Welcome to the new home of A Chef's Tour. Bigger, bolder and tastier than ever.

Cuenca

Corn toasts on hot griddles, pork crackles beside bubbling pots of mote and fresh herbs perfume hearty Andean kitchens.

Vendor at work.
No. 071Vendor at work.Mercado 3 De Noviembre, 2025
“My food tour with Cuenca Kitchens was one of my best ever experiences.”

— Luzanne, 2025

01  Food tours

Original food tours, curated with our local tastemakers to showcase the neighbourhood kitchens, markets and family-run eateries that define Cuenca.

Cuenca Table
Lunch Food TourNo. 001

Cuenca Table

Cuenca

US $55(NEW)

Eat Cuenca at lunchtime — cuy, mote pillo and morocho from the corn table.

4 Hours15+ Tastings
Cuenca Kitchens
Supper Food TourNo. 002

Cuenca Kitchens

Cuenca

US $59(NEW)

Explore Cuenca's corn and pork kitchen — cuy on the spit, mote pillo and humitas.

4 Hours14+ Tastings

02  Meet the tastemakers

The local food experts who help us research, refine and lead every A Chef's Tour.

Martin Avila

head guide

Silvia Sgariboldi

guide

03  Field archive

Archived photographs from our tours and the Cuenca food scene that tell you what the city actually tastes like.

Ecuadorian coastal soup.
No. 518Ecuadorian coastal soup.Mercado 3 De Noviembre, 2025
Espumilla de guayaba.
No. 376Espumilla de guayaba.Centro, 2025
Old-school bakery.
No. 028Old-school bakery.Centro, 2025
Seco de chivo lamb stew.
No. 186Seco de chivo lamb stew.Centro, 2025
Hominy corn with pork fat.
No. 270Hominy corn with pork fat.Centro, 2025
'Wind' empanada.
No. 719'Wind' empanada.Centro, 2025
Succulent hornado pork.
No. 633Succulent hornado pork.Mercado 3 De Noviembre, 2025
Drip coffee.
No. 761Drip coffee.Centro, 2025
Corviche de pescado.
No. 158Corviche de pescado.Centro, 2025
Making bolon de queso.
No. 336Making bolon de queso.Centro, 2025
Papas con cuero with rice.
No. 985Papas con cuero with rice.Centro, 2025
Sweet granadilla.
No. 310Sweet granadilla.Centro, 2025
Fruits from Amazon to Andes.
No. 487Fruits from Amazon to Andes.Mercado 10 De Agosto, 2025
Flower vendor.
No. 635Flower vendor.Mercado 10 De Agosto, 2025
Twilight in Cuenco.
No. 206Twilight in Cuenco.Centro, 2025
Pan-fried corn choclo.
No. 307Pan-fried corn choclo.Mercado 10 De Agosto, 2025
Flower market.
No. 555Flower market.Centro, 2025
Roasted pork and Andean potatoes.
No. 032Roasted pork and Andean potatoes.Mercado 3 De Noviembre, 2025
View of Cuenca.
No. 777View of Cuenca.Centro, 2025
Jugo de coco.
No. 666Jugo de coco.Mercado 3 De Noviembre, 2025
Amazonian juices.
No. 390Amazonian juices.Mercado 3 De Noviembre, 2025
Roasted hornado.
No. 355Roasted hornado.Mercado 3 De Noviembre, 2025
Streets of Cuenca.
No. 088Streets of Cuenca.Centro, 2025
Proud street vendor.
No. 197Proud street vendor.Centro, 2025
Fruit vendor.
No. 389Fruit vendor.Mercado 9 De Octubre, 2025
Cuenca's tram.
No. 337Cuenca's tram.Centro, 2025
Vendors at work.
No. 073Vendors at work.Mercado 9 De Octubre, 2025
Andean potatoes.
No. 496Andean potatoes.Mercado 9 De Octubre, 2025
Fruit vendor.
No. 894Fruit vendor.Mercado 9 De Octubre, 2025
Tortilla de choclo.
No. 253Tortilla de choclo.Mercado 10 De Agosto, 2025
Food heroes of Cuenca.
No. 437Food heroes of Cuenca.Cuenca, 2025
Pork, potato and peanut stew.
No. 234Pork, potato and peanut stew.Centro, 2025
Bubbling papas con cuero.
No. 209Bubbling papas con cuero.Centro, 2025
Albacore tuna soup.
No. 845Albacore tuna soup.Mercado 3 De Noviembre, 2025
Street vendor in Centro.
No. 887Street vendor in Centro.Centro, 2025
Jugo de naranjilla.
No. 369Jugo de naranjilla.Mercado 10 De Agosto, 2025

Cuy roasted whole, mote pillo hominy with egg, humitas fresh corn cakes, morocho hot corn drink. Cuenca's mountain kitchen leans on corn and root vegetables.

