Destination
Cuenca
The story
Papas con cuero ("potatoes with skin") is one of the most unassuming and satisfying dishes of the Ecuadorian Sierra. Boiled pork skin (cuero) simmered slowly with small waxy potatoes in a broth of onion, garlic, achiote, cumin and cilantro until the pork skin turns tender and the sauce thickens to a golden, gelatinous coating that clings to every potato. Served with a hard-boiled egg on the side, a scatter of coriander and a small dish of ají de tomate de árbol. Cheap, humble, deeply local.
Method
Place the pork skin in a large pot with the vinegar, salt and cold water to cover. Bring to a boil and cook 30 minutes. Drain, rinse well under cold water, and cut into slightly smaller pieces if the squares have shrunk unevenly.
Warm the achiote oil in a large heavy pot over medium heat. Add the onion, spring onion and cook 5 minutes until soft. Add the garlic, cumin, salt and pepper. Cook 1 minute more.
Add the pre-boiled pork skin and stir to coat in the coloured oil. Pour in the stock and bring to a simmer.
Add the potatoes to the pot. The liquid should just cover them; add more stock if not. Cover with a lid and simmer 40 to 50 minutes over low heat, until the potatoes are fork-tender and the pork skin has softened and released its collagen into the sauce.
Uncover and simmer another 10 minutes if the sauce is thin. It should be thick and glossy, coating the potatoes when you stir.
Stir in most of the chopped coriander. Taste for salt.
Ladle into wide bowls. Add half a hard-boiled egg to each portion. Scatter with remaining coriander. Serve with ají de tomate de árbol on the side and bread to mop up the sauce.
Tips
- Ask the butcher for pre-cleaned pork skin. Latin butchers stock cuero specifically for this kind of dish, already cleaned. If it still has bristles, scrape them off with a sharp knife before cooking.
- The vinegar first boil removes any smell. 30 minutes in acidic water is enough to neutralise any strong pork-skin odour. Rinse well after draining.
- Small waxy potatoes hold shape. Floury potatoes disintegrate into the sauce, which is a different (also good) dish but not classic papas con cuero. Baby new potatoes or the Ecuadorian papa chola are ideal.
- Achiote is the Ecuadorian identity marker. Its orange colour turns a beige stew into something specifically Ecuadorian. Sold at Latin grocers.
- Ají de tomate de árbol is the traditional condiment. This is a Sierra-specific hot sauce made from the small red tomato tree fruit. If unavailable, any ají picante or fresh salsa verde works.
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