Welcome to the new home of A Chef's Tour. Bigger, bolder and tastier than ever.

Antigua

Wood-fired comales warm fresh tortillas, black beans simmer patiently in clay pots and cinnamon drifts from steaming cups of atol.

Flouring the bread.
No. 785Flouring the bread.Antigua, 2025

01  Food tours

Original food tours, curated with our local tastemakers to showcase the neighbourhood kitchens, markets and family-run eateries that define Antigua.

Mayan Meals
Lunch Food TourNo. 001

Mayan Meals

Antigua

US $59(NEW)

Eat Antigua at lunchtime — pepian, kak'ik and chapin tortillas off the comal.

4 Hours14+ Tastings
Pepián Plates
Supper Food TourNo. 002

Pepián Plates

Antigua

US $59(NEW)

Discover Mayan food refined by Spanish convents — pepian, kak'ik and hand-slapped chapin tortillas.

4 Hours14+ Tastings

02  Meet the tastemakers

The local food experts who help us research, refine and lead every A Chef's Tour.

Crissa Fernanda Peña Reyes

head guide

Alex Guerra García

guide

Jorge Luis Azzari Dominguez

guide

Leonel Portillo

guide

03  Field archive

Archived photographs from our tours and the Antigua food scene that tell you what the city actually tastes like.

Rich mole with plantain.
No. 771Rich mole with plantain.Antigua, 2025
Market at the golden hour.
No. 389Market at the golden hour.Antigua, 2025
Pan with Guatemalan hot chocolate.
No. 462Pan with Guatemalan hot chocolate.Antigua, 2025
Traditional Antiguan bakery.
No. 324Traditional Antiguan bakery.Antigua, 2025
El Adobe courtyard.
No. 678El Adobe courtyard.Antigua, 2025
Colourful streets.
No. 900Colourful streets.Antigua, 2025
Blue-corn quesadilla.
No. 632Blue-corn quesadilla.Antigua, 2025
Nostalgic Guatemalan sweets.
No. 934Nostalgic Guatemalan sweets.Antigua, 2025
Two aunties comal.
No. 316Two aunties comal.Antigua, 2025
Handmade pastries.
No. 732Handmade pastries.Antigua, 2025
Panadería counter.
No. 451Panadería counter.Antigua, 2025
Rich mole bowls.
No. 696Rich mole bowls.Antigua, 2025
Steamed tamales.
No. 114Steamed tamales.Antigua, 2025
Guatemalan coffee.
No. 891Guatemalan coffee.Antigua, 2025
Cafetería Rosita.
No. 699Cafetería Rosita.Antigua, 2025
Exotic Guatemalan fruits.
No. 066Exotic Guatemalan fruits.Antigua, 2025
Traditional Guatemalan stews.
No. 649Traditional Guatemalan stews.Antigua, 2025
Shuco baskets.
No. 229Shuco baskets.Antigua, 2025
Grilling the shucos.
No. 842Grilling the shucos.Antigua, 2025
Lime and chilli picosita beer.
No. 775Lime and chilli picosita beer.Antigua, 2025
Chicken-market aunties.
No. 819Chicken-market aunties.Antigua, 2025
Dried-chile market.
No. 399Dried-chile market.Antigua, 2025
Weighing the spices.
No. 686Weighing the spices.Antigua, 2025
Vintage family portraits.
No. 379Vintage family portraits.Antigua, 2025
Chile rellano spread.
No. 207Chile rellano spread.Antigua, 2025
Wood-oven baker.
No. 922Wood-oven baker.Antigua, 2025
Warming blue tortillas.
No. 555Warming blue tortillas.Antigua, 2025
Santa Catalina arch.
No. 018Santa Catalina arch.Antigua, 2025
Rainbow tortilla comal.
No. 845Rainbow tortilla comal.Antigua, 2025
Sharing chocolate and bread.
No. 788Sharing chocolate and bread.Antigua, 2025
Preparing picositas.
No. 738Preparing picositas.Antigua, 2025
Arcade sidewalk stroll.
No. 428Arcade sidewalk stroll.Antigua, 2025
Blue-corn on grill.
No. 219Blue-corn on grill.Antigua, 2025
Colourful taco spread.
No. 037Colourful taco spread.Antigua, 2025
Baker's dough tray.
No. 045Baker's dough tray.Antigua, 2025
Fruit-market aunty.
No. 816Fruit-market aunty.Antigua, 2025
Carrying wares.
No. 504Carrying wares.Antigua, 2025
Flouring the loaves.
No. 935Flouring the loaves.Antigua, 2025
Pulique de pollo and pepián.
No. 348Pulique de pollo and pepián.Antigua, 2025

Pepian rich with pumpkin seed, kak'ik turkey soup, chapin tortillas hand slapped, chocolate ground with almond. Antigua cooks Mayan food refined by Spanish convents.

