Welcome to the new home of A Chef's Tour. Bigger, bolder and tastier than ever.

Santiago

Charcoal glows beneath thick cuts of beef, onions soften into sizzling paila eggs and merkén perfumes the rising smoke.

Pulpo vendor.
No. 322Pulpo vendor.Santiago, 2025
“We felt like he was our friend and he was hosting us as guests in his city. He knew all of the local vendors and gave us the authentic tour we were hoping for. ”

— Holland, 2026

01  Food tours

Original food tours, curated with our local tastemakers to showcase the neighbourhood kitchens, markets and family-run eateries that define Santiago.

Mercado Meals
Lunch Food TourNo. 001

Mercado Meals

Santiago

US $59(NEW)

Sample Santiago at lunchtime — pebre, wood-fired asado and mote con huesillo.

4 Hours12+ Tastings

02  Meet the tastemakers

The local food experts who help us research, refine and lead every A Chef's Tour.

Ivan Barrientos

head guide

Anneliese Peebles

guide

Felipe Esteban Arellano Andrea

guide

Manuel Barrera

guide

Raul Patricio Aguirre Sepúlveda

guide

03  Field archive

Archived photographs from our tours and the Santiago food scene that tell you what the city actually tastes like.

Estofado.
No. 386Estofado.Santiago, 2025
Empanadas de pino.
No. 949Empanadas de pino.Santiago, 2025
Avocado completos.
No. 894Avocado completos.Santiago, 2025
Flaming the wok.
No. 054Flaming the wok.Santiago, 2025
Plaza pigeons.
No. 249Plaza pigeons.Santiago, 2025
Mote con huesillos.
No. 201Mote con huesillos.Santiago, 2025
Copihue mote cart.
No. 602Copihue mote cart.Santiago, 2025
Machas parmesana.
No. 032Machas parmesana.Santiago, 2025
Gutting the fish.
No. 256Gutting the fish.Santiago, 2025
Lamb-rib butcher.
No. 455Lamb-rib butcher.Santiago, 2025
Almuerzo del día.
No. 803Almuerzo del día.Santiago, 2025
Old-Santiago wall.
No. 553Old-Santiago wall.Santiago, 2025
Mayo over completos.
No. 923Mayo over completos.Santiago, 2025
Market vegetables.
No. 073Market vegetables.Santiago, 2025
Weighing the reineta.
No. 281Weighing the reineta.Santiago, 2025
Mercado Central alley.
No. 548Mercado Central alley.Santiago, 2025
La Piojera menu.
No. 984La Piojera menu.Santiago, 2025
La Vega grocer.
No. 614La Vega grocer.Santiago, 2025
Plaza de Armas.
No. 969Plaza de Armas.Santiago, 2025
La Piojera waitress.
No. 233La Piojera waitress.Santiago, 2025
Cheers at La Piojera.
No. 544Cheers at La Piojera.Santiago, 2025
La Piojera doorway.
No. 531La Piojera doorway.Santiago, 2025
La Piojera mural.
No. 070La Piojera mural.Santiago, 2025
Inside La Piojera.
No. 261Inside La Piojera.Santiago, 2025
Wooden diablo.
No. 332Wooden diablo.Santiago, 2025
Chupe and pipeño.
No. 747Chupe and pipeño.Santiago, 2025
Terremoto flutes.
No. 039Terremoto flutes.Santiago, 2025
Sopaipilla and palta.
No. 826Sopaipilla and palta.Santiago, 2025
Cocinera del almuerzo.
No. 594Cocinera del almuerzo.Santiago, 2025
Menú del día.
No. 333Menú del día.Santiago, 2025
Mercado cheese.
No. 511Mercado cheese.Santiago, 2025

Pebre salsa on the bread, wood fired asado, curanto pit cooked shellfish, mote con huesillo peach and wheat drink. Chile cleans up its Andean neighbours with restraint.

