Welcome to the new home of A Chef's Tour. Bigger, bolder and tastier than ever.

Rio de Janeiro

Garlic sizzles in bubbling beans, skewers hiss over glowing charcoal and chilled sugarcane juice is pressed to order.

Chef at work.
No. 579Chef at work.Centro, 2025
“We tried so many fantastic Brazilian dishes and snacks from such interesting places that I’m sure we wouldn’t have tried”

— Anna, 2026

01  Food tours

Original food tours, curated with our local tastemakers to showcase the neighbourhood kitchens, markets and family-run eateries that define Rio de Janeiro.

Rio Roots
Lunch Food TourNo. 001

Rio Roots

Rio de Janeiro

US $89(NEW)

Eat Rio at lunchtime — feijoada, pão de queijo, botequim staples and a cold caipirinha.

4 Hours12+ Tastings
Carioca Kitchens
Supper Food TourNo. 002

Carioca Kitchens

Rio de Janeiro

US $95(NEW)

Chase feijoada, char and cachaça through Rio's corner boteco kitchens.

4 Hours12+ Tastings

02  Meet the tastemakers

The local food experts who help us research, refine and lead every A Chef's Tour.

Keley Souza

head guide

03  Field archive

Archived photographs from our tours and the Rio de Janeiro food scene that tell you what the city actually tastes like.

Frango rotisserie.
No. 498Frango rotisserie.Copacabana, 2025
Brazilian pastries.
No. 862Brazilian pastries.Ipanema, 2025
Shrimp acarajé.
No. 803Shrimp acarajé.Ipanema, 2025
Leitão in the oven.
No. 732Leitão in the oven.Centro, 2025
Tapiocaria cart.
No. 560Tapiocaria cart.Ipanema, 2025
Tapiocaria owner.
No. 338Tapiocaria owner.Ipanema, 2025
Rei do Quibe.
No. 804Rei do Quibe.Centro, 2025
The Lebanese connection.
No. 157The Lebanese connection.Centro, 2025
Rua do Brasil.
No. 788Rua do Brasil.Centro, 2025
Rio centro spire.
No. 812Rio centro spire.Centro, 2025
Padaria display case.
No. 837Padaria display case.Centro, 2025
Rio cafezinho.
No. 551Rio cafezinho.Centro, 2025
Cafezinho pour.
No. 030Cafezinho pour.Centro, 2025
Grinding the pepper.
No. 194Grinding the pepper.Centro, 2025
Botequim wall.
No. 609Botequim wall.Centro, 2025
Queijo coalho.
No. 922Queijo coalho.Centro, 2025
Classic boteco.
No. 600Classic boteco.Centro, 2025
Torresmo and lime.
No. 755Torresmo and lime.Centro, 2025
Ipanema in the golden hour.
No. 674Ipanema in the golden hour.Ipanema, 2025
Boteco evening table.
No. 543Boteco evening table.Copacabana, 2025
Boteco waitress.
No. 146Boteco waitress.Copacabana, 2025
Boteco kitchen.
No. 851Boteco kitchen.Copacabana, 2025
Milho verde stand.
No. 895Milho verde stand.Copacabana, 2025
Torresminho cups.
No. 171Torresminho cups.Copacabana, 2025
Pernil display.
No. 809Pernil display.Copacabana, 2025
Parada da Copa host.
No. 511Parada da Copa host.Copacabana, 2025
Lime over crab gratin.
No. 258Lime over crab gratin.Ipanema, 2025
Plantain milanesa.
No. 158Plantain milanesa.Ipanema, 2025
Cold coffee and kibbeh.
No. 291Cold coffee and kibbeh.Centro, 2025
Pão de queijo.
No. 299Pão de queijo.Ipanema, 2025

Feijoada on Saturday, churrasco charred hard, pao de queijo at the padaria, caipirinha with lime and cachaca. Smoke and salt anchor everything in Rio.

