Welcome to the new home of A Chef's Tour. Bigger, bolder and tastier than ever.

Mombasa

Coconut milk bubbles into fragrant curries, cassava crackles in hot oil and smoky mishkaki grills over glowing charcoal.

Swahili breakfast.
No. 660Swahili breakfast.Mombasa, 2025
“An excellent food tour that covers the breadth of culture in Mombasa!”

— Geena, 2025

01  Food tours

Original food tours, curated with our local tastemakers to showcase the neighbourhood kitchens, markets and family-run eateries that define Mombasa.

Sultan’s Spoon
Lunch Food TourNo. 001

Sultan’s Spoon

Mombasa

US $49(NEW)

Eat Mombasa at lunchtime — Swahili biryani, mahamri and viazi karai from the seafront.

4 Hours15+ Tastings
Mombasa Meals
Supper Food TourNo. 002

Mombasa Meals

Mombasa

US $49(NEW)

Taste Mombasa's Swahili coast — biryani, mahamri, viazi karai and tamarind juice.

4 Hours15+ Tastings

02  Meet the tastemakers

The local food experts who help us research, refine and lead every A Chef's Tour.

Bishamba Juma

head guide

Samira Juma

guide

03  Field archive

Archived photographs from our tours and the Mombasa food scene that tell you what the city actually tastes like.

Mishkaki grilling over charcoal.
No. 169Mishkaki grilling over charcoal.Mombasa, 2025
Mkulima fruit stand.
No. 984Mkulima fruit stand.Mombasa, 2025
Bhajia mix scoop.
No. 344Bhajia mix scoop.Mombasa, 2025
Baraka cereals.
No. 898Baraka cereals.Mombasa, 2025
The spice market.
No. 913The spice market.Mombasa, 2025
Working in the market.
No. 410Working in the market.Mombasa, 2025
Mahamri & mandazi.
No. 216Mahamri & mandazi.Mombasa, 2025
Uncle at the grill.
No. 481Uncle at the grill.Mombasa, 2025
Saucing mishkaki.
No. 596Saucing mishkaki.Mombasa, 2025
Chilli condiments.
No. 527Chilli condiments.Mombasa, 2025
Preparing paan.
No. 611Preparing paan.Mombasa, 2025
Chevda plates.
No. 452Chevda plates.Mombasa, 2025
Swahili fruit plate.
No. 870Swahili fruit plate.Mombasa, 2025
Biryani spread.
No. 894Biryani spread.Mombasa, 2025
Matatu portraits.
No. 872Matatu portraits.Mombasa, 2025
Wood-fire wok.
No. 086Wood-fire wok.Mombasa, 2025
Bhajia bowl.
No. 464Bhajia bowl.Mombasa, 2025
The biryani crew.
No. 739The biryani crew.Mombasa, 2025
Terracotta pot aunty.
No. 038Terracotta pot aunty.Mombasa, 2025
Samaki wa kupaka.
No. 189Samaki wa kupaka.Mombasa, 2025
Coffee by the water.
No. 646Coffee by the water.Mombasa, 2025
Katlesi in the fryer.
No. 997Katlesi in the fryer.Mombasa, 2025
Mishkaki, downtown.
No. 151Mishkaki, downtown.Mombasa, 2025
Aunty working the fryer.
No. 015Aunty working the fryer.Mombasa, 2025
Street market.
No. 458Street market.Mombasa, 2025
Mombasa-style octopus.
No. 823Mombasa-style octopus.Mombasa, 2025
Boiled octupus street stall.
No. 070Boiled octupus street stall.Mombasa, 2025
Grilled pweza.
No. 306Grilled pweza.Mombasa, 2025
Sticky halwa.
No. 652Sticky halwa.Mombasa, 2025
Lunchtime Mombasa spread.
No. 201Lunchtime Mombasa spread.Mombasa, 2025
Chapati on coals.
No. 365Chapati on coals.Mombasa, 2025
Slow-cooked Kenyan biriyani.
No. 288Slow-cooked Kenyan biriyani.Mombasa, 2025
Since 1895.
No. 248Since 1895.Mombasa, 2025
Coconut beans and chapati.
No. 700Coconut beans and chapati.Mombasa, 2025
Historic spice market.
No. 457Historic spice market.Mombasa, 2025
Uncle selling fruit.
No. 026Uncle selling fruit.Mombasa, 2025
Coconut-cooked fish.
No. 706Coconut-cooked fish.Mombasa, 2025
Kenyan jackfruit.
No. 924Kenyan jackfruit.Mombasa, 2025
William Ruto, president of Kenya.
No. 116William Ruto, president of Kenya.Mombasa, 2025
Rolling chapatis.
No. 033Rolling chapatis.Mombasa, 2025

Biryani made with the coast's Swahili spice, mahamri cardamom doughnuts, viazi karai fried potato in gram flour, tamarind juice at the seafront. Mombasa cooks with Arabian, Indian and African inheritance side by side.

