Welcome to the new home of A Chef's Tour. Bigger, bolder and tastier than ever.

Rabat

Fresh khobz disappears into stone ovens, sardines hiss over charcoal and chermoula perfumes bustling neighbourhood kitchens.

Rabat seafood tagine.
No. 126Rabat seafood tagine.Rabat, 2025
“I have been on more than one food tour in Morocco and much of this food was new to me. Honestly, the best tasting tajine in my two month stay here in Morocco.”

— Jessica, 2026

01  Food tours

Original food tours, curated with our local tastemakers to showcase the neighbourhood kitchens, markets and family-run eateries that define Rabat.

Rabat Eats
Lunch Food TourNo. 001

Rabat Eats

Rabat

US $59(NEW)

Eat Rabat at lunchtime — bissara, sardine kefta and chebakia sesame cookies from the medina.

4 Hours15+ Tastings
Rabat Nights
Supper Food TourNo. 002

Rabat Nights

Rabat

US $59(NEW)

Discover Rabat, quieter than Marrakech, older than Casablanca — bissara, sardine kefta and m'hancha.

4 Hours15+ Tastings

02  Meet the tastemakers

The local food experts who help us research, refine and lead every A Chef's Tour.

Youssef El Kahili

head guide

03  Field archive

Archived photographs from our tours and the Rabat food scene that tell you what the city actually tastes like.

Atlantic sardine grill.
No. 160Atlantic sardine grill.Rabat, 2025
Moroccan spices.
No. 894Moroccan spices.Rabat, 2025
Moroccan pastries.
No. 095Moroccan pastries.Rabat, 2025
Nutty amlou on jben.
No. 261Nutty amlou on jben.Rabat, 2025
Halawiyat since 1928.
No. 758Halawiyat since 1928.Rabat, 2025
Basket courier.
No. 395Basket courier.Rabat, 2025
Piquant pickle bowls.
No. 635Piquant pickle bowls.Rabat, 2025
Medina alley.
No. 558Medina alley.Rabat, 2025
Crisp briouats.
No. 430Crisp briouats.Rabat, 2025
Prepping the briouats.
No. 628Prepping the briouats.Rabat, 2025
Maakouda and aubergine.
No. 028Maakouda and aubergine.Rabat, 2025
Tagines for sale.
No. 385Tagines for sale.Rabat, 2025
Spicy merguez in khboz.
No. 721Spicy merguez in khboz.Rabat, 2025
Scaling fish.
No. 554Scaling fish.Rabat, 2025
Seafood tajine into bread.
No. 274Seafood tajine into bread.Rabat, 2025
Wild Moroccan honey spot.
No. 148Wild Moroccan honey spot.Rabat, 2025
Briny green and black olives.
No. 549Briny green and black olives.Rabat, 2025
Medina alley market.
No. 741Medina alley market.Rabat, 2025
Slow-cooked beef and chickpeas.
No. 882Slow-cooked beef and chickpeas.Rabat, 2025
Kefta tagine.
No. 781Kefta tagine.Rabat, 2025
Fruit-stall uncle.
No. 350Fruit-stall uncle.Rabat, 2025
Colourful dye pigments.
No. 944Colourful dye pigments.Rabat, 2025
Medina minaret.
No. 880Medina minaret.Rabat, 2025
Chicken tagine and grilled sardines.
No. 269Chicken tagine and grilled sardines.Rabat, 2025
Lifting the lids.
No. 026Lifting the lids.Rabat, 2025
Tea time.
No. 708Tea time.Rabat, 2025
Mechoui lamb sandwich.
No. 773Mechoui lamb sandwich.Rabat, 2025
Steaming the mechoui.
No. 466Steaming the mechoui.Rabat, 2025
Steps into the medina.
No. 802Steps into the medina.Rabat, 2025
Khboz out of the oven.
No. 606Khboz out of the oven.Rabat, 2025
Generations-old oven.
No. 937Generations-old oven.Rabat, 2025

Bissara fava bean soup, sardine kefta, m'hancha almond coil, chebakia sesame cookies. Rabat cooks quieter than Marrakech and older than Casablanca.

