Destination
Antalya
The story
Künefe is Turkey's most beloved warm cheese-filled pastry and the pride of the southern city of Antakya (ancient Antioch). Kadayıf, a shredded phyllo-like pastry, is chopped fine and pressed into a shallow copper pan with melted clarified butter. A layer of unsalted white cheese (traditionally hatay peyniri or nabulsi, similar to salted mozzarella that has been de-salted by soaking) is layered on top. More buttered kadayıf goes over. The whole thing is fried in a wide flat pan over a slow charcoal fire (or on a stovetop) until both sides are deep golden and the cheese has melted inside. Flipped onto a serving plate, drenched in a hot lemon syrup, and dusted with crushed pistachios. Served warm with a scoop of kaymak (Turkish clotted cream) on top. The Antakya tradition is to eat künefe still bubbling hot, with the cheese pulling in long strings when you cut into it.
Method
In a small saucepan, combine sugar, water, lemon juice and lemon peel. Bring to a boil, then simmer 10 minutes until slightly thickened. The syrup should coat the back of a spoon in a thin layer. Cool to warm but not cold; the classical technique pours warm syrup over hot künefe.
Rinse the mozzarella under cold water and soak in a bowl of cold water for 30 minutes to remove any salt. Drain, pat dry, and either shred or grate. Reserve.
Cut the kadayıf pastry into short lengths (5cm) with kitchen scissors. Place in a bowl and pull apart the strands so they are loose. Pour the melted clarified butter over. Toss thoroughly so every strand is coated in butter.
Divide the buttered kadayıf in half. Press half firmly into each 22cm pan in an even layer, covering the base. Spread the cheese in an even layer on top of the kadayıf. Cover the cheese with the remaining kadayıf, pressed firmly.
Place each pan over medium heat. Cook 8 to 10 minutes, pressing down occasionally with a spatula, until the base is deep golden brown and crackly.
Slide the künefe onto a plate. Invert the pan back over it and flip so the uncooked side is down. Return to the pan.
Cook another 6 to 8 minutes until the second side is also deep golden.
Slide the finished künefe onto a warm plate. Pour warm syrup slowly over the top so it soaks in. Immediately scatter with crushed pistachios and top with a spoon of kaymak. Serve hot with Turkish tea. Best within 15 minutes of finishing.
Tips
- Kadayıf, not phyllo. Kadayıf is a specific shredded pastry (looks like thin fine noodles). Regular phyllo is a substitute but the texture is different.
- Unsalted cheese. Turkish künefe uses specifically salt-free cheese so the dessert is sweet, not savoury. Rinse and soak salted mozzarella.
- Warm syrup over hot pastry. This is the key. Cold syrup on hot pastry gives you soggy künefe.
- Serve immediately. This is a hot dessert; letting it sit ruins the crackly-crisp exterior.
- Pistachios and kaymak are essential. Do not skip either. The green pistachio and white cream are the classical Turkish visual signature.
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