04  The pantry

  • Merken, smoked Mapuche chilli powder
  • Choclo, sweet Andean corn for pastel and humitas
  • Pebre, fresh tomato-onion-coriander salsa on every table
  • Cochayuyo, dried Pacific bull kelp for stews and salads
  • Ulmo honey, floral honey from Patagonian forests

05  In the kitchen

  • Baking pastel de choclo corn pie under a caramelised top
  • Simmering cazuela chunky broth with beef, corn, pumpkin and rice
  • Grilling asado over wood in the country tradition
  • Cooking curanto in a pit lined with hot stones and nalca leaves
  • Layering mote con huesillos peach and wheat drink over ice

06  Eat this first

  • Pastel de choclo, sweet-corn pie with beef, chicken, olive and raisin
  • Empanadas de pino, beef, onion and olive empanadas baked to order
  • Chorrillana, mound of fries topped with steak, egg and onion
  • Curanto, pit-cooked shellfish and meats served with milcao potato bread
  • Mote con huesillo, sweet cold drink of dried peach and wheat berries
Map of Santiago

Field Guide

Our curated eating guide to Santiago. Independent spots chosen by our local tastemakers.

Coming soon

08  Stories

Dispatches from the kitchens of Santiago.

What happens inside a hammam kitchen

A morning with the cooks who feed the neighbourhood before dawn. Charcoal, dough, the smell of a bakery working its second oven.

The bread that fed the medina

Field report

The bread that fed the medina

Learning to pour mint tea

Field report

Learning to pour mint tea

09  Recipes

A collection of authentic recipes we couldn't leave behind.

More recipes
Carne al Jugo
Recipe 149Santiago

Beef in its juices

Carne al Jugo

Beef slow-braised with onion, garlic and red wine until the gravy turns dark and glossy. The Chilean home-cooking classic, always served with mashed potato.

2 hrs · Serves 4
Pastel de Choclo
Recipe 143Santiago

Corn and beef pie

Pastel de Choclo

A layer of blitzed sweet corn with basil baked over a filling of beef, chicken, olive, raisin and boiled egg. Chile's summer national dish, served in a clay paila with sugar caramelised on top.

1 hr 30 min · Serves 6
Machas Parmesana
Recipe 148Santiago

Baked razor clams

Machas Parmesana

Razor clams on the half shell, topped with butter, parmesan and a splash of white wine, blistered under a hot grill. Chile's Pacific coast bar snack.

30 min · Serves 4
Paila Marina
Recipe 147Santiago

Chilean seafood stew

Paila Marina

A clay bowl of Pacific shellfish and fish poached in a tomato-and-wine broth, thick with coriander. Chile's classic seafood stew, also the country's most-prescribed hangover cure.

1 hr · Serves 4
Completo
Recipe 150Santiago

Chilean loaded hot dog

Completo

The Chilean hot dog: sausage on a soft bun, buried under mashed avocado, chopped tomato and a mountain of mayo. Green, red and white, the colours of the completo Italiano.

30 min · Serves 4
Chupe de Jaiba
Recipe 142Santiago

Baked crab casserole

Chupe de Jaiba

Crab meat baked with milk-soaked bread, white wine, cream and a lot of cheese in individual clay bowls. Chile's Pacific coast comfort food.

1 hr · Serves 4

10  Field Notes

Quick field notes to help you get accustomed to Santiago.

Hearty Chilean dishes.
No. 759Hearty Chilean dishes.Santiago, 2025
1

Weather

Mediterranean. Hot dry summers (December–February, 30°C-plus) and cool wet winters (5–15°C, occasional snow in the surrounding Andes). Spring and autumn are ideal.

2

Currency

The Chilean peso (CLP). Cards accepted almost everywhere. Cash useful for smaller shops and markets.

3

Language

Spanish (with distinctive Chilean slang and a very fast pace). English coverage is decent in Providencia and Las Condes, thinner elsewhere.

4

Etiquette

Reserved by South American standards. More European in feel. Punctuality is appreciated.

5

Getting around

The metro is fast, cheap, clean, and covers most of the city. Get a Bip! card. Uber, Cabify, and DiDi all work; and taxis are cheap.

6

Prayer

Predominantly Catholic. Growing Evangelical community too. Sundays fill the cathedral. Chile is one of the more secular Latin American countries in daily practice.