Destination
Antigua
The story
Jocón is one of Guatemala's most emblematic Mayan dishes: chicken simmered slowly in a bright green sauce built from blitzed tomatillos, fresh coriander, spring onion, garlic, chilli and (crucially) toasted pumpkin seeds that thicken the sauce into a rich, verdant coating. The name comes from the K'iche' language and roughly translates to "green sauce". Served over white rice with warm tortillas on the side and a slice of lime, sometimes with a sprinkle of grated hard cheese.
Method
Combine the chicken, onion, garlic, bay leaf, salt and cold water in a large pot. Bring to a gentle simmer and poach 30 minutes until cooked through. Lift the chicken out. Strain and reserve the cooking stock.
In a dry heavy pan over medium heat, toast the pumpkin seeds first, stirring often, for 3 to 4 minutes until deep gold and starting to pop. Transfer to a plate. Toast the sesame seeds the same way, 2 to 3 minutes, watching closely.
In the same dry pan (or under a hot grill), char the tomatillos, green pepper and chillies briefly on all sides until blackened in patches, about 4 to 5 minutes. This adds smoke.
In a blender, combine the charred tomatillos, pepper and chillies, the coriander, spring onions, garlic, toasted pumpkin seeds, toasted sesame seeds, cumin and salt with 300ml of the reserved chicken stock. Blend on high for 60 seconds until as smooth as your blender manages.
Warm the oil in a large heavy pot over medium heat. Pour in the blended green sauce (careful of splatters). Cook 15 to 20 minutes, stirring often, until darkened slightly and thickened noticeably.
Return the chicken pieces to the pot and turn to coat in the sauce. Add another 200ml of the reserved stock if needed to loosen. Simmer another 10 minutes for the flavours to marry.
Plate a mound of white rice with a chicken piece on top. Spoon over generous green sauce. Add lime wedges and warm tortillas on the side, plus a scatter of grated cheese if using.
Tips
- Toast the seeds. This is the whole flavour foundation. Untoasted pumpkin and sesame seeds give you a grassy, less integrated sauce. Toasted seeds give jocón its specific nutty depth.
- Char the tomatillos and pepper. Even a quick 4-minute char adds a smoky background that untouched-fresh tomatillos can't provide. Under a hot grill or in a dry pan both work.
- Blend thoroughly. Small chunks in a jocón sauce read as grit rather than texture. Blend on high for at least 60 seconds; strain if your blender doesn't get it fully smooth.
- Reserve the chicken stock. Water works, but the poaching stock carries the chicken flavour into the sauce and makes the whole dish taste more integrated.
- Better on day two. Like most Guatemalan slow-cooked dishes, jocón improves overnight as the sauce thickens and the flavours deepen. Make on Saturday for Sunday lunch.
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