Destination
Arequipa
The story
Peruvian torrejas are the Andean answer to Spanish torrijas (French toast, essentially): golden-puffed fritters made from a batter of cornmeal, eggs, milk, sugar and a whisper of anise, deep-fried until they puff and turn deep gold, then dipped briefly into a warm cinnamon-clove-orange syrup and served on plates while still warm. Made especially at Christmas and Semana Santa (Holy Week) in Cusco, Arequipa and Puno, torrejas are the Peruvian highland dessert that hasn't quite left the household — you rarely see them in restaurants, but every Andean grandmother makes them for family gatherings.
Method
In a large bowl, whisk together cornmeal, flour, sugar, salt, baking powder, aniseed and cinnamon. In a separate bowl, whisk eggs, milk, melted butter and vanilla. Combine wet with dry, whisking to a smooth batter thick enough to hold on a spoon.
Cover the batter and rest 15 minutes so the cornmeal fully hydrates.
Combine sugar, water, cinnamon sticks, cloves and orange quarters in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, cook 15 to 20 minutes until slightly thickened (should coat the back of a spoon). Stir in lemon juice. Keep warm.
Warm oil in a deep heavy pot to 170C.
Using two teaspoons, drop small mounds of batter (about 2 tbsp each) into the hot oil, 5 or 6 at a time. Fry 2 minutes on the first side; they'll puff into small balls. Flip and fry 90 seconds on the second side until deep golden all over.
Lift the fried torrejas onto a wire rack (not paper). Continue with the rest of the batter.
While the torrejas are still warm, dip each into the warm syrup for 5 to 10 seconds, coating both sides. Lift onto a serving plate.
Arrange torrejas on a platter. Pour any remaining syrup over them. Dust with extra ground cinnamon and scatter with chopped nuts if using. Serve immediately, still warm.
Tips
- Cornmeal is the marker. Peruvian torrejas are made with harina de maíz (fine cornmeal or masa harina). Fine polenta is a close substitute. Regular flour alone gives you plain fritters.
- 170C oil. A thermometer is worth using. Cooler gives you greasy fritters; hotter burns the outside before the inside cooks.
- Short syrup dip. Ten seconds is enough for the fritter to absorb sweetness while staying puffed. Longer and they go soggy.
- Serve warm. Torrejas at their best are still warm from the fryer. Reheating cold ones on a dry pan for 30 seconds a side is a decent recovery.
- Great for Christmas breakfast. In Andean Peru, torrejas are the traditional Christmas Eve or Day breakfast dessert. Make a big batch, serve with hot chocolate on the side.
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