Welcome to the new home of A Chef's Tour. Bigger, bolder and tastier than ever.

Xi'an

Fresh noodles slap against well-floured benches, cumin perfumes sizzling lamb and flatbreads emerge warm from blazing ovens.

Salting Atlantic sardines
No. 042Salting Atlantic sardinesXi'an, 2026, 5.20pm

01  Food tours

Original food tours, curated with our local tastemakers to showcase the neighbourhood kitchens, markets and family-run eateries that define Xi'an.

No tours listed for Xi'an yet — check back soon.

03  Field archive

Archived photographs from our tours and the Xi'an food scene that tell you what the city actually tastes like.

Salting Atlantic sardines
No. 042Salting Atlantic sardinesBab Doukkala, 2026
Mint tea, poured slowly
No. 118Mint tea, poured slowlyDjemaa el-Fnaa, 2025
Charcoal smoke and tagine
No. 273Charcoal smoke and tagineMellah, 2024
Spice market, dusk
No. 057Spice market, duskRahba Kedima, 2026
Slow-cooked lamb, seven hours
No. 199Slow-cooked lamb, seven hoursRiad Zitoun, 2025
The souk before opening
No. 314The souk before openingSouk Semmarine, 2024
Flatbreads, still warm
No. 086Flatbreads, still warmBab Doukkala, 2025
Cumin and clay
No. 245Cumin and clayKasbah, 2026
Kitchen off the medina
No. 167Kitchen off the medinaDerb Dabachi, 2024
Riad courtyard, morning prep
No. 093Riad courtyard, morning prepSidi Mimoun, 2025

Hand pulled biang biang noodles, roujiamo lamb burgers, Persian cumin spice, Shaanxi black vinegar. Xi'an still cooks along the old Silk Road.

04  The pantry

  • Cumin, brought along the Silk Road and used generously with lamb
  • Hand-pulled noodles, wheat dough stretched for biang biang
  • Black vinegar, sharp Shaanxi vinegar for the dipping bowl
  • Chinese leek, fragrant greens folded into lamb dumplings
  • Chilli oil, sizzled over fresh chilli flake for the aromatic finish

05  In the kitchen

  • Stretching biang biang mian noodles by hand for wide belt strips
  • Grilling yang rou chuan'r lamb skewers over long charcoal troughs
  • Baking bing flatbreads in tandoor-style clay ovens
  • Simmering yang rou pao mo lamb broth to be crumbled with bread
  • Rolling roujiamo lamb burgers in split baked buns

06  Eat this first

  • Biang biang mian, wide belt noodles under chilli oil and vinegar
  • Roujiamo, cumin-spiced lamb stuffed into a crisp flatbread bun
  • Yang rou pao mo, lamb soup poured over hand-crumbled flatbread
  • Liang pi, cold wheat-skin noodles with sesame paste and chilli
  • Yang rou chuan'r, cumin-dusted lamb skewers grilled over charcoal
Map of Xi'an

Field Guide

Our curated eating guide to Xi'an. Independent spots chosen by our local tastemakers.

Coming soon

08  Stories

Dispatches from the kitchens of Xi'an.

What happens inside a hammam kitchen

A morning with the cooks who feed the neighbourhood before dawn. Charcoal, dough, the smell of a bakery working its second oven.

The bread that fed the medina

Field report

The bread that fed the medina

Learning to pour mint tea

Field report

Learning to pour mint tea

10  Field Notes

Quick field notes to help you get accustomed to Xi'an.

Field notes
No. 189Carving roasted mechoui lambMedina
1

Weather

Continental — hot, dusty summers (35°C-plus) and cold, dry winters (near freezing). Spring and autumn are the best months for the city walls and warriors.

2

Currency

The Chinese yuan (CNY); WeChat Pay and Alipay dominate — cards rarely used at street level. Set up mobile payment before you land.

3

Language

Mandarin Chinese is universal; the local Xi'an dialect is heard on the streets. English coverage is thin outside tour hotels; translation apps essential.

4

Etiquette

Modest dress in the Muslim Quarter and in mosques — cover shoulders and knees. Bargain gently in the market stalls; walk the ancient city walls at sunrise for the atmosphere.

5

Getting around

The metro is fast, cheap, and covers the main sights; bike-share (Meituan) is huge and the walled centre is flat. Didi is the ride app of choice.

6

Prayer

Officially secular. The Great Mosque in the Muslim Quarter is one of the oldest and most beautiful in China; five calls to prayer here mark the day quietly.