04  The pantry

  • Broad beans, dried for the classic bissara soup
  • Sardines, silver Atlantic fish from the day's catch
  • Preserved lemons, salt-cured for tagines
  • Argan oil, drizzled onto salads and dips
  • Rghaif dough, layered squares for the flaky flatbread

05  In the kitchen

  • Blending bissara soup with fava beans, olive oil and cumin
  • Sizzling rghaif pancakes on a hot buttered griddle
  • Stuffing chebakia pastries with honey and sesame
  • Grilling sardines whole on hot charcoal by the beach
  • Layering m'hancha almond snake pastries into a spiral

06  Eat this first

  • Bissara, warming fava bean soup drizzled with olive oil and cumin
  • Sardine kefta, minced sardine patties with chermoula
  • M'hancha, coiled almond and orange-blossom pastry
  • Rfissa, chicken, lentils and fenugreek over shredded msemen
  • Chebakia, sesame and honey pastries for Ramadan and beyond
Map of Rabat

Field Guide

Our curated eating guide to Rabat. Independent spots chosen by our local tastemakers.

Coming soon

08  Stories

Dispatches from the kitchens of Rabat.

What happens inside a hammam kitchen

A morning with the cooks who feed the neighbourhood before dawn. Charcoal, dough, the smell of a bakery working its second oven.

The bread that fed the medina

Field report

The bread that fed the medina

Learning to pour mint tea

Field report

Learning to pour mint tea

09  Recipes

A collection of authentic recipes we couldn't leave behind.

More recipes
Baghrir
Recipe 317Rabat

Thousand-hole semolina pancakes

Baghrir

Soft yeasted semolina pancakes covered in a thousand tiny bubbles, cooked on a hot skillet on one side only. Morocco's spongy honey-soaked breakfast.

1 hr 30 min · Serves 6
Bocadillo Merguez
Recipe 327Rabat

Merguez sausage sandwich

Bocadillo Merguez

Spicy merguez lamb sausages grilled hard, tucked into a crusty baguette with sliced tomato, chili sauce and pickles. Tangier's Spanish-Moroccan street lunch.

30 min · Serves 4
Lobia
Recipe 313Rabat

Moroccan white bean stew

Lobia

Cannellini or white beans simmered in tomato, garlic, cumin and paprika until soupy-tender. The Moroccan winter one-pot, eaten with khobz.

1 hr 30 min · Serves 6
Briouat
Recipe 328Rabat

Filo-wrapped fried parcels

Briouat

Small triangular or cigar-shaped pastries stuffed with spiced meat, cheese or almond paste, fried crisp. Morocco's cocktail-party appetiser, sold at every souk stand.

1 hr 30 min · Serves 8
Raib
Recipe 324Rabat

Moroccan set yogurt

Raib

Sweet, thick set yogurt made from whole milk and rennet, scented with orange blossom. Morocco's oldest dessert, spooned from small clay jars.

8 hrs · Serves 6
Tajine de Poulet
Recipe 331Rabat

Chicken preserved-lemon tagine

Tajine de Poulet

Slow-cooked chicken tagine with preserved lemons, cracked green olives and a saffron-onion sauce. Morocco's Friday-lunch classic, eaten with khobz.

2 hrs · Serves 6

10  Field Notes

Quick field notes to help you get accustomed to Rabat.

Mountain jben cheese man.
No. 247Mountain jben cheese man.Rabat, 2025
1

Weather

Mild Atlantic climate. Warm summers (25–28°C) tempered by the coast, cool wet winters. Spring and autumn are the best months for walking.

2

Currency

The Moroccan dirham (MAD). Cards accepted in restaurants and hotels, cash for taxis, cafés, and the medina. ATMs are common.

3

Language

Moroccan Arabic (Darija) is spoken everywhere; French is the language of government and business; English works in tourist areas.

4

Etiquette

Rabat is the capital and slightly more formal than the coastal cities. Modest dress in the kasbah and near government buildings.

5

Getting around

The tram links the centre to Salé across the river. Petits taxis (blue) are cheap. The medina is compact and easily walked.

6

Prayer

Five calls to prayer daily; the Hassan Tower and Mohammed V mausoleum are both accessible to visitors. Friday afternoons briefly slow the city.