Destination
Kampala
The story
Muchomo is the Luganda word for grilled meat, and chicken muchomo is Kampala's most-shared street protein. Cuts of chicken (usually thighs and drumsticks, sometimes half birds) are marinated in a paste of onion, garlic, ginger, salt, black pepper, curry powder and a splash of oil, then grilled hard over glowing charcoal until the skin is dark charred and the meat is juicy. Served on a plate or paper with boiled cassava batons, sliced avocado, a chunk of grilled maize and a squeeze of fresh lime. Sold at every Kampala evening food stall from Nakivubo to Nakawa markets, and at every countryside truck stop.
Method
Blend onion, garlic, ginger, curry powder, cumin, paprika, cayenne, black pepper, salt, oil and lime juice in a food processor to a smooth paste.
Rub the marinade all over the chicken pieces, working it under the skin where possible. Refrigerate 4 to 24 hours.
Toss all salsa ingredients in a bowl. Rest 20 minutes for the flavours to meld.
Heat a charcoal grill to medium coals (white ashy but not screaming hot). Chicken skin burns quickly on very hot coals; medium heat gives you time for the meat to cook through.
Lay the chicken pieces skin-side down. Cook 8 minutes without moving. Turn and cook another 20 to 25 minutes, flipping every 5 minutes and basting with any remaining marinade. Total grill time is about 30 to 35 minutes until the internal temperature at the thickest point reads 75C.
Add corn cobs to the grill in the last 10 minutes; turn frequently. Boil cassava separately.
Rest the chicken 5 minutes on a wooden board.
Arrange grilled chicken on a large platter with cassava, grilled corn, sliced avocado, tomato and red onion. Place kachumbari in a small bowl on the side. Serve with lime wedges, chili sauce and cold beer. Eat with hands.
Tips
- Bone-in, skin-on chicken. Boneless breast dries out on the grill. Thighs, drumsticks and wings are the classical Ugandan cuts.
- Medium coals, not screaming hot. Slow cook gives you cooked-through meat with dark charred skin. Very hot coals burn the outside before the meat is safe.
- Overnight marinade. The Ugandan flavours need time to penetrate the meat.
- Kachumbari is essential. The fresh tomato-onion-lime salsa cuts the richness of the grilled chicken. Every Ugandan muchomo joint serves it.
- Serve with cassava, not French fries. Boiled cassava is the classical Ugandan starch. Do the classical version.
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