Welcome to the new home of A Chef's Tour. Bigger, bolder and tastier than ever.

Oaxaca

Charcoal crackles, roasted pasilla chillies perfume the air and hands move with practiced rhythm, shaping fresh masa.

Preparing chocolate-atole.
No. 527Preparing chocolate-atole.Mercado De La Merced, 2025
“This tour is special because it's authentic, not a typical tourist experience. ”

— Douglas, 2026

01  Food tours

Original food tours, curated with our local tastemakers to showcase the neighbourhood kitchens, markets and family-run eateries that define Oaxaca.

Taste Oaxaca
Lunch Food TourNo. 001

Taste Oaxaca

Oaxaca

US $59(NEW)

Eat Oaxaca at lunchtime — fresh masa, seven moles and comal-charred chillies.

4 Hours15+ Tastings
Oaxaca Streets
Supper Food TourNo. 002

Oaxaca Streets

Oaxaca

US $69(NEW)

Discover Oaxaca's reverence for corn — fresh masa, smoky chillies and hoja santa herbs.

4 Hours14+ Tastings

02  Meet the tastemakers

The local food experts who help us research, refine and lead every A Chef's Tour.

Dora María Conde Flores

head guide

Alejandra Gómez

guide

Caleb Vásquez

guide

03  Field archive

Archived photographs from our tours and the Oaxaca food scene that tell you what the city actually tastes like.

On the charcoal comal.
No. 085On the charcoal comal.Mercado De La Merced, 2026
Oaxaca streets
No. 960Oaxaca streetsCentro, 2025
Grinding cacao.
No. 659Grinding cacao.Centro, 2026
Molinos La Merced.
No. 116Molinos La Merced.La Merced, 2025
Fried garnachas.
No. 663Fried garnachas.La Merced, 2025
A table-side shrine.
No. 774A table-side shrine.Centro, 2025
Drinking tejate.
No. 602Drinking tejate.Centro, 2025
Drinking tejate.
No. 170Drinking tejate.Centro, 2025
Night time tacos.
No. 164Night time tacos.Centro, 2025
The food heroes.
No. 238The food heroes.La Merced, 2026
Frothy chocolate-atole.
No. 834Frothy chocolate-atole.Mercado De La Merced, 2025
Afternoon light.
No. 187Afternoon light.Centro, 2026
First bite of tlayuda.
No. 605First bite of tlayuda.Mercado De La Merced, 2026
Toasting tlayudas.
No. 438Toasting tlayudas.Centro, 2025
Oaxacan grasshoppers.
No. 540Oaxacan grasshoppers.Mercado De La Merced, 2025
Lunch beneath Guadalupe.
No. 785Lunch beneath Guadalupe.Centro, 2025
Street-side tacos.
No. 322Street-side tacos.Centro, 2025
A mural in Centro.
No. 355A mural in Centro.Centro, 2025
The torta cart.
No. 425The torta cart.Centro, 2025
Freshly poured chocolate-atole.
No. 159Freshly poured chocolate-atole.Mercado De La Merced, 2026
Slicing tlayudas.
No. 719Slicing tlayudas.Centro, 2025
Freshly ground cacao.
No. 818Freshly ground cacao.Centro, 2025
A spread of memelas.
No. 199A spread of memelas.Centro, 2025

Fresh masa, smoky chillies, wood-fired comales, herbs like hoja santa. Nowhere else on earth treats corn with the reverence of Oaxaca.

