Destination
Kampala
The story
Mandazi is the East African fried doughnut and the classical Kampala breakfast bread. Triangular pieces of yeasted dough scented with cardamom, coconut milk and a whisper of orange or lemon zest are deep-fried until deep golden with a slight crackle on the outside and a tender, sweet-fragrant interior. Sold at every Kampala tea shop and roadside stall from 6am to 10am, at every household breakfast table, and at every Muslim iftar celebration during Ramadan. Eaten dunked in Ugandan chai (a milky spiced tea) or with a small bowl of ebinyebwa peanut sauce for those who want it savoury.
Method
In a small bowl, whisk warm water with 1 tsp of the sugar. Sprinkle yeast over. Rest 5 minutes until foamy.
In a large bowl, whisk remaining sugar, flour, salt, cardamom and cinnamon if using. Add the yeast mixture, egg, coconut milk, oil and zest if using. Mix with a wooden spoon then knead by hand 8 minutes until smooth, elastic and slightly tacky.
Place the dough in an oiled bowl, cover with a damp towel, and rest in a warm spot 60 to 90 minutes until doubled.
Punch down the dough. Divide into 3 balls. Roll each ball into a 20cm circle about 1cm thick. Cut each circle into 8 wedges. You should have 24 wedges.
Arrange wedges on a floured tray with 2cm between each. Cover with a damp towel and rest 20 to 30 minutes until visibly puffed.
Warm the oil in a deep heavy pot to 170C. A test piece of dough should sizzle and rise within 5 seconds.
Fry 4 to 6 wedges at a time for 90 seconds on the first side (they will puff and float), then flip and fry 60 seconds on the second side until deep golden all over.
Lift onto a wire rack. Serve warm with hot chai. Best within 4 hours. For breakfast: split each mandazi and fill with butter and jam, or drizzle with honey. Reheat briefly on a dry pan or in a low oven; do not microwave.
Tips
- Fresh-ground cardamom. This is the flavour marker. Pre-ground cardamom loses its aromatic oils within a month. Grind fresh from green pods.
- Coconut milk in the dough. Full-fat coconut milk gives mandazi its specific tender-rich crumb. Do not substitute regular milk.
- 170C oil, not hotter. Hotter and the outside burns before the inside cooks.
- Serve warm. Mandazi at their best are within 30 minutes of frying.
- Second rise is not optional. The 20-minute rest after cutting gives you the classical puff.
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