Welcome to the new home of A Chef's Tour. Bigger, bolder and tastier than ever.

Osaka

Okonomiyaki sizzles on iron hotplates, skewers crisp in bubbling oil and clouds of steam escape from bustling street kitchens.

Takoyaki griddle.
No. 206Takoyaki griddle.Osaka, 2025

01  Food tours

Original food tours, curated with our local tastemakers to showcase the neighbourhood kitchens, markets and family-run eateries that define Osaka.

Kuromon Kitchens
Lunch Food TourNo. 001

Kuromon Kitchens

Osaka

US $85(NEW)

A curated food tour through the streets, markets and family kitchens of the destination — flavour by flavour.

4 HoursMultiple Tastings
Osaka Eats
Supper Food TourNo. 002

Osaka Eats

Osaka

US $85(NEW)

A curated food tour through the streets, markets and family kitchens of the destination — flavour by flavour.

4 HoursMultiple Tastings

03  Field archive

Archived photographs from our tours and the Osaka food scene that tell you what the city actually tastes like.

Osaka udon.
No. 972Osaka udon.Osaka, 2025
Kushikatsu mascot.
No. 581Kushikatsu mascot.Osaka, 2025
Grilled tako.
No. 705Grilled tako.Osaka, 2025
Nigiri five ways.
No. 034Nigiri five ways.Osaka, 2025
Shinsaibashi crowds.
No. 306Shinsaibashi crowds.Osaka, 2025
Tako lantern.
No. 607Tako lantern.Osaka, 2025
Knife sharpener.
No. 961Knife sharpener.Osaka, 2025
Takoyaki..
No. 370Takoyaki..Osaka, 2025
Purin cup.
No. 754Purin cup.Osaka, 2025
Wagyu skewers.
No. 193Wagyu skewers.Osaka, 2025
Izakaya kanpai.
No. 602Izakaya kanpai.Osaka, 2025
Tsutenkaku view.
No. 427Tsutenkaku view.Osaka, 2025
Sushi and sashimi.
No. 179Sushi and sashimi.Osaka, 2025
Wagyu nigiri.
No. 708Wagyu nigiri.Osaka, 2025
Ramen noodles.
No. 727Ramen noodles.Osaka, 2025
Kushikatsu spread.
No. 282Kushikatsu spread.Osaka, 2025
Shrine ema plaques.
No. 158Shrine ema plaques.Osaka, 2025
Glico man.
No. 667Glico man.Osaka, 2025
Seafood hotpot.
No. 540Seafood hotpot.Osaka, 2025
Market dishes.
No. 984Market dishes.Osaka, 2025
Toro maki.
No. 438Toro maki.Osaka, 2025
Wagyu on teppan.
No. 008Wagyu on teppan.Osaka, 2025
Melonpan turtle.
No. 235Melonpan turtle.Osaka, 2025

Takoyaki batter crisped on a hot dome, okonomiyaki griddled to order, kushikatsu straight from the fryer, kitsune udon in dashi. Osaka is Japan's most gluttonous city.

04  The pantry

  • Dashi, the umami-rich stock that carries every Osakan sauce
  • Takoyaki batter, wheat and dashi mixed to a loose pancake
  • Cabbage, shredded fine and folded into okonomiyaki
  • Kansai white miso, sweeter and lighter than Tokyo's red
  • Beni shoga, red pickled ginger used generously as a topping

05  In the kitchen

  • Turning takoyaki in cast-iron half-spheres with a metal pick
  • Griddling okonomiyaki to order on a flat teppan
  • Deep-frying kushikatsu to a shattering crust for one-dip sauce
  • Simmering doteyaki beef sinew in sweet white miso
  • Assembling oshizushi pressed sushi in wooden boxes

06  Eat this first

  • Takoyaki, molten octopus balls topped with bonito flakes and sauce
  • Okonomiyaki, Osaka-style savoury pancake with pork belly and cabbage
  • Kushikatsu, deep-fried skewers dipped in a communal sauce
  • Kitsune udon, thick noodles in dashi topped with sweet fried tofu
  • Battera, pressed mackerel sushi wrapped in kombu
Map of Osaka

Field Guide

Our curated eating guide to Osaka. Independent spots chosen by our local tastemakers.

Coming soon

08  Stories

Dispatches from the kitchens of Osaka.

What happens inside a hammam kitchen

A morning with the cooks who feed the neighbourhood before dawn. Charcoal, dough, the smell of a bakery working its second oven.

The bread that fed the medina

Field report

The bread that fed the medina

Learning to pour mint tea

Field report

Learning to pour mint tea

10  Field Notes

Quick field notes to help you get accustomed to Osaka.

Seafood supper.
No. 137Seafood supper.Osaka, 2025
1

Weather

Humid subtropical. Hot, sticky summers (33°C-plus), mild winters (5–10°C), and short spring / autumn windows. April and November are the best months.

2

Currency

The Japanese yen (JPY). Cash still preferred in small shops, though cards and IC card payments are more common than in Kyoto. IC cards (Icoca, Suica) work on all transport.

3

Language

Japanese, with the famously casual Osaka dialect. English coverage is limited outside major hotels. A friendly attitude and gestures go a long way.

4

Etiquette

Osakans are famously warmer and more informal than Tokyoites but the core rules still apply. Quiet on trains, no eating while walking, no tipping.

5

Getting around

The metro is fast, cheap, and easy. Signage is bilingual and IC cards cover it all. JR trains link the region including Kyoto (15 minutes) and Kobe (25 minutes).

6

Prayer

Buddhist and Shinto rhythms shape the calendar; visit Shitennoji or Sumiyoshi Taisha to see it in daily practice. The city is largely secular in day-to-day life.