Welcome to the new home of A Chef's Tour. Bigger, bolder and tastier than ever.

Mumbai

Vendors work with practised speed, butter hisses across scorching griddles and giant pots of curry bubble through the afternoon.

Chole bhature.
No. 364Chole bhature.Mumbai, 2025
“I loved how thoughtfully the tour was curated. Instead of focusing on just a few famous snacks, it gave us a broad introduction to Mumbai's street food scene,”

— Yudi, 2025

01  Food tours

Original food tours, curated with our local tastemakers to showcase the neighbourhood kitchens, markets and family-run eateries that define Mumbai.

Bombay Express
Supper Food TourNo. 001

Bombay Express

Mumbai

US $45(NEW)

Explore Mumbai's masala layers — kokum-sour curries, tandoor smoke and three kitchens on one street.

4 Hours15+ Tastings

02  Meet the tastemakers

The local food experts who help us research, refine and lead every A Chef's Tour.

Pooja Madan Khathuria

head guide

Sunil Chettira

guide

Vrushali Chitale

guide

03  Field archive

Archived photographs from our tours and the Mumbai food scene that tell you what the city actually tastes like.

Traffic at dusk.
No. 659Traffic at dusk.Mumbai, 2025
Paan seller.
No. 316Paan seller.Mumbai, 2025
Kebabs to the grill.
No. 888Kebabs to the grill.Mumbai, 2025
Marigold garlands.
No. 663Marigold garlands.Mumbai, 2025
Bombay grilled sandwich.
No. 138Bombay grilled sandwich.Mumbai, 2025
Pani puri, ragda.
No. 763Pani puri, ragda.Mumbai, 2025
Sugarcane man.
No. 756Sugarcane man.Mumbai, 2025
Sweets counter aunties.
No. 117Sweets counter aunties.Mumbai, 2025
Kyani & Co.
No. 582Kyani & Co.Mumbai, 2025
Alleyway shop.
No. 881Alleyway shop.Mumbai, 2025
Bhendi Bazaar.
No. 940Bhendi Bazaar.Mumbai, 2025
Street-style bread omelette.
No. 082Street-style bread omelette.Mumbai, 2025
Papad on parade.
No. 216Papad on parade.Mumbai, 2025
Batata vada, tawa.
No. 842Batata vada, tawa.Mumbai, 2025
Tearing into pav bhaji.
No. 183Tearing into pav bhaji.Mumbai, 2025
Badshah cold drinks.
No. 251Badshah cold drinks.Mumbai, 2025
Mango falooda.
No. 957Mango falooda.Mumbai, 2025
Kulhad shrikhand.
No. 870Kulhad shrikhand.Mumbai, 2025
Cook at work.
No. 676Cook at work.Mumbai, 2025
Sidewalk siesta.
No. 050Sidewalk siesta.Mumbai, 2025
Dabbawala in training.
No. 968Dabbawala in training.Mumbai, 2025
Muslim tailor.
No. 512Muslim tailor.Mumbai, 2025
Chicken curry.
No. 272Chicken curry.Mumbai, 2025
Potato vada pav.
No. 421Potato vada pav.Mumbai, 2025
Mahalaxmi rooftop.
No. 656Mahalaxmi rooftop.Mumbai, 2025
Kaali-peeli driver.
No. 089Kaali-peeli driver.Mumbai, 2025
Feeding the cow.
No. 190Feeding the cow.Mumbai, 2025
Gujarati thali.
No. 790Gujarati thali.Mumbai, 2025
Papadum on coals.
No. 820Papadum on coals.Mumbai, 2025
Carrying condiments.
No. 481Carrying condiments.Mumbai, 2025
Kerala sadhya.
No. 571Kerala sadhya.Mumbai, 2025

Layers of masala, kokum sour curries, coconut fat, tandoor smoke. Mumbai's Parsi, Konkani and Gujarati kitchens all crowd onto the same street.

04  The pantry

  • Kokum, sun-dried mangosteen rind that carries a clean coastal sourness
  • Coconut, fresh grated flesh and first-press milk in Konkani cooking
  • Garam masala, house-blended warming spices for every curry
  • Vada pav chutneys, dry garlic and green coriander pastes
  • Bombay duck, dried lizardfish crisped hard for a salty snack

05  In the kitchen

  • Layering spice pastes into curries in careful stages
  • Pressing pav buns on a flat tawa with melted butter
  • Simmering seafood in coconut milk soured with kokum
  • Slow-cooking dhansak lentils in the Parsi kitchen tradition
  • Assembling chaat at the roadside for order-by-order snacks

06  Eat this first

  • Vada pav, spiced potato fritter in a soft bun with garlic chutney
  • Pav bhaji, mashed vegetable curry with buttered pav rolls
  • Bombay sandwich, layered chutney and vegetable stack pressed hot
  • Dhansak, Parsi lentil and mutton stew with caramelised brown rice
  • Bhelpuri, puffed-rice chaat tossed with tamarind and green chutney
Map of Mumbai

Field Guide

Our curated eating guide to Mumbai. Independent spots chosen by our local tastemakers.

Coming soon

08  Stories

Dispatches from the kitchens of Mumbai.

10 offbeat things to do in Mumbai

There's more things to do in Mumbai than just the Gateway of India.

Last of the Irani cafes in Mumbai

Field report

Last of the Irani cafes in Mumbai

10  Field Notes

Quick field notes to help you get accustomed to Mumbai.

Bombay supper.
No. 744Bombay supper.Mumbai, 2022
1

Weather

Tropical. Hot and humid year-round, monsoon June to September with heavy rain and occasional flooding, and dry cool winters (November–February, ideal).

2

Currency

The Indian rupee (INR). Cash for auto-rickshaws, chaiwallahs, and street food. Cards for restaurants and hotels. UPI dominates.

3

Language

Marathi is the state language. Hindi and English are both widely spoken. Bombay Hindi is the everyday street mix.

4

Etiquette

Modest dress at religious sites and in older neighbourhoods. Personal space is limited on trains and streets, go with the flow rather than pushing back.

5

Getting around

Local trains carry millions daily. Cheap, fast, and packed (women-only carriages marked). Metros are expanding. Uber and Ola work well. Auto-rickshaws only outside South Mumbai.

6

Prayer

Every faith is represented. Hindu temples, mosques, cathedrals, gurdwaras, fire temples (Parsi), and synagogues all within walking distance of each other in the older areas.