Welcome to the new home of A Chef's Tour. Bigger, bolder and tastier than ever.

Nairobi

Goat crackles over glowing charcoal, smoky maize roasts above open flames and fresh kachumbari is chopped to order.

Nyama choma, off the grill.
No. 691Nyama choma, off the grill.Nairobi, 2025
“The food tour was amazing, I got to try a lot different types of local foods. Everything I tried was delicious my two favourites were Nyama Choma and Uji.”

— Anton, 2026

01  Food tours

Original food tours, curated with our local tastemakers to showcase the neighbourhood kitchens, markets and family-run eateries that define Nairobi.

Karibu Kitchens
Lunch Food TourNo. 001

Karibu Kitchens

Nairobi

US $55(NEW)

Explore Nairobi's fire kitchen — nyama choma, ugali, sukuma wiki and mursik.

4 Hours15+ Tastings

02  Meet the tastemakers

The local food experts who help us research, refine and lead every A Chef's Tour.

Leley Amos Brian

head guide

Jeen Gichuhi

guide

Third Nairobi Guide

guide

03  Field archive

Archived photographs from our tours and the Nairobi food scene that tell you what the city actually tastes like.

Outdoor kitchen.
No. 612Outdoor kitchen.Nairobi, 2025
The city cookhouse.
No. 385The city cookhouse.Nairobi, 2025
Whole goat, smoked.
No. 911Whole goat, smoked.Nairobi, 2025
Ngumu line matatu.
No. 116Ngumu line matatu.Nairobi, 2025
Kilimani grill.
No. 100Kilimani grill.Nairobi, 2025
Rack of kuku choma.
No. 112Rack of kuku choma.Nairobi, 2025
Ugali on the jiko.
No. 297Ugali on the jiko.Nairobi, 2025
Ndizi at the market.
No. 318Ndizi at the market.Nairobi, 2025
Streets of Nairobi.
No. 205Streets of Nairobi.Nairobi, 2025
Githeri beans.
No. 122Githeri beans.Nairobi, 2025
Juice-bar, in motion.
No. 583Juice-bar, in motion.Nairobi, 2025
Traditional Nairobi table spread.
No. 366Traditional Nairobi table spread.Nairobi, 2025
Ndizi on the head.
No. 924Ndizi on the head.Nairobi, 2025
Chai station.
No. 920Chai station.Nairobi, 2025
Kenyan breakfast.
No. 013Kenyan breakfast.Nairobi, 2025
Pilau plate.
No. 545Pilau plate.Nairobi, 2025
Nyama choma.
No. 069Nyama choma.Nairobi, 2025
Lumumba on the wall.
No. 307Lumumba on the wall.Nairobi, 2025
Basin of mandazi.
No. 358Basin of mandazi.Nairobi, 2025
Crisp samosas.
No. 695Crisp samosas.Nairobi, 2025
Poached matoke.
No. 711Poached matoke.Nairobi, 2025
Butcher's window.
No. 976Butcher's window.Nairobi, 2025
Chopping the ribs.
No. 788Chopping the ribs.Nairobi, 2025
Butcher's band-saw.
No. 367Butcher's band-saw.Nairobi, 2025
Nairobi supper.
No. 510Nairobi supper.Nairobi, 2025
Shawarma cleaver.
No. 655Shawarma cleaver.Nairobi, 2025
Maasai market alley.
No. 139Maasai market alley.Nairobi, 2025
Freshly caught tilapia.
No. 466Freshly caught tilapia.Nairobi, 2025
The Nairobi spread.
No. 918The Nairobi spread.Nairobi, 2025

Nyama choma grilled over acacia charcoal, ugali stiff maize porridge, sukuma wiki greens, mursik fermented milk. Nairobi's kitchen is meat, maize and open fire.

