Welcome to the new home of A Chef's Tour. Bigger, bolder and tastier than ever.

Shanghai

Soup dumplings billow with steam, soy and ginger perfume bustling kitchens and fresh noodles are stretched with practised hands.

Salting Atlantic sardines
No. 042Salting Atlantic sardinesShanghai, 2026, 5.20pm

01  Food tours

Original food tours, curated with our local tastemakers to showcase the neighbourhood kitchens, markets and family-run eateries that define Shanghai.

No tours listed for Shanghai yet — check back soon.

03  Field archive

Archived photographs from our tours and the Shanghai food scene that tell you what the city actually tastes like.

Salting Atlantic sardines
No. 042Salting Atlantic sardinesBab Doukkala, 2026
Mint tea, poured slowly
No. 118Mint tea, poured slowlyDjemaa el-Fnaa, 2025
Charcoal smoke and tagine
No. 273Charcoal smoke and tagineMellah, 2024
Spice market, dusk
No. 057Spice market, duskRahba Kedima, 2026
Slow-cooked lamb, seven hours
No. 199Slow-cooked lamb, seven hoursRiad Zitoun, 2025
The souk before opening
No. 314The souk before openingSouk Semmarine, 2024
Flatbreads, still warm
No. 086Flatbreads, still warmBab Doukkala, 2025
Cumin and clay
No. 245Cumin and clayKasbah, 2026
Kitchen off the medina
No. 167Kitchen off the medinaDerb Dabachi, 2024
Riad courtyard, morning prep
No. 093Riad courtyard, morning prepSidi Mimoun, 2025

Sweet and savoury red braised pork, xiao long bao filled with broth, drunken chicken in Shaoxing wine, hairy crab in autumn. Shanghai cooks the softest, sweetest table in China.

04  The pantry

  • Shaoxing wine, amber rice wine that flavours every Shanghai dish
  • Rock sugar, hard cane sugar for the city's signature red braises
  • Hairy crab, autumn delicacy eaten with vinegar and ginger
  • Chinese black vinegar, sharp and aged for dumpling dipping
  • Fresh soy skin, layered into countless steamed and braised dishes

05  In the kitchen

  • Slow-braising hongshao rou pork belly in dark soy and rock sugar
  • Pleating xiao long bao soup dumplings with eighteen folds each
  • Marinating zui ji drunken chicken in Shaoxing wine for days
  • Steaming hairy crab whole with ginger and dark vinegar
  • Sweetening sauces with rock sugar for the local tang cu profile

06  Eat this first

  • Xiao long bao, soup dumplings pinched shut around pork and hot broth
  • Hongshao rou, red-braised pork belly glossy with rock sugar
  • Sheng jian bao, pan-fried pork buns with a crisp base and juicy filling
  • Zui ji, cold drunken chicken marinated in Shaoxing wine
  • Da zha xie, hairy crabs steamed and eaten with black vinegar
Map of Shanghai

Field Guide

Our curated eating guide to Shanghai. Independent spots chosen by our local tastemakers.

Coming soon

08  Stories

Dispatches from the kitchens of Shanghai.

What happens inside a hammam kitchen

A morning with the cooks who feed the neighbourhood before dawn. Charcoal, dough, the smell of a bakery working its second oven.

The bread that fed the medina

Field report

The bread that fed the medina

Learning to pour mint tea

Field report

Learning to pour mint tea

10  Field Notes

Quick field notes to help you get accustomed to Shanghai.

Field notes
No. 189Carving roasted mechoui lambMedina
1

Weather

Humid subtropical — hot, sticky summers (32°C-plus) with typhoon risk in late summer, and cold, damp winters (near freezing but rarely snowing). Spring and autumn are the sweet spots.

2

Currency

The Chinese yuan (CNY); WeChat Pay and Alipay dominate — cards are rarely used at street level. Set up mobile payment before you land.

3

Language

Mandarin Chinese is universal; Shanghainese is the local dialect. English is more common than in most Chinese cities, especially in the former French Concession.

4

Etiquette

Cosmopolitan and business-forward — accept business cards with two hands and don't rush the exchange. Don't stick chopsticks upright in rice.

5

Getting around

The metro is huge, cheap, and easy to navigate — signage is bilingual. Didi is the local ride app; the Maglev links Pudong Airport in eight minutes.

6

Prayer

Officially secular. Jing'an Temple, Longhua Temple, and the Xiaotaoyuan Mosque all sit in the city centre and welcome respectful visitors.