Welcome to the new home of A Chef's Tour. Bigger, bolder and tastier than ever.

Kandy

Freshly grated coconut disappears into fragrant curries, hoppers crisp around the edges and cinnamon perfumes gently simmering pots.

Salting Atlantic sardines
No. 042Salting Atlantic sardinesKandy, 2026, 5.20pm

01  Food tours

Original food tours, curated with our local tastemakers to showcase the neighbourhood kitchens, markets and family-run eateries that define Kandy.

No tours listed for Kandy yet — check back soon.

03  Field archive

Archived photographs from our tours and the Kandy food scene that tell you what the city actually tastes like.

Salting Atlantic sardines
No. 042Salting Atlantic sardinesBab Doukkala, 2026
Mint tea, poured slowly
No. 118Mint tea, poured slowlyDjemaa el-Fnaa, 2025
Charcoal smoke and tagine
No. 273Charcoal smoke and tagineMellah, 2024
Spice market, dusk
No. 057Spice market, duskRahba Kedima, 2026
Slow-cooked lamb, seven hours
No. 199Slow-cooked lamb, seven hoursRiad Zitoun, 2025
The souk before opening
No. 314The souk before openingSouk Semmarine, 2024
Flatbreads, still warm
No. 086Flatbreads, still warmBab Doukkala, 2025
Cumin and clay
No. 245Cumin and clayKasbah, 2026
Kitchen off the medina
No. 167Kitchen off the medinaDerb Dabachi, 2024
Riad courtyard, morning prep
No. 093Riad courtyard, morning prepSidi Mimoun, 2025

Hill country rice and curry, kiribath at Sinhala new year, kokis and konda kavum, wambatu moju pickled aubergine. Kandy cooks with more restraint than coastal Colombo but no less depth.

04  The pantry

  • Kiribath, coconut-milk rice cooked for auspicious mornings
  • Jaggery, palm sugar from Kithul palms in the surrounding hills
  • Ambarella, tart green fruit for chutneys and pickles
  • Coconut oil, cold-pressed for the hill-country kitchen
  • Kithul treacle, dark syrup from tapped palm flowers

05  In the kitchen

  • Pressing kiribath milk rice into diamonds for the morning plate
  • Tapping kithul palms for treacle used with curd
  • Slow-cooking polos young jackfruit into a dark curry
  • Grinding fresh coconut sambol on a Kandyan grinding stone
  • Layering lamprais rice packets and roasting them in banana leaf

06  Eat this first

  • Kiribath, coconut milk rice pressed into diamonds and served with sambol
  • Polos curry, young jackfruit slow-cooked in dark spice
  • Curd and treacle, thick buffalo curd drizzled with kithul syrup
  • Lamprais, banana-leaf parcel of rice, curries and frikkadels
  • Wambatu moju, sweet-and-sour aubergine pickle for the rice plate
Map of Kandy

Field Guide

Our curated eating guide to Kandy. Independent spots chosen by our local tastemakers.

Coming soon

08  Stories

Dispatches from the kitchens of Kandy.

What happens inside a hammam kitchen

A morning with the cooks who feed the neighbourhood before dawn. Charcoal, dough, the smell of a bakery working its second oven.

The bread that fed the medina

Field report

The bread that fed the medina

Learning to pour mint tea

Field report

Learning to pour mint tea

10  Field Notes

Quick field notes to help you get accustomed to Kandy.

Field notes
No. 189Carving roasted mechoui lambMedina
1

Weather

Cool hill climate — mild year-round (18–28°C), rainiest October to January. The Perahera festival in July / August is a highlight; book far ahead.

2

Currency

The Sri Lankan rupee (LKR); cash almost everywhere; cards in upscale hotels and restaurants.

3

Language

Sinhala; some Tamil; English is widely spoken in tourism.

4

Etiquette

The Temple of the Tooth is strict — cover shoulders and knees, no hats, no photographs of Buddha images with your back to them. Remove shoes at the entrance.

5

Getting around

The centre is walkable; tuk-tuks and PickMe cover the hills. The scenic train to Ella is one of the world's great rail journeys — book second-class reserved for the views.

6

Prayer

Deeply Theravada Buddhist — the Temple of the Tooth is one of Buddhism's holiest sites. The evening puja (three times daily) draws pilgrims from across the country.