Welcome to the new home of A Chef's Tour. Bigger, bolder and tastier than ever.

Jodhpur

Millet breads toast over open flames, spices bloom in sizzling ghee and fragrant lentils bubble inside well-worn brass pots.

Blue doorway.
No. 287Blue doorway.Jodhpur, 2026

01  Food tours

Original food tours, curated with our local tastemakers to showcase the neighbourhood kitchens, markets and family-run eateries that define Jodhpur.

Marwari Meals
Lunch Food TourNo. 001

Marwari Meals

Jodhpur

—(NEW)

A curated food tour through the streets, markets and family kitchens of the destination — flavour by flavour.

4 Hours15+ Tastings
Blue City Bites
Supper Food TourNo. 002

Blue City Bites

Jodhpur

US $39(NEW)

A curated food tour through the streets, markets and family kitchens of the destination — flavour by flavour.

4 Hours15+ Tastings

03  Field archive

Archived photographs from our tours and the Jodhpur food scene that tell you what the city actually tastes like.

Frying jalebis.
No. 565Frying jalebis.Jodhpur, 2026
The Blue City.
No. 102The Blue City.Jodhpur, 2026
Creamy raj kachori.
No. 177Creamy raj kachori.Jodhpur, 2026
Ghanta Ghar Jodhpur.
No. 028Ghanta Ghar Jodhpur.Jodhpur, 2026
The food heroes of Jodhpur.
No. 270The food heroes of Jodhpur.Jodhpur, 2026
Gulab jamun.
No. 461Gulab jamun.Jodhpur, 2026
View over the Blue City.
No. 809View over the Blue City.Jodhpur, 2026
Pouring masala chai.
No. 400Pouring masala chai.Jodhpur, 2026
Old town doorway.
No. 639Old town doorway.Jodhpur, 2026
Govind gatta dumplings.
No. 902Govind gatta dumplings.Jodhpur, 2026
A morning prayer.
No. 571A morning prayer.Jodhpur, 2026
Moveable food cart.
No. 405Moveable food cart.Jodhpur, 2026
Rajasthani honeycomb cake.
No. 629Rajasthani honeycomb cake.Jodhpur, 2026
The food heroes of Jodhpur.
No. 355The food heroes of Jodhpur.Jodhpur, 2026
Yogurt dahi vada.
No. 035Yogurt dahi vada.Jodhpur, 2026
Morning tea break.
No. 300Morning tea break.Jodhpur, 2026
Stuffed chilli fritter.
No. 311Stuffed chilli fritter.Jodhpur, 2026

Mirchi vada stuffed with masala potato, mawa kachori, mohan maas, gatte ki sabzi. The desert kitchen leans on gram flour, dried chilli and yoghurt.

04  The pantry

  • Mathania chilli, sun-dried red chilli for desert cooking
  • Mawa, reduced milk solids that go into every sweet
  • Besan, gram flour used for gatte and mirchi vada
  • Yoghurt, thick curd used as gravy base in place of water
  • Dried mango, amchur for the sour edge

05  In the kitchen

  • Deep-frying mirchi vada stuffed with masala potato
  • Reducing mawa for hours to make dense sweet fillings
  • Slow-cooking mohan maas in yoghurt and milk with dry fruit
  • Rolling gatte gram-flour dumplings for spiced yoghurt curry
  • Dry-frying ker sangri desert beans in mustard oil

06  Eat this first

  • Mirchi vada, potato-stuffed chilli fritter dipped in tomato chutney
  • Mawa kachori, syrup-soaked fried pastry filled with reduced milk
  • Mohan maas, royal mutton curry cooked in milk with dry fruit
  • Pyaaz kachori, spiced onion-stuffed fried pastry
  • Makhaniya lassi, saffron and cardamom yoghurt drink topped with cream
Map of Jodhpur

Field Guide

Our curated eating guide to Jodhpur. Independent spots chosen by our local tastemakers.

Coming soon

08  Stories

Dispatches from the kitchens of Jodhpur.

What happens inside a hammam kitchen

A morning with the cooks who feed the neighbourhood before dawn. Charcoal, dough, the smell of a bakery working its second oven.

The bread that fed the medina

Field report

The bread that fed the medina

Learning to pour mint tea

Field report

Learning to pour mint tea

10  Field Notes

Quick field notes to help you get accustomed to Jodhpur.

Lunch cook.
No. 783Lunch cook.Jodhpur, 2026
1

Weather

Desert climate. Hot summers (45°C-plus in May–June) with occasional dust storms, cool nights in winter (5°C in January), and short pleasant spring and autumn windows.

2

Currency

The Indian rupee (INR). Cash for auto-rickshaws and markets; cards for restaurants and hotels. UPI dominates for locals.

3

Language

Hindi and Marwari. English is spoken in tourism.

4

Etiquette

Modest dress at temples and in the old city. Cover shoulders and knees at Mehrangarh Fort's Jain and Hindu shrines. Ask before photographing people.

5

Getting around

The old city (Blue City) is atmospheric on foot but its lanes are narrow. Auto-rickshaws are cheap. Uber and Ola both work in the newer city.

6

Prayer

Deeply Hindu with strong Jain and Muslim communities. Temple bells and calls to prayer both mark the day. Ask before entering active shrines.