Many Irani cafes in Mumbai can trace their origins to over two centuries ago when religious persecution by invading Islamic armies forced Zoroastrians to leave their native Persia for pastures new.
The displaced diaspora flocked to India in their thousands, with many calling Bombay their home and setting up small businesses to sustain themselves. Given that India was at that time part of the British Empire, these cafes, restaurants and bakeries became crossover points for the various cultures of India, the UK and Iran, creating a truly unique atmosphere of inclusivity.
That eclectic mix of heritages and habits manifested itself not only in the clientele which frequented the cafes, but also in the décor of the places themselves. Characterised by high ceilinged-roofs with dusty chandeliers or rickety fans, ramshackle wooden chairs and tables with marble-topped surfaces, glass jars stuffed full of sweet and savoury treats and portraits of famous figures from all three countries, the locales formed an idiosyncratic and inimitable part of the city's fabric.
However, times change; India gained independence, Bombay became Mumbai and the fortunes fell for the Irani bakery. Mumbai remained as dynamic and multicultural a city as ever, but the inexorable creep of capitalism took its toll on these small, eccentric outfits, as fast food chains and global conglomerates moved in to eat up their share of the market. From the 1950s heyday of the Irani cafe in Mumbai, when the city hosted approximately 550 of them, now just a mere handful (perhaps less than 20) remain.
Irani cafes in Mumbai that are still in operation might be few and far between, but they comprise an unforgettable experience for visitors to the city. Of course, the owners of these cultural hubs form a large part of their appeal.
Given the desperate nature of their ancestors' arrival in India, these Persian immigrants have never forgotten the warm welcome that the city offered to their families and pay homage to it by displaying the same bonhomie to all who enter through their doors, regardless of their colour, creed or social status.
What's more, many have brought with them family recipes passed down through the generations and guarded with fierce pride, making for a truly authentic culinary encounter.
A typical Irani bakery in Mumbai is renowned for its bread, rolls and pastries, while the sweet treats are another unique selling point of these locales, not least for the nostalgic glass jars in which they are displayed. Favourites include nan-khatai (brittle biscuits with a sweet taste and a flaky texture), jeera khari (puff pastry biscuits spiced with cumin) and all other imaginable variations on the biscuit theme.
Meanwhile, the sit-down Irani cafes in Mumbai offer a fuller menu replete with tasty home-cooked dishes from Iran. Some of the more popular choices include kheema pav (minced meat served in a bread roll), dhansak (a spiced lentil dish with meat and/or vegetables), akuri (scrambled eggs and vegetables) and mutton samosas. All of which is, of course, washed down with lashings of paani kam chai, a strong Iranian tea whose name literally means "tea with less water".