04  The pantry

  • Feijao preto, black beans for the Saturday feijoada
  • Cachaca, cane spirit for the caipirinha
  • Lime, muddled into caipirinhas and squeezed over everything
  • Farofa, toasted cassava flour scattered over meat and stew
  • Pao de queijo, cheese bread rolls from the padaria

05  In the kitchen

  • Slow-cooking feijoada for hours with salted pork parts
  • Muddling caipirinha lime, sugar and cachaca to order
  • Grilling picanha over churrascaria charcoal spits
  • Rolling pao de queijo cheese-tapioca dough into small buns
  • Baking bolinhos de bacalhau salt-cod fritters at every boteco

06  Eat this first

  • Feijoada, the Saturday black-bean stew with pork, rice, kale and orange
  • Pao de queijo, chewy tapioca-and-cheese buns for breakfast
  • Bolinho de bacalhau, salt-cod fritters at the corner boteco
  • Caipirinha, cachaca cocktail with lime and sugar muddled to order
  • Acai na tigela, frozen acai bowl topped with banana and granola
Map of Rio de Janeiro

Field Guide

Our curated eating guide to Rio de Janeiro. Independent spots chosen by our local tastemakers.

Coming soon

08  Stories

Dispatches from the kitchens of Rio de Janeiro.

What happens inside a hammam kitchen

A morning with the cooks who feed the neighbourhood before dawn. Charcoal, dough, the smell of a bakery working its second oven.

The bread that fed the medina

Field report

The bread that fed the medina

Learning to pour mint tea

Field report

Learning to pour mint tea

09  Recipes

A collection of authentic recipes we couldn't leave behind.

More recipes
Queijadinha
Recipe 136Rio de Janeiro

Coconut cheese bite

Queijadinha

Little baked coconut-and-cheese cups with a caramelised top. A Portuguese convent sweet that landed in Brazil and never left.

45 min · Serves 12
Madrilenho
Recipe 140Rio de Janeiro

Rio pastry sandwich

Madrilenho

Shredded roast chicken, melted mozzarella, potato palha and a slick of creamy sauce piled inside a hot roll. The São Paulo boteco chicken sandwich generations of Rua Piauí counters made famous.

1 hr · Serves 4
Pastel de Carne
Recipe 134Rio de Janeiro

Fried beef pastry

Pastel de Carne

Thin, crackling pastry deep-fried around a ground-beef filling. The classic feirinha snack, sold with sugarcane juice on Saturday mornings.

1 hr 30 min · Serves 6
Brigadeiro
Recipe 132Rio de Janeiro

Chocolate fudge truffle

Brigadeiro

Chocolate condensed milk cooked down to fudge, rolled into balls, coated in sprinkles. The birthday-party sweet every Brazilian grew up on.

45 min · Serves 30
Cocada
Recipe 126Rio de Janeiro

Coconut candy

Cocada

Fresh coconut cooked slowly with sugar until chewy and caramelised. The beach sweet sold by Salvador's Baianas straight from the pan.

45 min · Serves 10
Mortadela com Queijo
Recipe 133Rio de Janeiro

Mortadella cheese sandwich

Mortadela com Queijo

Half a kilo of thin-sliced mortadella and melted provolone piled inside a small French roll. The Mercadão Municipal's single most famous order.

20 min · Serves 4

10  Field Notes

Quick field notes to help you get accustomed to Rio de Janeiro.

Boteco chef.
No. 283Boteco chef.Rio de Janeiro, 2025
1

Weather

Tropical. Hot humid summers (December–March, 35°C+) and mild winters (18–25°C). October to April is peak beach; June to August is drier and cooler.

2

Currency

The Brazilian real (BRL). Cards accepted almost everywhere. PIX (instant transfer) dominates for locals. Travellers can use cards.

3

Language

Portuguese (Brazilian). English coverage is decent in Copacabana, Ipanema, and Leblon, thinner elsewhere. Spanish speakers are understood but respond in Portuguese.

4

Etiquette

Warm and physical. Kisses on both cheeks are standard greetings. Be street-smart, don't display valuables, especially on the beach. Use Uber after dark.

5

Getting around

The metro is fast, cheap, and covers Copacabana / Ipanema / Centro. Uber is reliable. Buses are cheap but confusing. Walk the beach, don't walk between neighbourhoods at night.

6

Prayer

Predominantly Catholic, with strong Candomblé, Umbanda, and Evangelical traditions. The Christ the Redeemer statue is the city's spiritual landmark. The New Year Yemanjá offerings on Copacabana are a Candomblé highlight.