04  The pantry

  • Pumpkin seeds, ground into pepian and jocon
  • Achiote, red annatto for stews and marinades
  • Miltomate, small green tomatillos for salsa
  • Ayote, native squash for pipian and stews
  • Chocolate, ground with cinnamon and almonds for the morning cup

05  In the kitchen

  • Toasting pumpkin seeds and chillies before grinding into pepian
  • Slow-simmering kak'ik turkey soup with achiote and coriander
  • Griddling handmade tortillas fresh at every meal
  • Grinding cacao with cinnamon and almond for chocolate de mesa
  • Steaming tamales colorados in banana leaf with chicken and salsa

06  Eat this first

  • Pepian rojo, seed-and-chilli stew with chicken and vegetables
  • Kak'ik, spiced turkey soup with achiote and coriander
  • Tamales colorados, banana-leaf tamales with red sauce and chicken
  • Jocon, green tomatillo and coriander chicken stew
  • Rellenitos, sweet plantain fritters stuffed with black bean paste
Map of Antigua

Field Guide

Our curated eating guide to Antigua. Independent spots chosen by our local tastemakers.

Coming soon

08  Stories

Dispatches from the kitchens of Antigua.

What happens inside a hammam kitchen

A morning with the cooks who feed the neighbourhood before dawn. Charcoal, dough, the smell of a bakery working its second oven.

The bread that fed the medina

Field report

The bread that fed the medina

Learning to pour mint tea

Field report

Learning to pour mint tea

09  Recipes

A collection of authentic recipes we couldn't leave behind.

More recipes
Pan con Frijol y Queso
Recipe 216Antigua

Bean and cheese roll

Pan con Frijol y Queso

Crusty roll split open, spread thick with refried black beans and stuffed with crumbled fresh cheese. Guatemala's morning-market breakfast, dunked in hot chocolate.

20 min · Serves 4
Pepián de Pollo
Recipe 215Antigua

Spiced chicken stew

Pepián de Pollo

Chicken slow-cooked in a thick red-brown sauce of toasted pumpkin seeds, sesame, dried chillies and roasted tomato. Guatemala's national dish, Mayan by origin.

2 hrs · Serves 6
Chocolate Caliente Artesanal
Recipe 214Antigua

Artisan hot chocolate

Chocolate Caliente Artesanal

Stone-ground cacao whisked into hot water or milk until frothy, dusted with cinnamon. Guatemala's return-to-roots hot chocolate, from the country that gave the world chocolate.

20 min · Serves 4
Chuchitos de Cerdo
Recipe 210Antigua

Small pork tamales

Chuchitos de Cerdo

Small pork tamales wrapped in corn husks and steamed, served with tomato sauce and a scatter of grated cheese. Guatemala's everyday tamal, sold at every market.

3 hrs · Serves 8
Picosita
Recipe 207Antigua

Fried tortilla salad

Picosita

Shredded cabbage salad tossed with sliced hot dog, pickled sauce and lime, served in a small plastic bag. Antigua's street-snack cure for a mid-morning appetite.

30 min · Serves 4
Atol de Elote
Recipe 211Antigua

Sweet corn drink

Atol de Elote

Fresh sweetcorn blended, strained and thickened with cinnamon and panela into a warming corn drink. Guatemala's morning-cart pour, poured hot into small cups.

30 min · Serves 6

10  Field Notes

Quick field notes to help you get accustomed to Antigua.

Baker at work.
No. 798Baker at work.Antigua, 2025
1

Weather

Highland climate at 1,500 m. Spring-like year-round (18–24°C by day, cool at night). Rainy season May to October brings afternoon storms.

2

Currency

The Guatemalan quetzal (GTQ). US dollars widely accepted but change comes in quetzales. Cash almost everywhere. Cards at mid-range restaurants and hotels.

3

Language

Spanish. English is widely spoken thanks to Antigua's Spanish schools and tourism. Kaqchikel (Mayan) is heard in the surrounding villages.

4

Etiquette

Modest dress at churches and religious sites. Bargain gently in markets (Chichicastenango, Nim Po't). Ask before photographing indigenous women, many prefer not to be photographed.

5

Getting around

The colonial centre is entirely walkable on cobbled streets. Tuk-tuks work for short trips outside the centre; shared shuttles run to Lake Atitlán and other destinations.

6

Prayer

Deeply Catholic with Mayan traditions layered underneath. Holy Week processions are among the most elaborate in the world, with alfombras (sawdust carpets) laid on the streets.