04  The pantry

  • Acacia charcoal, hardwood coals for the nyama choma grill
  • Ugali, stiff maize porridge that anchors every plate
  • Sukuma wiki, collard greens sauteed with onion and tomato
  • Kachumbari, tomato and onion salsa dressed with lime
  • Pilau masala, coastal spice blend for the Nairobi rice

05  In the kitchen

  • Grilling nyama choma goat over acacia coals until crackling
  • Cooking ugali until it pulls cleanly from the pot
  • Braising mutura blood sausage on the roadside brazier
  • Frying mandazi triangles of sweet fried dough
  • Simmering githeri maize and beans slow for the household lunch

06  Eat this first

  • Nyama choma, charcoal-grilled goat eaten by hand with ugali
  • Ugali sukuma, maize porridge with sauteed collard greens
  • Chapati, Kenyan-style layered flatbread eaten with beef stew
  • Mandazi, cardamom-scented fried dough triangles for breakfast
  • Mutura, Kikuyu blood sausage roasted on the roadside brazier
Map of Nairobi

Field Guide

Our curated eating guide to Nairobi. Independent spots chosen by our local tastemakers.

Coming soon

08  Stories

Dispatches from the kitchens of Nairobi.

What happens inside a hammam kitchen

A morning with the cooks who feed the neighbourhood before dawn. Charcoal, dough, the smell of a bakery working its second oven.

The bread that fed the medina

Field report

The bread that fed the medina

Learning to pour mint tea

Field report

Learning to pour mint tea

09  Recipes

A collection of authentic recipes we couldn't leave behind.

More recipes
Githeri
Recipe 238Nairobi

Beans and maize stew

Githeri

Boiled maize and mixed beans simmered slowly with onions, tomatoes and a spoon of oil. Central Kenya's simplest, most-eaten meal.

2 hrs · Serves 6
Samaki wa Kupaka
Recipe 237Nairobi

Coconut curry fish

Samaki wa Kupaka

Whole fish grilled hot, then bathed in a thick coconut-and-tamarind sauce spiked with garlic, ginger and chilli. Swahili coast's Sunday-lunch dish.

1 hr · Serves 4
Supu ya Kuku
Recipe 236Nairobi

Swahili chicken soup

Supu ya Kuku

Chicken simmered slowly with onion, ginger, garlic, lime and coriander into a fragrant broth. Kenya's Sunday chicken soup, served with mashed potato.

1 hr 30 min · Serves 4
Viazi Karai
Recipe 235Nairobi

Battered fried potatoes

Viazi Karai

Boiled potato coated in a turmeric-yellow gram flour batter and deep-fried until crackling. Mombasa's street snack, always with tamarind chutney.

45 min · Serves 4
Samaki wa Nazi
Recipe 234Nairobi

Coconut fish stew

Samaki wa Nazi

White fish poached gently in coconut milk with tomato, onion, tamarind and coriander. The everyday Swahili coast supper.

45 min · Serves 4
Halwa
Recipe 233Nairobi

Sweet cornstarch pudding

Halwa

A dense, translucent sweet of cornstarch, sugar and ghee, scented with cardamom and saffron and studded with pistachios. Zanzibar's celebration sweet, now equally at home in Mombasa.

1 hr · Serves 12

10  Field Notes

Quick field notes to help you get accustomed to Nairobi.

Nyama choma knife work.
No. 800Nyama choma knife work.Nairobi, 2025
1

Weather

Cool highland climate at 1,800 m. Days are warm (22–26°C) and nights can drop to 10°C. Long rains April–May, short rains October–November. The rest of the year is dry and sunny.

2

Currency

The Kenyan shilling (KES). Cards accepted in most restaurants and hotels. M-Pesa is everywhere. Pay for taxis, coffee, and bills from your phone.

3

Language

Swahili and English are both official. English dominates business, Swahili the streets. Simple Swahili greetings go a long way.

4

Etiquette

Friendly and direct, but be safety-conscious. Don't walk after dark, keep phones tucked away in busy areas, and use Uber or Bolt.

5

Getting around

Uber, Bolt, and Little Cab all work. Matatus (colourful minibuses) are the local backbone but confusing for visitors. Traffic (the infamous 'jam') can double journey times, build in a buffer.

6

Prayer

Predominantly Christian. Sundays fill the churches and quiet the streets. Muslim and Hindu communities are sizeable; Friday prayers are heard around Eastleigh.