Destination
Luang Prabang
The story
Nam wan ("sweet water") is the Lao afternoon drink-dessert: coconut milk sweetened with palm sugar and salted lightly for balance, poured into a tall glass over crushed ice and a spooned layer of chewy toppings (tapioca pearls, red beans, mung beans, cubes of pandan-scented jelly, sweet corn kernels, banana slices, jackfruit strips), stirred and drunk with a spoon. Sold from carts across Lao afternoon markets, especially at Luang Prabang's night market and Vientiane's morning markets, and made at home in Lao kitchens during the humid months. Halfway between a drink and a dessert; cooling to eat, sweet enough to feel like a treat.
Method
Warm the coconut milk in a small saucepan over low heat with the palm sugar and salt. Whisk until the sugar dissolves. Add the water. Warm 3 minutes until the flavours meld (don't boil hard). Cool completely.
Have all your chosen toppings prepared and in small bowls: cooked tapioca pearls (rinsed and cool), drained beans, drained corn, jelly cubes, sliced fruit. Everything should be at room temperature or chilled.
Once cool, transfer the coconut milk base to a jug and refrigerate at least 1 hour. Serve properly cold.
Fill 4 tall glasses halfway with crushed ice. Spoon in generous portions of your chosen toppings, layering them slightly (about 3 tablespoons of each per glass).
Pour the chilled coconut base over the top of each glass, filling to just below the rim. Give each glass a brief stir with a long spoon to mix. Serve immediately with a long spoon.
Tips
- Full-fat coconut milk, not light. Full-fat gives the drink body and richness. Light coconut milk turns it thin and watery.
- Palm sugar is essential. The molasses depth of palm sugar is what makes the drink taste specifically Southeast Asian. White sugar is flat and one-note.
- Salt in the base is what makes it Lao. A teaspoon of salt in the coconut milk isn't a mistake; it balances the sweetness and turns the drink from cloying to refreshing.
- Buy most toppings pre-made. Southeast Asian grocers sell cooked tapioca pearls, pandan jelly, tinned beans and canned corn in the fridge or shelf-stable sections. The dish comes together in 15 minutes if you don't try to make everything from scratch.
- Serve immediately. The ice melts fast and dilutes the coconut base. Assemble at the last minute; don't try to hold nam wan for later.
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