Destination
Antigua
The story
Chuchitos are the everyday tamal of Guatemala: small parcels of corn masa wrapped in dried corn husks (hoja de tuza), each stuffed with a spoon of shredded pork in a red recado (tomato-and-chile sauce) and steamed together in a big pot for a couple of hours. Served on a plate with an extra ladle of the recado spooned over the top and a generous scatter of grated hard cheese (queso seco or parmesan as a substitute). Sold at every market stall in the country from morning until early afternoon.
Method
Combine the pork chunks with the quartered onion, garlic, bay leaf, salt and cold water in a large pot. Bring to a simmer and cook 60 to 75 minutes until fork-tender. Lift the pork out, reserve the cooking stock (strained). Shred the pork with two forks.
Drain the soaked chillies. Blend the tomatoes, tomatillos, drained chillies, chopped onion, garlic, cumin and salt to a smooth sauce. Warm the oil in a wide pan over medium heat, stir in the achiote, then add the blended sauce. Simmer 15 minutes until thick and deep red. Add the shredded pork and stir to coat. Take off the heat.
In a large bowl, combine the masa harina, salt and baking powder. Slowly add the warm pork stock, stirring with a wooden spoon, until it forms a soft dough (like thick porridge). Beat in the melted lard until smooth and light. The masa should be spoonable and hold a shape when scooped.
Take a soaked corn husk, shake off excess water. Spread 2 tablespoons of masa in the centre of the husk in a rough rectangle (about 8cm x 5cm). Spoon a heaped teaspoon of pork-and-recado filling in the middle. Fold the sides of the husk over the filling to enclose it, then fold the ends up. Tie with a thin strip of soaked husk if the parcel won't stay closed on its own.
Set a steamer rack in the bottom of a very large pot. Add water to just below the rack. Stack the chuchitos loosely on the rack, standing them upright if possible. Cover tightly and steam over medium-low heat for 90 minutes to 2 hours, topping up the water every 30 minutes.
Lift the chuchitos onto plates. Serve 2 or 3 per person. Ladle a spoon of extra warm recado over the top and scatter with generous grated queso seco. Let each guest unwrap their own.
Tips
- Reserve and use the pork stock in the masa. Water works, but the stock is what carries all the pork flavour into the masa layer. Straining and reusing is the professional touch.
- Warm liquid for the masa. Cold water makes the masa harina clump and dry. Warm stock hydrates evenly and gives you a smooth, spreadable dough.
- Melt the lard, don't rub it in. Beating melted lard into the wet masa gives the finished chuchito its light, airy texture. Cold lard rubbed in makes a denser, crumblier tamal.
- Corn husks must be pliable before wrapping. 30 minutes in warm water is the minimum; overnight is better. Dry husks crack and split as you fold.
- Freeze extras. Chuchitos freeze perfectly wrapped in cling film. Reheat from frozen in a steamer for 20 minutes, still in their husks.
More recipes
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Large corn masa parcels wrapped in banana leaves, filled with slow-cooked pork in a rich red recado. Guatemala's Sunday and Christmas Eve dish.
Ripe plantains fried, then simmered in a sweet chocolate-and-chilli mole sauce. Guatemala's Semana Santa dessert, closer to a rich pudding than a savoury main.
Chicken slow-cooked in a thick red-brown sauce of toasted pumpkin seeds, sesame, dried chillies and roasted tomato. Guatemala's national dish, Mayan by origin.
Shredded cabbage salad tossed with sliced hot dog, pickled sauce and lime, served in a small plastic bag. Antigua's street-snack cure for a mid-morning appetite.
Steamed "basket tacos" — soft tortillas stuffed with potato-chorizo, refried beans or chicharrón, packed hot into a cloth-lined basket. CDMX's morning bike-cart snack.