04  The pantry

  • Coconut milk, pressed daily for Swahili curries
  • Tamarind, sour pulp folded into fish and prawn curries
  • Pilau masala, coastal spice mix of cumin, cardamom and cloves
  • Fresh curry leaves, snapped fresh into every tarka
  • Cardamom, whole pods steeped into mahamri and chai

05  In the kitchen

  • Simmering samaki wa kupaka fish in coconut milk and tamarind
  • Frying mahamri cardamom doughnuts in triangles
  • Slow-cooking pilau rice with meat and coastal spice
  • Steaming vitumbua rice-flour cakes in tiny cast-iron cups
  • Grinding viazi karai potato batter with turmeric for the deep fry

06  Eat this first

  • Biryani, Swahili biryani heavy with cardamom and clove
  • Samaki wa kupaka, whole fish grilled and finished in coconut sauce
  • Mahamri, cardamom coconut doughnuts eaten with bean stew
  • Viazi karai, batter-fried potatoes dipped in tamarind chutney
  • Kaimati, syrup-drenched fried dough balls scented with cardamom
Map of Mombasa

Field Guide

Our curated eating guide to Mombasa. Independent spots chosen by our local tastemakers.

Coming soon

08  Stories

Dispatches from the kitchens of Mombasa.

What happens inside a hammam kitchen

A morning with the cooks who feed the neighbourhood before dawn. Charcoal, dough, the smell of a bakery working its second oven.

The bread that fed the medina

Field report

The bread that fed the medina

Learning to pour mint tea

Field report

Learning to pour mint tea

09  Recipes

A collection of authentic recipes we couldn't leave behind.

More recipes
Githeri
Recipe 238Mombasa

Beans and maize stew

Githeri

Boiled maize and mixed beans simmered slowly with onions, tomatoes and a spoon of oil. Central Kenya's simplest, most-eaten meal.

2 hrs · Serves 6
Samaki wa Kupaka
Recipe 237Mombasa

Coconut curry fish

Samaki wa Kupaka

Whole fish grilled hot, then bathed in a thick coconut-and-tamarind sauce spiked with garlic, ginger and chilli. Swahili coast's Sunday-lunch dish.

1 hr · Serves 4
Supu ya Kuku
Recipe 236Mombasa

Swahili chicken soup

Supu ya Kuku

Chicken simmered slowly with onion, ginger, garlic, lime and coriander into a fragrant broth. Kenya's Sunday chicken soup, served with mashed potato.

1 hr 30 min · Serves 4
Viazi Karai
Recipe 235Mombasa

Battered fried potatoes

Viazi Karai

Boiled potato coated in a turmeric-yellow gram flour batter and deep-fried until crackling. Mombasa's street snack, always with tamarind chutney.

45 min · Serves 4
Samaki wa Nazi
Recipe 234Mombasa

Coconut fish stew

Samaki wa Nazi

White fish poached gently in coconut milk with tomato, onion, tamarind and coriander. The everyday Swahili coast supper.

45 min · Serves 4
Halwa
Recipe 233Mombasa

Sweet cornstarch pudding

Halwa

A dense, translucent sweet of cornstarch, sugar and ghee, scented with cardamom and saffron and studded with pistachios. Zanzibar's celebration sweet, now equally at home in Mombasa.

1 hr · Serves 12

10  Field Notes

Quick field notes to help you get accustomed to Mombasa.

Octopus vendor.
No. 325Octopus vendor.Mombasa, 2025
1

Weather

Coastal humid tropical. Warm year-round (28–32°C) with long, sunny days. Long rains fall April–June, short rains October–November. December to March is peak season.

2

Currency

The Kenyan shilling (KES). Cards work in upscale hotels but cash is standard elsewhere. M-Pesa (mobile money) is used everywhere. Set it up if you're staying a while.

3

Language

Swahili is the everyday language on the coast; English is widely spoken in tourism. Learning 'jambo' and 'asante' opens conversations.

4

Etiquette

Mombasa is Muslim-majority. Dress modestly in the Old Town and Swahili villages (cover shoulders and knees). Beach resorts are more relaxed.

5

Getting around

Tuk-tuks are the everyday city ride and cheap, matatus (minibuses) are chaotic but authentic. Uber and Bolt work in the centre; the SGR train links Mombasa to Nairobi in under five hours.

6

Prayer

Predominantly Muslim on the coast. Five calls to prayer daily, and Friday afternoon quiets the Old Town. Christian churches mark Sunday.