Destination
Rio de Janeiro
The story
Queijo coalho is a firm, salted Brazilian curd cheese that doesn't melt when heated, which makes it perfect for grilling. In Salvador you'll see the vendors walking the length of Porto da Barra beach with a small portable charcoal grill on a strap over their shoulder, skewers of coalho already prepped, sold hot straight off the fire for a handful of reais. Bronze crust, squeaky bite, a slight sweetness from the oregano or molasses (mel de cana) drizzled on top.
Method
Thread 3 to 4 cubes onto each skewer with a small gap between each cube. This lets the heat get to all sides.
Charcoal or hardwood coals: build a hot bed of grey-ashed embers with no flames. If cooking indoors, heat a dry heavy cast iron pan over high heat until it just starts to smoke.
Place the skewers directly on the grate over the coals (or into the hot pan). Grill 60 to 90 seconds per side, turning once, until deep golden crust marks appear on all sides. Total cook: about 4 minutes.
Move to a plate. Scatter with oregano and chilli flakes if using, drizzle with mel de cana or honey if using, and serve with lime wedges. Eat straight off the skewer while hot.
Tips
- Halloumi is the perfect substitute if you can't find queijo coalho. It has the same salt-cured, non-melting behaviour. Cypriot origin, but the same texture and grilling behaviour.
- Hot and fast, not slow. Coalho on a low grill dries out. You want it on the fire long enough to blister the outside and just warm the inside through, no more.
- Mel de cana is the classic drizzle. Sugarcane molasses gives a smoky sweetness that plays beautifully against the salty cheese. Dark honey works if unavailable. Maple syrup is a stretch but not wrong.
- Don't over-oil. Coalho releases enough of its own fat as it heats. Brushing with oil first makes the outside greasy without adding flavour.
- Best served immediately. Once the crust cools it turns rubbery. Serve straight off the grill, or bring the pan to the table if cooking indoors.
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