04  The pantry

  • Mote, hominy corn boiled soft for the daily plate
  • Cuy, guinea pig roasted whole over charcoal
  • Chorizo cuencano, spiced pork sausage grilled at markets
  • Aji criollo, coriander-lime chilli on every table
  • Morocho, dried white corn for the warming winter drink

05  In the kitchen

  • Roasting cuy asado whole over glowing charcoal on a spit
  • Simmering mote pillo hominy with egg and scallion for breakfast
  • Cooking morocho hot corn drink with milk and cinnamon
  • Steaming humitas fresh corn tamales in the leaves
  • Grilling chorizo cuencano and papas over the market braziers

06  Eat this first

  • Cuy asado, whole roasted guinea pig with potato and mote
  • Mote pillo, hominy scramble with egg and scallion
  • Humitas, fresh-corn tamales steamed in their own husks
  • Chorizo con mote, spiced sausage over hominy at the market
  • Morocho, hot corn drink with milk and cinnamon for cold nights
Map of Cuenca

Field Guide

Our curated eating guide to Cuenca. Independent spots chosen by our local tastemakers.

Coming soon

08  Stories

Dispatches from the kitchens of Cuenca.

What happens inside a hammam kitchen

A morning with the cooks who feed the neighbourhood before dawn. Charcoal, dough, the smell of a bakery working its second oven.

The bread that fed the medina

Field report

The bread that fed the medina

Learning to pour mint tea

Field report

Learning to pour mint tea

09  Recipes

A collection of authentic recipes we couldn't leave behind.

More recipes
Ponche Quiteño
Recipe 177Cuenca

Quito eggnog punch

Ponche Quiteño

Egg yolks whipped with sugar into a foam, mounted with hot milk, cinnamon and a shot of aguardiente. Quito's Christmas Eve nightcap.

20 min · Serves 4
Pristiños
Recipe 175Cuenca

Cinnamon-syrup pastries

Pristiños

Fluted rings of fried dough drenched in a panela-and-cinnamon syrup. Ecuador's Christmas Eve dessert, served alongside hot cinnamon chocolate.

1 hr 30 min · Serves 20
Humitas
Recipe 178Cuenca

Steamed fresh corn cakes

Humitas

Fresh corn ground with butter, milk and cheese, wrapped in corn husks and steamed into a soft sweet-savoury cake. Andean afternoon-tea food.

1 hr 30 min · Serves 10
Corviche de Pescado
Recipe 174Cuenca

Fried plantain fish ball

Corviche de Pescado

Green plantain and peanut dough shaped around a spiced fish filling, deep-fried until crackling. Manabí's most iconic street food.

1 hr 30 min · Serves 8
Hornado
Recipe 192Cuenca

Roasted whole pig

Hornado

Whole pig roasted for hours over wood coals, marinated overnight in beer, garlic and achiote. Ecuador's Sunday feast, served with mote, potato patties and a spoon of tangy agrio.

5 hrs · Serves 8
Mote Pillo
Recipe 191Cuenca

Hominy scramble with egg

Mote Pillo

Cooked hominy corn scrambled with eggs, onions and achiote until the kernels turn golden and glossy. Cuenca's breakfast staple, eaten with fresh coffee.

30 min · Serves 4

10  Field Notes

Quick field notes to help you get accustomed to Cuenca.

Market vendor with panama hat.
No. 485Market vendor with panama hat.Mercado 10 De Agosto, 2025
1

Weather

Cool highland climate at 2,500 m. Spring-like year-round (10–20°C). Rainiest February to April. Drier June to September.

2

Currency

The US dollar (USD). Ecuador uses it. Cash is standard. Cards work in mid-range restaurants and hotels. ATMs are common.

3

Language

Spanish. Quechua is heard in the surrounding countryside. English coverage is thin outside tourism.

4

Etiquette

Modest dress at churches. Cuenca is a UNESCO-listed colonial city and takes its heritage seriously. Ask before photographing indigenous women, many prefer not to be photographed.

5

Getting around

The historic centre is walkable and beautiful. The new tram covers the axis of the old town. Taxis are cheap (agree the fare). Cabify works.

6

Prayer

Predominantly Catholic. The New Cathedral's blue domes dominate the skyline. Corpus Christi and Holy Week processions are major citywide observances.