Destination
Cuenca
The story
Morocho is Sierra Ecuador's hot corn drink: cracked white morocho corn (a large-kernel variety native to the Andes) soaked overnight, then simmered slowly with milk, panela, cinnamon and cloves until thick, creamy and almost pudding-textured. Ladled into cups from a big steel jug set on a cart at cold Quito nights, sold with a small dusting of ground cinnamon on top and (traditionally) a packet of small sweet biscuits on the side. As much a snack as a drink; a full glass leaves you full.
Method
Drain the soaked morocho corn and rinse well. Place in a large heavy pot with the water, cinnamon stick, cloves and citrus peel. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a low simmer.
Cook 60 to 75 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the corn kernels have swelled and softened but still hold their shape. The liquid should have thickened slightly and reduced by about a third.
Pour in the milk, panela and raisins if using. Stir well until the panela dissolves.
Simmer on low for another 30 to 40 minutes, stirring often to stop the milk sticking. The morocho should thicken to a creamy, spoonable-but-drinkable consistency (thicker than milk, thinner than porridge).
Stir in the vanilla. Remove the cinnamon stick, cloves and citrus peel. Taste for sweetness; adjust with more panela if needed.
Ladle into warm mugs. Dust generously with ground cinnamon. Serve immediately with a small biscuit or piece of sweet bread on the side.
Tips
- Overnight soak, no shortcuts. Morocho corn is stone hard when dry. An overnight soak in cold water is what allows the two-stage simmer to work in a reasonable time. Skipping the soak triples the cooking time.
- Cracked morocho corn, not whole. Whole morocho is a different (much longer-cooking) ingredient. You want maíz morocho partido (cracked), sold at Latin grocers in the highlands section.
- Panela is essential. Refined white sugar tastes flat here; panela's molasses depth is what gives morocho its characteristic warm, caramelised undertone. Dark muscovado is a decent substitute.
- Stir often when the milk is in. The starchy, milky mixture catches on the base of the pan easily. Regular stirring in the second phase keeps it smooth and stops the milk browning.
- Best served hot. Morocho thickens as it cools and becomes almost pudding-like when cold. Serve straight from the pot; reheat gently with a splash of milk if needed.
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