04  The pantry

  • Masa, fresh nixtamalised corn dough
  • Pasilla Oaxaqueña chillies, smoky and deeply aromatic
  • Quesillo, Oaxaca's famous string cheese
  • Hoja santa, fragrant leaves with anise notes
  • Black beans, slow-cooked and spread onto everything
  • Oaxacan chocolate, stone-ground with cinnamon and almonds

05  In the kitchen

  • Nixtamalising corn before stone-grinding it into fresh masa
  • Toasting tortillas and memelas over charcoal-fired comales
  • Grinding cacao, cinnamon and almonds into frothy chocolate-atole
  • Wrapping tetelas and tamales before cooking them on the griddle or steaming in leaves

06  Eat this first

  • Tlayudas, charcoal-toasted and generously topped
  • Memelas, hand-shaped corn rounds with beans, salsa and quesillo
  • Tetelas, folded blue-corn pockets stuffed with beans and cheese
  • Mole negro, Oaxaca's most celebrated and complex sauce
  • Chocolate-atole, a warm blend of stone-ground cacao and maize
Map of Oaxaca

Field Guide

Our curated eating guide to Oaxaca. Independent spots chosen by our local tastemakers.

Coming soon

08  Stories

Dispatches from the kitchens of Oaxaca.

What happens inside a hammam kitchen

A morning with the cooks who feed the neighbourhood before dawn. Charcoal, dough, the smell of a bakery working its second oven.

The bread that fed the medina

Field report

The bread that fed the medina

Learning to pour mint tea

Field report

Learning to pour mint tea

09  Recipes

A collection of authentic recipes we couldn't leave behind.

More recipes
Tamal Rojo de Puerco
Recipe 302Oaxaca

Red pork tamal

Tamal Rojo de Puerco

Fluffy corn masa filled with pork shredded in red guajillo-ancho salsa, wrapped in corn husks and steamed. The classical Mexican tamal, red edition.

4 hrs · Serves 8
Tostiesquite
Recipe 105Oaxaca

Topped street nachos

Tostiesquite

Oaxaca's street mash-up: a crunchy tostada base piled with hot esquite corn, mayo, cheese, lime and chile. The prehispanic dish gets a modern platform.

40 min · Serves 4
Panuchos de Pavo
Recipe 309Oaxaca

Turkey bean-stuffed tortilla

Panuchos de Pavo

Fried tortillas stuffed with black beans and topped with shredded turkey, pickled red onion and avocado — the Yucatán's crunchy answer to the tostada.

1 hr 30 min · Serves 4
Agua Fresca
Recipe 282Oaxaca

Fresh fruit water

Agua Fresca

Fresh fruit blended with water and a splash of lime — the mercado thirst-quencher. Jamaica, horchata, tamarindo, sandía or piña, poured from big glass tanks.

30 min · Serves 8
Flan Napolitano
Recipe 298Oaxaca

Mexican caramel custard

Flan Napolitano

A silky caramel-topped custard, richer and denser than the European original. Mexico's most-eaten dessert, born in nuns' kitchens 300 years ago.

1 hr 30 min · Serves 6
Tacos al Pastor
Recipe 295Oaxaca

Spit-grilled pineapple pork tacos

Tacos al Pastor

Pineapple-marinated pork carved off a spinning vertical trompo, caught on a small tortilla with a flick of chopped pineapple, onion and coriander. Mexico City's most famous taco.

8 hrs · Serves 6

10  Field Notes

Quick field notes to help you get accustomed to Oaxaca.

Cacao mill.
No. 553Cacao mill.Oaxaca, 2025
1

Weather

Highland climate at 1,550 m. Mild year-round (20–28°C by day). Rainy season June to September brings afternoon storms; dry season is October to May.

2

Currency

The Mexican peso (MXN). Cash for markets, street food, and mezcalerías. Cards for restaurants and hotels.

3

Language

Spanish. Sixteen indigenous languages spoken in the state (Zapotec and Mixtec the largest). English coverage is decent in tourism.

4

Etiquette

Warm and traditional. Ask before photographing indigenous women. Bargain gently in markets. Be respectful of the mezcal-making process (it's spiritual, not just industrial).

5

Getting around

The historic centre is compact and walkable. Colectivos and taxis cover the wider valley cheaply. DiDi app works. The Sierra Norte requires 4WD or an organised tour.

6

Prayer

Catholic layered over deep indigenous traditions. Day of the Dead (Día de Muertos) here is the country's most authentic and moving observance. Guelaguetza in July is a spiritual-cultural festival.