette
  • Pastel de feira, deep-fried pastry stuffed with cheese or meat
  • Picanha, top-cap steak grilled over open flame with rice and beans
Map of Sao Paulo

Field Guide

Our curated eating guide to Sao Paulo. Independent spots chosen by our local tastemakers.

Coming soon

08  Stories

Dispatches from the kitchens of Sao Paulo.

What happens inside a hammam kitchen

A morning with the cooks who feed the neighbourhood before dawn. Charcoal, dough, the smell of a bakery working its second oven.

The bread that fed the medina

Field report

The bread that fed the medina

Learning to pour mint tea

Field report

Learning to pour mint tea

09  Recipes

A collection of authentic recipes we couldn't leave behind.

More recipes
Queijadinha
Recipe 136Sao Paulo

Coconut cheese bite

Queijadinha

Little baked coconut-and-cheese cups with a caramelised top. A Portuguese convent sweet that landed in Brazil and never left.

45 min · Serves 12
Madrilenho
Recipe 140Sao Paulo

Rio pastry sandwich

Madrilenho

Shredded roast chicken, melted mozzarella, potato palha and a slick of creamy sauce piled inside a hot roll. The São Paulo boteco chicken sandwich generations of Rua Piauí counters made famous.

1 hr · Serves 4
Pastel de Carne
Recipe 134Sao Paulo

Fried beef pastry

Pastel de Carne

Thin, crackling pastry deep-fried around a ground-beef filling. The classic feirinha snack, sold with sugarcane juice on Saturday mornings.

1 hr 30 min · Serves 6
Brigadeiro
Recipe 132Sao Paulo

Chocolate fudge truffle

Brigadeiro

Chocolate condensed milk cooked down to fudge, rolled into balls, coated in sprinkles. The birthday-party sweet every Brazilian grew up on.

45 min · Serves 30
Cocada
Recipe 126Sao Paulo

Coconut candy

Cocada

Fresh coconut cooked slowly with sugar until chewy and caramelised. The beach sweet sold by Salvador's Baianas straight from the pan.

45 min · Serves 10
Mortadela com Queijo
Recipe 133Sao Paulo

Mortadella cheese sandwich

Mortadela com Queijo

Half a kilo of thin-sliced mortadella and melted provolone piled inside a small French roll. The Mercadão Municipal's single most famous order.

20 min · Serves 4

10  Field Notes

Quick field notes to help you get accustomed to Sao Paulo.

Food hero of.
No. 527Food hero of.São Paulo, 2025
1

Weather

Subtropical. Mild year-round (15–25°C), warmer November to March, cool July nights. Sudden storms year-round. Layers help.

2

Currency

The Brazilian real (BRL). Cards accepted almost everywhere. PIX dominates for locals, cash for small purchases.

3

Language

Portuguese (Brazilian). English coverage is decent in Jardins and Vila Madalena, thinner elsewhere.

4

Etiquette

Fast-paced and business-focused by Brazilian standards. More reserved than Rio. Be street-smart with phones. Uber and 99 are the safe options.

5

Getting around

The metro is fast, clean, and expanding, cheap and easy. Uber and 99 are reliable everywhere. Traffic is heavy so build in time.

6

Prayer

Predominantly Catholic with rapidly growing Evangelical churches. Home to one of the world's largest Japanese-Buddhist communities (Liberdade). Muslim, Jewish, and Umbanda communities also strong.