Destination
Rio de Janeiro
The story
Pãozinho (also called pão francês or pão d'água) is the Brazilian breakfast roll: a small, torpedo-shaped white bread with a crackly, almost brittle crust and an airy, chewy middle. Every corner padaria in the country bakes them fresh three or four times a day, and the smell of them coming out of the oven at seven in the morning is one of the constants of Brazilian city life. Weighed by the kilo, ordered by the dozen, split and eaten in about ninety seconds with a coffee.
Method
In a stand mixer with a dough hook, combine the flour, salt, sugar, yeast and milk powder if using. Add the warm water and oil. Mix on low until it comes together, then knead 8 minutes on medium until smooth, elastic and slightly tacky. If mixing by hand, knead 10 to 12 minutes on the bench.
Transfer to a lightly oiled bowl. Cover and rise in a warm spot 90 minutes, until doubled.
Tip the dough onto a lightly floured surface. Divide into 12 equal pieces, roughly 65g each. Pat each piece flat, fold the edges into the middle to build tension, and roll each into a small torpedo shape about 10cm long with slightly tapered ends. Place seam-side down on lined baking trays with plenty of space between.
With a sharp blade, make one shallow lengthways slash down the top of each roll about 1cm deep. This is the classic pão francês signature.
Cover loosely and prove 45 minutes, until visibly puffed but not fully doubled.
About 20 minutes before baking, heat the oven to 230°C (445°F) with a heavy baking tray on the bottom rack. When ready to bake, pour a cup of boiling water into the bottom tray to create steam. The steam is what gives the classic crackly crust.
Slide the trays of rolls into the oven above the steaming tray. Bake 18 to 22 minutes, until deep golden brown and the tops sound hollow when tapped. Rotate the trays halfway through if your oven has hot spots.
Move the rolls to a rack. Cool at least 10 minutes before eating: the crust sets as they cool. Best eaten within 4 hours of baking.
Tips
- The steam is the whole trick. Brazilian padarias use industrial steam-injection ovens; the boiling-water-under-the-tray hack is the home-cook version. Skip it and you get soft crust and dense crumb.
- Slash decisively. A hesitant, shallow cut opens raggedly. A confident 1cm slash down the length gives the classic pão francês opening. A sharp razor or lame beats a knife every time.
- Slightly under-proved is better than over-proved. Over-proved dough collapses when it hits the hot oven and gives you flat, gummy rolls. Second rise until visibly puffed, not until doubled.
- Milk powder is traditional but optional. It boosts crust colour and adds a subtle sweetness. Every Brazilian home bread recipe includes it; skip if you don't have any.
- Best day-of, but leftovers make excellent pão na chapa. Split day-old rolls, butter both cut sides thickly and press onto a hot dry pan until the butter melts and the surface crackles. Coffee mandatory.
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